Manual or automatic?

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I had read about some of the later 904's having a lower first gear. What kind of converter, or stall speed would you recommend?
I know it's going to come down to cost vs. time.
This is the approach I would take. Find a "999" transmission, it's the later 904 with a lower gear set. Typically found in late 70s cordobas and such, often with a 2 barrel 360. Run a 3.23ish rear gear, and get a converter built to suit
 
Another option I've been looking at are "kits" available from Silver Sport Transmissions and Modern Drive Line. They're not cheap. All together with shipping I would be looking at $6,500-7,000, but it would everything needed to convert the car to use a Tremec TKX. Just want to hear some thoughts or experiences of this option.
Keep searching. Guys buy stuff when they come in to money then never use it. I bought a brand new complete T56 magnum, bellhousing, and clutch for an LS swap for $3500. Sold the LS bellhousing and $1300 centerforce clutch for $1500. Bought the mopar QuickTime bell, and a McLeod RXT clutch for about the same cost. Stuff like that comes up often, but you gotta be ready to jump on it because it doesn’t last long.
IMG_2674.jpeg
 
This is the approach I would take. Find a "999" transmission, it's the later 904 with a lower gear set. Typically found in late 70s cordobas and such, often with a 2 barrel 360. Run a 3.23ish rear gear, and get a converter built to suit
I remember reading about the 999 when I was trying to figure what transmission is in my car. What stall speed would you recommend?
 
I remember reading about the 999 when I was trying to figure what transmission is in my car. What stall speed would you recommend?
I'm not a torque converter expert by any means, but if you go this route, I'd call a reputable converter builder and have them spec it out. Your combo is relatively mild, but with a custom converter and a low gear 999, it would be impressive, and stronger out of the hole than it is now, plus cruise at highway speeds way easier. Probably the most economical swap also.
 
Keep searching. Guys buy stuff when they come in to money then never use it. I bought a brand new complete T56 magnum, bellhousing, and clutch for an LS swap for $3500. Sold the LS bellhousing and $1300 centerforce clutch for $1500. Bought the mopar QuickTime bell, and a McLeod RXT clutch for about the same cost. Stuff like that comes up often, but you gotta be ready to jump on it because it doesn’t last long.
View attachment 1716459329
I've seen deals on TKX's and TR56's and thought about going that route.
My concern is that in the past, I've tried to cobble parts together and they didn't work as well as I hoped. The biggest problem being that I didn't have the money to buy the right, or better quality parts.
Now I have the opportunity to spend a little more to get something that will work, that's why a kit that had been thought out and proven to work was appealing to me. I could definitely save some money finding the transmission myself and buying some of the parts from SST and MDL.
 
I'm not a torque converter expert by any means, but if you go this route, I'd call a reputable converter builder and have them spec it out. Your combo is relatively mild, but with a custom converter and a low gear 999, it would be impressive, and stronger out of the hole than it is now, plus cruise at highway speeds way easier. Probably the most economical swap also.
Thanks for letting me know.
I haven't completely ruled out staying with an automatic. It would definitely be the cheapest and easiest option.
 
Just a heads up, the W58 trans all have a shorter input shaft. I tried desperately to find a way to run a W58 behind a /6 years ago and gave up. At the time, an R154 was like $400 so I jumped on one of those instead. I think the difference is 1" but been a lot of years. And I sold my R154 5 or 6 years ago for $1100, no idea what the going rate is now.

The W58 would be a killer setup, too. Smaller, cheaper, plenty strong. It seemed like the perfect match to a turbo EFI /6, if only the input shaft was longer. And rumored to shift significantly better than an R154.

Oh, and the bellhousing bolt pattern is different between the R154/AX15/AR5 and W58, so the Dakota bell can't be used.

I do have these pictures, they are of a W58, but no info.

28143947_full.jpg


28144015_full.jpg


No idea if that solved the input length issue.

In regards to an auto, another option would be a 200R4. Not really cheap since I wouldn't trust a used one which means a stage "something" build from someone, but you can buy a bellhousing to bolt one to a SBM and they fit under the floor better. I think they still require some surgery, but not as much as a 46RE. @jbc426?

Or an 8HP70. Controller cost is higher, but the trans isn't bad used and the floor surgery isn't any worse than an AX15 swap would be. I think? And you would want a taller rear gear, first in those is like 4.7x:1.

In the end, based on hip and ankle surgeries, I would go with a 46RE. Do it over the winter when the car isn't going to move anyways (assuming you have a heated shop) and just accept the floor surgery. Or maybe a 42RE as they are smaller and (maybe?) use less power. I would get both rebuilt either way so maybe it would be a wash.
 
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I swapped my A833 out for an A833 OD, no complaints, no expensive 5 speed, no additional time and effort.

Drive it everywhere, long distance, takes a beating behind a built 383.
 
if you wanted to do a W58 Asin trans dellow conversions or castlemaine rod shop in Oz to the shorter bellhousing
Chrysler V8 318 360 Aussie to W55/8 5sp Bellhousing

BUT they are right hand drive .....you'd would need to rig up a concentric or eternal hydraulic clutch or ask for a custom LHD job...

for external hydraulic they only do them with a ford clutch fork set up
so you need the bellhousing their hybrid clutch fork and their throwout bearing its not cheap. and you'd use the standard ball stud mount, now on the wrong side to mount a bracket for a pusher slave cylinder (like one off a 3 series BMW)
its a multi fit bell on the front covering 318, slant, and hemi 6 they just have to drill the right holes and finish the correct starter mounting

the back can be made to cover Borgwarner single rail and t5 or ford Srod and top loader or the R154 or W55-59 AISIN pattern

believe the AISIN one must be a different casting from the normal round hole version

but all of them work with a 6 -7 inch input shaft more or less the short ford length of input
shaft

basically unless its an OEM replacement bellhousing that you buy all of them for mopar are very short compared with standard hence the preoccupation with the ford fork and throwout, that worked fine OEM in a short ford bell.

Dave
 
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Just a heads up, the W58 trans all have a shorter input shaft. I tried desperately to find a way to run a W58 behind a /6 years ago and gave up. At the time, an R154 was like $400 so I jumped on one of those instead. I think the difference is 1" but been a lot of years. And I sold my R154 5 or 6 years ago for $1100, no idea what the going rate is now.

The W58 would be a killer setup, too. Smaller, cheaper, plenty strong. It seemed like the perfect match to a turbo EFI /6, if only the input shaft was longer. And rumored to shift significantly better than an R154.

Oh, and the bellhousing bolt pattern is different between the R154/AX15/AR5 and W58, so the Dakota bell can't be used.

I do have these pictures, they are of a W58, but no info.

View attachment 1716459397

View attachment 1716459398

No idea if that solved the input length issue.

In regards to an auto, another option would be a 200R4. Not really cheap since I wouldn't trust a used one which means a stage "something" build from someone, but you can buy a bellhousing to bolt one to a SBM and they fit under the floor better. I think they still require some surgery, but not as much as a 46RE. @jbc426?

Or an 8HP70. Controller cost is higher, but the trans isn't bad used and the floor surgery isn't any worse than an AX15 swap would be. I think? And you would want a taller rear gear, first in those is like 4.7x:1.

In the end, based on hip and ankle surgeries, I would go with a 46RE. Do it over the winter when the car isn't going to move anyways (assuming you have a heated shop) and just accept the floor surgery. Or maybe a 42RE as they are smaller and (maybe?) use less power. I would get both rebuilt either way so maybe it would be a wash.
For my 2004R and later 4L60 swap, I had to trim the Torsion Bar crossover and capped that area with steel plate. I reinforced the remaining part of the crossover that curves around the tunnel portion with a 1/4" steel strap that welded to the floor.

I also stitch welded the rest of the crossmember to the floor, as the factory spot welds looked kinda frail. I fab'd up a custom bolt on part of the crossover, which I had to modify slightly for the 4L60 swap.

The actual sheet metal of the floor was not cut to install it.

200R4 5.jpg


4L60 Bell.jpg


Heart (Medium).png


20241004_113210.jpg
 
I have never, I’ll repeat that, NEVER ever regretted putting an overdrive in anything. It’s always worth it and is the one single modification that you can do to a vehicle that makes it more enjoyable to drive AND doesn’t change how the car performs. Everything I build now gets roller cams and overdrive. Cutting the TB crossmember and tunnel work sucks but it’s worth it and at least it can be ugly because it’s covered by carpet. US car tool and others now make bolt in crossmembers for most swaps so that’s an easy button. My D100 with a 3:55 gear and a 46RE rips down the freeway at 75-80 mph at ~2200 in OD. You can drive it for hours and not hate it or get run over by semis going 65mph. Do it, you won’t regret it when you’re finished.
I'll never forget what Rick Ehrenberg said about it. Push a button, and Bingo, overdrive.

It sucks there aren't many options for connecting an A-518 to a big block
 
Another option I've been looking at are "kits" available from Silver Sport Transmissions and Modern Drive Line. They're not cheap. All together with shipping I would be looking at $6,500-7,000, but it would everything needed to convert the car to use a Tremec TKX. Just want to hear some thoughts or experiences of this option.
I ordered my T56 Magnum swap kit from Silver Sport. Was a great kit worked well for me. Took me a few years to decide which manual transmission to swap in. In the end the T56 won out due to its gear ratios.
 
For my 2004R and later 4L60 swap, I had to trim the Torsion Bar crossover and capped that area with steel plate. I reinforced the remaining part of the crossover that curves around the tunnel portion with a 1/4" steel strap that welded to the floor.

I also stitch welded the rest of the crossmember to the floor, as the factory spot welds looked kinda frail. I fab'd up a custom bolt on part of the crossover, which I had to modify slightly for the 4L60 swap.

The actual sheet metal of the floor was not cut to install it.

View attachment 1716459624

View attachment 1716459625

View attachment 1716459626

View attachment 1716459627
I sure hope Lonnie built you that 4l60. Those things are time bombs behind any kind of power. And I know you’re stepping power up pretty big right?
 
I sure hope Lonnie built you that 4l60. Those things are time bombs behind any kind of power. And I know you’re stepping power up pretty big right?
Yes, good point. They are not so good in the stock form, so I looked around and went with Performabuilt's transmission with the 6 planetary higher first hear instead of the 3.07 factory gearset. Performabuilt goes through them and addresses the rest of the weak points in the 4L60 have all been upgraded with aftermarket solutions as well. They essentially build it as a beefed up 4L75E with upgraded internals including both shafts, clutches and lots of other hard parts.. That unit has a much better power handling and durability reputation than it's little brother the 4L60.

It's interesting that virtually all the 4L60's hard parts are significantly larger than the components of the 2004R. I sure loved that 2004R, which was from Lonnie's shop, Extreme Automatics. Their 2004R is the best functioning automatic I've ever driven.
 
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Just a heads up, the W58 trans all have a shorter input shaft. I tried desperately to find a way to run a W58 behind a /6 years ago and gave up. At the time, an R154 was like $400 so I jumped on one of those instead. I think the difference is 1" but been a lot of years. And I sold my R154 5 or 6 years ago for $1100, no idea what the going rate is now.

The W58 would be a killer setup, too. Smaller, cheaper, plenty strong. It seemed like the perfect match to a turbo EFI /6, if only the input shaft was longer. And rumored to shift significantly better than an R154.

Oh, and the bellhousing bolt pattern is different between the R154/AX15/AR5 and W58, so the Dakota bell can't be used.

I do have these pictures, they are of a W58, but no info.

View attachment 1716459397

View attachment 1716459398

No idea if that solved the input length issue.

In regards to an auto, another option would be a 200R4. Not really cheap since I wouldn't trust a used one which means a stage "something" build from someone, but you can buy a bellhousing to bolt one to a SBM and they fit under the floor better. I think they still require some surgery, but not as much as a 46RE. @jbc426?

Or an 8HP70. Controller cost is higher, but the trans isn't bad used and the floor surgery isn't any worse than an AX15 swap would be. I think? And you would want a taller rear gear, first in those is like 4.7x:1.

In the end, based on hip and ankle surgeries, I would go with a 46RE. Do it over the winter when the car isn't going to move anyways (assuming you have a heated shop) and just accept the floor surgery. Or maybe a 42RE as they are smaller and (maybe?) use less power. I would get both rebuilt either way so maybe it would be a wash.
I had heard the input shafts are different. I think the gears on the end are different, too. I know the R154 input shaft will not work in AX15 because of the difference in tooth count.
I'm seeing R154's for about $1,000, so they're not too bad.
Thanks for letting me know that the bellhousing won't work on the W58. It was something I considered because of it being smaller than an R154.

I haven't heard of using a 200R4. I'll have to check it out. I have heard of using a 4L60. They're good transmissions that get a bad reputation from full size GM truck guys beating the **** out of them and not doing any maintenance.

I thought about the 8HP70. There's a 6 speed and 8 speed for sale very cheap local to me. Guys are making them work with Gen III Hemi swaps. I would need the harness and some kind of controller, and know there are stand alone controllers available. I didn't know they had a 4.7 first gear. You would need a 1.76 axle gear or something like that.

Yeah, just being in a car for any length of time is rough on me, whether I'm driving or not. A hydraulic clutch wouldn't be too bad, but a mechanical clutch would be more than I would want to deal with on a regular basis. I don't have heat in the garage right now. I do have 220V power, so I just need a heater. At this point I think cutting the transmission tunnel is worth the trouble for whatever transmission I decide to use.
 
if you wanted to do a W58 Asin trans dellow conversions or castlemaine rod shop in Oz to the shorter bellhousing
Chrysler V8 318 360 Aussie to W55/8 5sp Bellhousing

BUT they are right hand drive .....you'd would need to rig up a concentric or eternal hydraulic clutch or ask for a custom LHD job...

for external hydraulic they only do them with a ford clutch fork set up
so you need the bellhousing their hybrid clutch fork and their throwout bearing its not cheap. and you'd use the standard ball stud mount, now on the wrong side to mount a bracket for a pusher slave cylinder (like one off a 3 series BMW)
its a multi fit bell on the front covering 318, slant, and hemi 6 they just have to drill the right holes and finish the correct starter mounting

the back can be made to cover Borgwarner single rail and t5 or ford Srod and top loader or the R154 or W55-59 AISIN pattern

believe the AISIN one must be a different casting from the normal round hole version

but all of them work with a 6 -7 inch input shaft more or less the short ford length of input
shaft

basically unless its an OEM replacement bellhousing that you buy all of them for mopar are very short compared with standard hence the preoccupation with the ford fork and throwout, that worked fine OEM in a short ford bell.

Dave
Interesting, I'll have to check it out. And of course, any time I get in a situation that I need some odd ball specialty parts they have to come from Australia or New Zealand at an astronomical shipping rate. The close ratio gear set for an AX15 is from New Zealand.
On the bright side, I'm glad they have the resources to figure this stuff out.
 
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For my 2004R and later 4L60 swap, I had to trim the Torsion Bar crossover and capped that area with steel plate. I reinforced the remaining part of the crossover that curves around the tunnel portion with a 1/4" steel strap that welded to the floor.

I also stitch welded the rest of the crossmember to the floor, as the factory spot welds looked kinda frail. I fab'd up a custom bolt on part of the crossover, which I had to modify slightly for the 4L60 swap.

The actual sheet metal of the floor was not cut to install it.

View attachment 1716459624

View attachment 1716459625

View attachment 1716459626

View attachment 1716459627
That does look like a nice fit.
 
I ordered my T56 Magnum swap kit from Silver Sport. Was a great kit worked well for me. Took me a few years to decide which manual transmission to swap in. In the end the T56 won out due to its gear ratios.
The T56 is another contender I've thought about because of the gearing. They come up for sale occasionally for not too much.
The reason I started this thread was for this conversation about experiences with different transmissions. I want to be able to make an informed decision based on facts, not just the cheapest or easiest option.
 
The T56 is another contender I've thought about because of the gearing. They come up for sale occasionally for not too much.
The reason I started this thread was for this conversation about experiences with different transmissions. I want to be able to make an informed decision based on facts, not just the cheapest or easiest option.
There are two different gear ratio T56s. One is wide ratio and other is close ratio. Tremec has the gear ratios on their web site. I have the close ratio version with the 2.6 first gear.
 
There is one option to connect one to a big block. I’ve never used it, but do you not like it for some reason?
There's a couple, neither is awesome.

Bolt on bell housing from Ultrabell, but six 5/16" fasteners is.... Scary. I've wondered about getting a big block bell welded on.

The adapter plates are ok, but they push the trans back and it's already snug on a BB A body. My biggest gripe is that they are clearly not factory.
 
I would think the close ratio version is more what I'm after.
One issue I ran into is Silver Sport sent me a cast aluminum bell housing which was excessively large which made it harder to modify trans tunnel. So I sold it to a member here and bought a Quick Time Bell housing which is much smaller easier to modify tunnel to fit. But Quick Time around twice as much as the cast bell housing. In the end all the time all the money its worth it in a big way.
 

One issue I ran into is Silver Sport sent me a cast aluminum bell housing which was excessively large which made it harder to modify trans tunnel. So I sold it to a member here and bought a Quick Time Bell housing which is much smaller easier to modify tunnel to fit. But Quick Time around twice as much as the cast bell housing. In the end all the time all the money its worth it in a big way.
I wouldn't think a cast aluminum bellhousing would be that bigger than the steel QuickTime. That might be a deal breaker because my car has factory air conditioning and the evaporator housing is touching the transmission tunnel above the bellhousing.
 
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