63VALIANT*KISS
Well-Known Member
nice ima pick a bottle up this stuff sounds great
Making old nuts, bolts and clips new again
- Thread starter blue440duster
- Start date
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Captain Canuck
Well-Known Member
I use a wire wheel mounted on my bench grinder, or use one on my electric drill. Once the rust and old paint are removed, repaint.
blue440duster
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by blue440duster
Thanks guys I really like the possibilities of Eastwood's metal blackening system so I think I will also try their FastEtch rust remover looks like the same as Evaporust
Etch means acid. Fast etch is phosphoric acid. Not the same at all.
You Sir are correct.....After a little looking into Eastwood's FastEtch seems to be just like Ospho, Evaporust you can rinse after with water which is a plus.
Some clips and small screws are almost impossible to wire wheel or sandblast that's why I was looking for a chemical/liquid solution and just as important was how to finish the parts from rusting again... I have high hopes for Eastwood's Metal blackening system
64 SRT8 Dart
Well-Known Member
When I used to trap back in the 90's we would "naturally blacken" our traps by getting a 50 gal or so tin trough and fill it 3/4 way with water and the old/over ripened walnuts from the walnut tree in my cousins front yard.
Place the traps in the trough and place the trough on some bricks with a fire underneath it. Let it sit like that boiling for several hours and sure as heck, whatever was in the walnuts would bond to the metal and make those traps blacker than the dirt they were goin in. Worked like a charm.
Useless info...I know. Lol
Place the traps in the trough and place the trough on some bricks with a fire underneath it. Let it sit like that boiling for several hours and sure as heck, whatever was in the walnuts would bond to the metal and make those traps blacker than the dirt they were goin in. Worked like a charm.
Useless info...I know. Lol
interesting and good post thanks for posting this. Don't have the evapo-rust here tonight but will try the vinegar trick first over night. Would try all but only have vinegar available. The Molasses would also be interesting to see if it works too. I checked on line and the evapo-rust is a little pricey depends on what you need it for whether its worth it. I found it 22 and 24 per gallon. now off to do this test. Then back to working on the ocean mermaid mural.
Maybe this is too obvious, but since you're doing your own powder coating, why not buy some high temp tape from one of the suppliers and make your hardware match the parts they go to?
This is what I do and its fast. I Glass bead them with new glass to prevent dulling using this method.
Smalls are done this way.
Get a deep steel pot and a old window screen.
Put the screen over the pot and make a bowl .
Pour yours smalls in. and push down gather the ends and turn it into a bag.
Put the blaster nozzle in the opening.
Pull the trigger and shake.
In seconds you will have all new hardware. Nothing works better then clean glass.
Using other methods the paint does not adhere it only coats with residue beneath. Glass not only cleans it sucks up the moisture if you have a dust system on your blaster.
Do not use Sand for bolts and clips. it impregnates the metal and destroys threads.
Glass also cleans chrome , rubber, aluminum, and many other items like new. it is not as abrasive as Sand
Smalls are done this way.
Get a deep steel pot and a old window screen.
Put the screen over the pot and make a bowl .
Pour yours smalls in. and push down gather the ends and turn it into a bag.
Put the blaster nozzle in the opening.
Pull the trigger and shake.
In seconds you will have all new hardware. Nothing works better then clean glass.
Using other methods the paint does not adhere it only coats with residue beneath. Glass not only cleans it sucks up the moisture if you have a dust system on your blaster.
Do not use Sand for bolts and clips. it impregnates the metal and destroys threads.
Glass also cleans chrome , rubber, aluminum, and many other items like new. it is not as abrasive as Sand
Cool trick with the screen oldmanmopar! I use a piece of wire for nuts and washers (and anything else with a hole in it) coiled into a circle, and start blasting at one end where the two ends are twisted together. With a little practice you can flick your wrist and flip the hardware you just blasted to the other side and move on to the next one. Dedicated -- and wayyyyy beat up :-D -- pairs of needle nose and slip joint pliers live in the blast cabinet to hold bolts.
But I have to add to your comment regarding the use of sand. Aside from becoming embedded into the metal, long term exposure can also kill you. Sand shouldn't be used to blast anything. Silicosis is a nasty animal ...
But I have to add to your comment regarding the use of sand. Aside from becoming embedded into the metal, long term exposure can also kill you. Sand shouldn't be used to blast anything. Silicosis is a nasty animal ...
Absolutely correct! Thanks for the tip, Leanna.
Check out the following for some horror stories: http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/92-102/
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I sandblast, then use a wire wheel on em. Makes em look super shiny, almost chrome. Undercarriage bolts i sandblast, put a thin coat of primer and black paint. On the ones i wire wheel, i spray them with a small amount of zipchem corban 27 corrosion resistant coating. It gets hard like an enamel spray coating, but a little thicker. Too much it gets a pinkish tone to it, but is transparent. Check out lower end of my steering column in my pictures. All those screws and pieces were sandblasted, wire wheeled, and sprayed with corban 27
daredevil
Well-Known Member
Ive done it on big parts. Was wondering about small parts in a wire basket. Bad thing is that its a line of sight thing and would have to be stirred around now and then to clean everything completely.
sheetmetaldan
Well-Known Member
I`ve had good results using electrolysis. Never tried on small stuff, but if you can suspend the items in an old tin can and use the can itself as the sacrificial metal. It might work good the small stuff would be surrounded in the can.
I do this a couple different ways.
I have soaked rusty parts in miratic acid and washed really well with baking soda and water, then coated. or theres a chemical you can spray or soak the part(s) in right after the bath called RUSTBAN. that keeps them from flash rusting as they dry. works awesome.
second method is to sand blast. I took a 2 ft. chunk of 2x6 and drilled a bunch of different holes in it to hold the bolts. gotta flip them to get the ends, (a pain) but I also use that same piece of wood to hold the bolts when I coat them.
I have soaked rusty parts in miratic acid and washed really well with baking soda and water, then coated. or theres a chemical you can spray or soak the part(s) in right after the bath called RUSTBAN. that keeps them from flash rusting as they dry. works awesome.
second method is to sand blast. I took a 2 ft. chunk of 2x6 and drilled a bunch of different holes in it to hold the bolts. gotta flip them to get the ends, (a pain) but I also use that same piece of wood to hold the bolts when I coat them.
yes I agree this DOES work miratic acid aka Hydrochloric acid can be good for surface rust. I have used it on a car roof before I primed it.
We left the metal in longer than 24 hours because it was bubbling and we wanted to see what it was going to do. It was taken out of the vinegar late this afternoon after we were done working on the Dart for the day. The top was almost totally rust free. The rest of the remaining rust was easily removed with a round soft kitchen scrubby typically used on dishes. The dark areas in the photo are places that the rust either ate or etched. This was very thickly coated with rust.
blue440duster
Well-Known Member
I don't actually do my own powdercoating a local place called DUN-RIGHT QC coatings(Shelby Twp., Mi.) do my stuff can't say enough good stuff about them, but the small stuff is what I'm getting into now... i.e. screws and clips, R/T specialties has been a big help but some things I just can't find new or it isn't so important to have new just want it to be clean thats all.
BigWhip
New to Mopar land
In the past, plating and industral stripping companys would clean small piece metal by the pound. I do not know if this is still a option.
tender fingers here.
tender fingers here.
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