Major electrical problems

[Ohio66Cuda]

Car 66 Barracuda, 360, auto

I was trying to solve a problem with a non functioning temp gauge. In the process of looking for connection problems I removed the gauge cluster. After finding nothing I attempted to put everything back but shorted the ignition switch (didn't disconnect the battery). Snap, crackle and smoke was the result. I saw smoke from under the dash and from the engine compartment. I know that now nothing works, lights horn etc.

1) I do have a wiring diagram but I'm not sure where to start.

2) Should I think about removing the bulkhead disconnect from the engine side?

3) If I do remove all the connections from the engine side, will the compartment side come away? Right now the compartment side is nearly impossible to look at or work on due to its location and heater/ac ductwork in the way.

Any guidance on this will be much appreciated.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Sounds like you toasted the fusible link at the firewall connector under the hood.

 

[67Dart273]

"Might be." You must be VERY careful and your huge mistake was in not removing the battery ground. The main power that feeds the entire car system except for the starter goes THROUGH the ammeter in the cluster. This means the black and red wires are ALWAYS hot, and the ONLY thing that protects them.....poorly....is the fuse link

Start by downloading a free factory manual from over at MyMopar. Some of the manuals there came from the guys here at FABO

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference

At the same site under the wiring section, is aftermarket diagrams, which are not always accurate, not always complete, but sometimes easier to follow.

Also while you are at it, please read this article:

Catalog

This gives a very good overview of the troubles "built into" this system and what to look for, even if you don't do these mods. AT LEAST make certain of the integrity of the bulkhead connector terminals, the ammeter connections, and read how and why problems can occur

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

"Might be." You must be VERY careful and your huge mistake was in not removing the battery ground. The main power that feeds the entire car system except for the starter goes THROUGH the ammeter in the cluster. This means the black and red wires are ALWAYS hot, and the ONLY thing that protects them.....poorly....is the fuse link

Start by downloading a free factory manual from over at MyMopar. Some of the manuals there came from the guys here at FABO

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference

At the same site under the wiring section, is aftermarket diagrams, which are not always accurate, not always complete, but sometimes easier to follow.

Also while you are at it, please read this article:

Catalog

This gives a very good overview of the troubles "built into" this system and what to look for, even if you don't do these mods. AT LEAST make certain of the integrity of the bulkhead connector terminals, the ammeter connections, and read how and why problems can occur

The fusible link is the first thing I'll check. I do have a 66 service manual and that should be accurate. The bulkhead connector is in a tough spot to get at. The torsion bars for the hood and the power brake assist unit get in the way. Thanks for the info. Now I know about the battery connections and will be more careful in the future. It looks like I've got a lot of work ahead of me.

 

[BillGrissom]

Yes, the bulkhead connector comes out. The metal tabs on the engine side are the releases, push them towards the inside of the square hole. Be careful unplugging the engine side connectors. The plastic fingers on the sides often break off, but friction will hold them tight anyway.

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

Yes, the bulkhead connector comes out. The metal tabs on the engine side are the releases, push them towards the inside of the square hole. Be careful unplugging the engine side connectors. The plastic fingers on the sides often break off, but friction will hold them tight anyway.

Thanks for that info. The fusible link looks good. I wanted to check its continuity but the only way to do that is to release the link from the bulkhead connector. I'm trying to picture how the bulkhead connector is constructed. It looks like three connectors plug into it. Can you release each wire from its connector?

 

[67Dart273]

You can after you get it disconnected. "Most years" has three separate harness connectors, then the main connector has "prongs" that release it inside the passenger compartment. You can buy the terminals, they are called "Packard 56". The Mopar ones MUST have the "curled over the edges" type female, rather than "folded over the end

I bought mine at "Clips and fasteners"

Here's how the male is retained, you have to reach in with a small screwdriver, etc, and pry the side of the prong there where it's split
Packard 56 Series Male 16-14 Gauge Terminals GM 2971962

This is what most Mopars use, the "curled around the sides"

This type, "folded over the end" WILL NOT fit some Mopar older connectors, but is used on some of the later ones. This photo, however, shows the locking tab you must release. You work this released by pushing from the inside of the car towards the engine side to release, again with a tiny jeweler's screwdriver or small pick, then pull the wire and terminal out towards the interior of the car.

That is, you push the wire and terminal towards the engine side, work the tool from the engine side, then pull the terminal out the interior side of the connector

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

You can after you get it disconnected. "Most years" has three separate harness connectors, then the main connector has "prongs" that release it inside the passenger compartment. You can buy the terminals, they are called "Packard 56". The Mopar ones MUST have the "curled over the edges" type female, rather than "folded over the end

I bought mine at "Clips and fasteners"

Here's how the male is retained, you have to reach in with a small screwdriver, etc, and pry the side of the prong there where it's split
Packard 56 Series Male 16-14 Gauge Terminals GM 2971962

This is what most Mopars use, the "curled around the sides"

This type, "folded over the end" WILL NOT fit some Mopar older connectors, but is used on some of the later ones. This photo, however, shows the locking tab you must release. You work this released by pushing from the inside of the car towards the engine side to release, again with a tiny jeweler's screwdriver or small pick, then pull the wire and terminal out towards the interior of the car.

That is, you push the wire and terminal towards the engine side, work the tool from the engine side, then pull the terminal out the interior side of the connector

Thanks again. This gives a better idea of how to disassemble it. I see the three separate connectors from the engine side but didn't know if there's any special way to remove them from the rest of the bulkhead connector.

 

[AJ/FormS]

If you grab the two ends of the Link and try to pull the link apart, if it is burned it will usually come apart, tearing the insulation or what's left of it. If it doesn't it will make all kinds of crinkly,creaky,noises, as the insulation and brittle wires flex . If it is good it will be dead quiet and resist every effort to stretch it.

 

[Ohio66Cuda]

If you grab the two ends of the Link and try to pull the link apart, if it is burned it will usually come apart, tearing the insulation or what's left of it. If it doesn't it will make all kinds of crinkly,creaky,noises, as the insulation and brittle wires flex . If it is good it will be dead quiet and resist every effort to stretch it.

After I was able to get the connector with the fusible link away from the main body of the bulkhead I was able to get the fusible link away from the connector so I could inspect it. Yep, the fusible link is toast. At least now I'm able to check the rest of the engine compartment connections from the connectors and see if anything else burned up.