maiden voyage

[melcardona]

And...if you get the new parts, you might have to do the job yourself. If the d/s shop has any older techs, they can refuse to fool with it too!!
There is a modern type conversion joiunt but a new d/s will cost ya!

no fret bb.....im entering 50 yrs of trubleshooting/repairing/rebuilding/replacing..on everything from stinkin lawnmowers to bigtrucks to hevy eqmp/oilfield rigging..incl outboards ..im at the age where im thinking im fixing something for the first time...only to remember..oh my...ive done this before...im not the best..and i dont know it all..i speak a language of ol hands.....JUST BECAUSE YOU NEVER DID IT..DOES NOT MEAN YOU CANT...my last 13 yrs paying into the system..was as a hs shop teacher...old school of course..get those stinkin laptops out of hear...and every phone gos into this box when you walk in.....or it gos into a vice and i will teach a lession on leverage and crushing power....was born with dyslexia ...i let my students fix all crap spelling as like some members hear feel its necessary to cut others to feel big....i could care less...not once...from ny to ca to fl to alaska to canada to asia and europe has spelling ever made me more more money or less money.......yes bb.....ill do it my self!!! as for the techs of today..they have there place...but all my boys heard me many times.....a true mechanic is not a parts changer..we rebuild/repair when we can...never tell a customer you need this ..when your testing does not back you up...you will always make more money being a honest mechanic then a hack that just throws parts untill its fixed....guard your comback ratio....it is the true measure of being a top hand....fact is bb.....old guys that no longer want to mess with some stuff is ok..im getting there my self..i did not rebuild/recover the buckets seats.....just did not feel like it....200 well spent....mel out

 

[barbee6043]

Just saying,, finding a driveshaft shop that wants to fool with that ball/trunnion joint can be a search, at least around here. But like RRR said, they are plenty strong when in good condition.

 

[slantsixdan]

I agree that the shudder-up-to-30 is the ball & trunnion front U-joint telling on itself. Can't recommend putting money-effort-time into rebuilding the B&T U-joint at this late date. The housing (trunnion) itself is probably worn, and now you're talking Money. Better and more future-proof: convert to a cross-and-roller front U-joint as described here.

 

[melcardona]

I agree that the shudder-up-to-30 is the ball & trunnion front U-joint telling on itself. Can't recommend putting money-effort-time into rebuilding the B&T U-joint at this late date. The housing (trunnion) itself is probably worn, and now you're talking Money. Better and more future-proof: convert to a cross-and-roller front U-joint as described here.

you could be right??? after i take it all apart ill know....hopfully no pitting and will clean up ok....car only has 45 k miles on it sitting since early 2ks.....might luck out?? but tks for that front joint info...may come in handy!!!!!

 

[RustyRatRod]

I agree that the shudder-up-to-30 is the ball & trunnion front U-joint telling on itself. Can't recommend putting money-effort-time into rebuilding the B&T U-joint at this late date. The housing (trunnion) itself is probably worn, and now you're talking Money. Better and more future-proof: convert to a cross-and-roller front U-joint as described here.

That's a nice conversion. I had it in the back of my mind, but I didn't remember where that article was. Now I'll bookmark it. Thank you kindly!

 

[Bewy]

Yup, had the same shudder on my 61 Dodge when the ball & trunnion wore. I could not find a new one here at that time. So I spaced the housing back by using 3/8" spacers. Fixed the shudder & drove it like that for a couple of years.

 

[melcardona]

Yup, had the same shudder on my 61 Dodge when the ball & trunnion wore. I could not find a new one here at that time. So I spaced the housing back by using 3/8" spacers. Fixed the shudder & drove it like that for a couple of years.

the things i never knew..in 2018..when resurching my parts list to build the 41 ply p11 custom coup...i was happily shocked..mopar was built in the land down under... s. america and africa....and maybe a few more...i had no idea...had great chats with gents from all over...its a nasty 52 deg this morning..burrrrr sorry to the northen guys i know you would still be out in your tees...me..ill wait till weds when its in the mid 70s to take the driveline out.....pantywaist yes but i earnd it.....

 

[melcardona]

I agree that the shudder-up-to-30 is the ball & trunnion front U-joint telling on itself. Can't recommend putting money-effort-time into rebuilding the B&T U-joint at this late date. The housing (trunnion) itself is probably worn, and now you're talking Money. Better and more future-proof: convert to a cross-and-roller front U-joint as described here.

after diving deep into spicer#s the slip yoke # does not come up anywhere...2-3-800kx......there is a 8001kx..........

 

[RustyRatRod]

after diving deep into spicer#s the slip yoke # does not come up anywhere...2-3-800kx......there is a 8001kx..........

Dana Spicer Drivetrain Products 2-3-8001KX Spicer Drivetrain Products Slip Yokes | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Spicer Drivetrain Products Slip Yokes with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Yokes at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Dana Spicer Drivetrain Products 2-2-349 Spicer Drivetrain Products Flange Yokes | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Spicer Drivetrain Products Flange Yokes with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Yokes at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Dana Spicer Drivetrain Products 5-153X Spicer Drivetrain Products Light Duty U-Joints | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Spicer Drivetrain Products Light Duty U-Joints with qualifying orders of $109. Shop U-Joints at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Dana Spicer Drivetrain Products 2-40-1711 Spicer Drivetrain Products Driveshaft Components | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Spicer Drivetrain Products Driveshaft Components with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Driveshaft Components at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Then all you need is a 2.5" drive shaft tube.

 

[melcardona]

http://[URL]https://www.summitracin...iSmxwYcBkOWlFemGEVLoqujbKzNQBvp0R1yDWKBE1lWdp

[/URL]

http://[URL]https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-2-2-349

[/URL]

http://[URL]https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-5-153x

[/URL]

http://[URL]https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-2-40-1711

[/URL]

Then all you need is a 2.5" drive shaft tube.

ok so the 1 was missing from 800...got it tks!!!

 

[melcardona]

http://[URL]https://www.summitracin...iSmxwYcBkOWlFemGEVLoqujbKzNQBvp0R1yDWKBE1lWdp

[/URL]

http://[URL]https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-2-2-349

[/URL]

http://[URL]https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-5-153x

[/URL]

http://[URL]https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-2-40-1711

[/URL]

Then all you need is a 2.5" drive shaft tube.

rusty..its not showing the weld in flange at diff

 

[RustyRatRod]

rusty..its not showing the weld in flange at diff

That's the easiest thing to find. Do I have to make it with your girlfriend too?

 

[RustyRatRod]

It's 2.5" a weld on u-joint yoke for a 1310 or "whatever" u-joint you're using on the rear of the drive shaft. If you can't find THAT, then I suggest stamp collecting. LOL

 

[melcardona]

It's 2.5" a weld on u-joint yoke for a 1310 or "whatever" u-joint you're using on the rear of the drive shaft. If you can't find THAT, then I suggest stamp collecting. LOL

naah..not stamps...coins..sii......its a combo u joint to oe diff yoke....

 

[RustyRatRod]

naah..not stamps...coins..sii......its a combo u joint to oe diff yoke....

I'd get rid of that problem. Just get the matching weld on drive shaft yoke for whatever rear end yoke you have.

 

[melcardona]

I'd get rid of that problem. Just get the matching weld on drive shaft yoke for whatever rear end yoke you have.

was told by dennys out of ny...and a gent in dfw.....no one makes the small weld on mopar yoke anymore for the 2.5 tube that fits the oe joint.......so combo joint is the only way...witch is fine ill never whear it out anyway...

 

[RustyRatRod]

was told by dennys out of ny...and a gent in dfw.....no one makes the small weld on mopar yoke anymore for the 2.5 tube that fits the oe joint.......so combo joint is the only way...witch is fine ill never whear it out anyway...

So that's a 7260 joint? Is that right?

 

[RustyRatRod]

If yours is the 7260 joint, here's the weld on yoke.

2626-25 MAZDA 7260 2.5 X 065

Sadler Power Train has a huge, in-stock inventory and specializing in light, medium, and heavy duty truck parts. In addition to parts sales, our experienced service department offers transmission, transfer case, differential, driveshaft and hydraulic repair. We can also bend custom u-bolts...

sadlerpowertrain.com

 

[melcardona]

If yours is the 7260 joint, here's the weld on yoke.

http://[URL]https://sadlerpowertrain.com/2626-25_POWERTRAIN-INDUSTRIES_MAZDA-7260-2-5-X-065/

[/URL]

if the pipe is 2.5 od and all other parts are for 083 wall the 065 mazda 7260 worketh not....

 

[RustyRatRod]

Then get a 1310 yoke for the rear end!

 

[Woody500]

If the boot is gone, the joint needs servicing. I don't know where you can get an actual good quality kit from. Maybe @slantsixdan does. What say you, Dan?

Pretty sure I got rebiuld kit from NAPA. Was years ago.
Since no boot, you need to disassemble it and make sure housing it slides in is not worn too much, before ordering the rebuild kit.
IIRC boot can be a pain to stretch/slide on. Deburr well before reinstalling.
Yes, Andy Birnbaum probably has NOS replacement if you need it. Others might have it , too.

 

[barbee6043]

Trunnions are even more off the wall than torsion bars!!!
and I have 3 A body trunnion driveshafts sitting here for anyone than wants to come get them!

 

[melcardona]

Trunnions are even more off the wall than torsion bars!!!
and I have 3 A body trunnion driveshafts sitting here for anyone than wants to come get them!

now T bars are a great set up in my 1.5 cent opinion...the trunnion ball joint did and does work...it being stronger as some have stated is up to debate..but its a mood point on a stock 6 anyway....i have everything coming from dennys driveshaft to upgrade to slip yoke....its like left studs....so not necessary any more and never was to begen with....to the purest i tilt my hat....how many upgrade to disk brakes?? when in fact the drum bk set up works great when in a stock hp car......tossing the oe part aside and up grading to newer tech....oh my....who wants to run the old rag wires, points..what really??? 4 ply tires great good luck...the oils and lubs of yesteryear....nope..........of course now there are points of contention..imo..the seals and some gaskets of the 70/80 are better then the crap of today...nos w/c w/p are better....we pick and choose what makes sence to us..and on each build..it can change..as most all the fun is in the building!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[barbee6043]

now T bars are a great set up in my 1.5 cent opinion...the trunnion ball joint did and does work...it being stronger as some have stated is up to debate..but its a mood point on a stock 6 anyway....i have everything coming from dennys driveshaft to upgrade to slip yoke....its like left studs....so not necessary any more and never was to begen with....to the purest i tilt my hat....how many upgrade to disk brakes?? when in fact the drum bk set up works great when in a stock hp car......tossing the oe part aside and up grading to newer tech....oh my....who wants to run the old rag wires, points..what really??? 4 ply tires great good luck...the oils and lubs of yesteryear....nope..........of course now there are points of contention..imo..the seals and some gaskets of the 70/80 are better then the crap of today...nos w/c w/p are better....we pick and choose what makes sence to us..and on each build..it can change..as most all the fun is in the building!!!!!!!!!!!

T bars are no trouble except to the Chevy guy!
Yea the trunnion hold up fine on the max wedge back then, so plenty strong,,, (do I want to rebuild one today? no.) as did the push button TF, but I have had many of both and want neither today!
Points/condensor,, I am so old,,,I still use them and work great as long as not made in China!
Tires? If they hold air and roll..I roll with what ever!
Todays oils are great... just need a bank loan and line of credit to do an oil change!
I'm so tight, I reuse gaskets!!!