Manifold Lift Plate

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If manifold threads are good, use studs, and go. So much unfounded fear about those things.

As someone mentioned, if you are scared to death that you are going to shear or strip out 4 thread holes in an alum intake manifold, back it up with a ratchet strap. Tensile strength for all materials far exceed the weight of an engine by a factor of more than 10.

We used those plates in a shop all day, every day for 10+ years, zero failures.

Operator error is going to be your biggest concern.
 
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I`ve done it with a 440 with loaded bell and trans. Albeit alloy heads.
I used grade 8 all threaded bolts with nuts and washers.
I used longer bolts than needed, bottom them out and snug, then run nuts down and tightened. I have a homemade plate fashioned from half of an H beam. Didn`t have to worry about cheap mig welds busting loose.
 
Anybody that's worked in a shop or engine building facility knows about the star ring.

A piece of pipe with 3-4 bolts sticking out 90-120* apart, welded to the inside. 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 and 1/2" bolts stick out. Spin that one bolt into a hole in the block, swing the hook through, pick it up with a hoist. ONE BOLT into a 440, 426, 454 455 even Diesel stuff. Only 1... LOL
 
I`ve done it with a 440 with loaded bell and trans. Albeit alloy heads.
I used grade 8 all threaded bolts with nuts and washers.
I used longer bolts than needed, bottom them out and snug, then run nuts down and tightened. I have a homemade plate fashioned from half of an H beam. Didn`t have to worry about cheap mig welds busting loose.
Hmmmm, never thought about the plate being the week link.
 
Hmmmm, never thought about the plate being the week link.

Decent weld should tear the material. Another red herring. Never had one we built fail, nor have I had a purchased one fail. No idea about how the chinese weld stuff, I don't trust them at all.

Don't let the engine bob on the hoist, letting it down and stop it quick... boing boing boing... Common sense and smooth operation goes a long way.

First time using the hoist, Lift the engine about 3-5" off the ground, then use the release to figure out how to SLOWLY lower it. Lots of time you can hear the fluid start to move before the hoist moves. No herky, jerky twisting smooth, slowly break it openand then close it back up.
 
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Decent weld should tear the material. Another red herring. Never had one we built fail, nor have I had a purchased one fail. No idea about how the chinese weld stuff, I don't trust them at all.

Don't let the engine bob on the hoist, letting it down and stop it quick... boing boing boing... Common sense and smooth operation goes a long way.
Ya never let the boing thing get out of hand.
 
Anybody that's worked in a shop or engine building facility knows about the star ring.

A piece of pipe with 3-4 bolts sticking out 90-120* apart, welded to the inside. 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 and 1/2" bolts stick out. Spin that one bolt into a hole in the block, swing the hook through, pick it up with a hoist. ONE BOLT into a 440, 426, 454 455 even Diesel stuff. Only 1... LOL
I had one for years until somebody liked it more than I did.
 

Cant know what yawl are talkin about. Does this involve a manifold tethering?
It's just a round steel ring about 4" in diameter, usually mashed into an oval about 2" wide with like 4 or 5 holes drilled in it with different size bolts either bolted in or welded in. Easy to make.
 
I've never trusted those on an aluminum intake and 4 cheesie little bolts. But I guess people use them.

Ya me too but has anyone ever had a failure using the manifold ,aluminum or iron?


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Numerous times, nothing ever even came close to being a problem.
 
If you need additional piece of mind, you could always calculate how much pulling force you exert on those 5/16-18 aluminum intake threads when just tightening the nuts installing the carburetor, then multiply that by four. You'd be surprised. Like folks have said - it's FAR more than the weight of your engine/transmission combo.
 
I have an Edelbrock Air Gap on my 340. The manifold looks like it would be weaker that a solid one like a performer. I don't think I would use a plate on my Air Gap. I called Edelbrock and they said it was not recommended on an Air Gap.
 
All else you can put the engine in or take it out the bottom and use the plate to steady the engine while the body is let down around it or lifted. (whichever way your going)
 
I have used the intake plate and corners of the heads. Made a plate for the Edelbrock intake on the Hemi. As with anything, just make sure that everything is is as good as it can be.

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After becoming close friends with my buddy who ran a race engine shop for 4 decades, I lost my fear of using a lift plate. He is one of those guys who can make things make sense and it finally sunk in that they are more than safe to use. Unless you're doing something stupid or not paying attention to what you're doing, you won't hurt or damage a thing. I'll still use a chain to load/unload greasy junk, but my lift plate that was a gift from Ben Barnes Performance Racing is my weapon of choice pulling or installing motors.
 
I have no worries with grade 8 bolts screwed in far enough to catch as my thread as possible… But it’s the actual threads in the manifold I worry about and an aluminum manifold I question it even further. Now in saying that I have used the lift without issue but I will admit it was with one eye closed and the other squinting lol
 
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