Manual or automatic?

[matthon]

One issue I ran into

Didn't your trans have a drainplug in a different location, under the crossmember iirc?

If so, how does that happen?

 

[340sFastback]

Didn't your trans have a drainplug in a different location, under the crossmember iirc?

If so, how does that happen?

Yeah forgot about that. Tremec forgot to drill tap the drain plug, whoops. Now I have a one of a kind trans, lucky me. But when I am out driving around banging gears sort of forget about that f#@k up..

 

[340sFastback]

I wouldn't think a cast aluminum bellhousing would be that bigger than the steel QuickTime. That might be a deal breaker because my car has factory air conditioning and the evaporator housing is touching the transmission tunnel above the bellhousing.

Right mine is factory AC too. The Quick Time is much much smaller then a cast bell housing. One of selling points of Quick Time is smaller size ideal for old cars with small trans tunnels. And they are very nice bell housings in terms of quality too.

 

[DionR]

if you wanted to do a W58 Asin trans dellow conversions or castlemaine rod shop in Oz to the shorter bellhousing
Chrysler V8 318 360 Aussie to W55/8 5sp Bellhousing

BUT they are right hand drive .....you'd would need to rig up a concentric or eternal hydraulic clutch or ask for a custom LHD job...

for external hydraulic they only do them with a ford clutch fork set up
so you need the bellhousing their hybrid clutch fork and their throwout bearing its not cheap. and you'd use the standard ball stud mount, now on the wrong side to mount a bracket for a pusher slave cylinder (like one off a 3 series BMW)
its a multi fit bell on the front covering 318, slant, and hemi 6 they just have to drill the right holes and finish the correct starter mounting

the back can be made to cover Borgwarner single rail and t5 or ford Srod and top loader or the R154 or W55-59 AISIN pattern

believe the AISIN one must be a different casting from the normal round hole version

but all of them work with a 6 -7 inch input shaft more or less the short ford length of input
shaft

basically unless its an OEM replacement bellhousing that you buy all of them for mopar are very short compared with standard hence the preoccupation with the ford fork and throwout, that worked fine OEM in a short ford bell.

Dave

I forgot about Dellow. I even still have the pdf catalog I downloaded back in '05.

 

[DionR]

There are two different gear ratio T56s. One is wide ratio and other is close ratio. Tremec has the gear ratios on their web site. I have the close ratio version with the 2.6 first gear.

I would think the close ratio version is more what I'm after.

I bought the wide ratio T56 Magnum for my G3 swap. Mostly because the ratio's match what my '15 Challenger R/T had and I loved how that drove.

The narrow ratio box have a 0.63:1 6th gear while my 6th is 0.5:1. The narrow ratio box is great with a deeper rear gear, but because 6th is deeper as well, it cruises at an even higher rpm. At the same time, with a carb'ed motor the .05:1 6th might be too much. I expect to cruise at about 1500 rpm at 65mph.

 

[tcanin00]

Right mine is factory AC too. The Quick Time is much much smaller then a cast bell housing. One of selling points of Quick Time is smaller size ideal for old cars with small trans tunnels. And they are very nice bell housings in terms of quality too.

Good to know that a QuickTime bellhousing will clear the factory air conditioning.

 

[tcanin00]

I forgot about Dellow. I even still have the pdf catalog I downloaded back in '05.

View attachment 1716459938

I looked at both websites. Dellow only has a a bellhousing for Australian small blocks. Castlemaine has a bellhousing for a specific length input shaft W series transmissions.

 

[tcanin00]

I bought the wide ratio T56 Magnum for my G3 swap. Mostly because the ratio's match what my '15 Challenger R/T had and I loved how that drove.

The narrow ratio box have a 0.63:1 6th gear while my 6th is 0.5:1. The narrow ratio box is great with a deeper rear gear, but because 6th is deeper as well, it cruises at an even higher rpm. At the same time, with a carb'ed motor the .05:1 6th might be too much. I expect to cruise at about 1500 rpm at 65mph.

Yeah, with a 3.73 axle gear I think a close ratio version would work for my set up. Having a .63 overdrive would be nice, too. I think my mild 318 would have a hard time with a .5 overdrive.

 

[340sFastback]

Good to know that a QuickTime bellhousing will clear the factory air conditioning.

I can just barely squeeze carpet between raised trans tunnel and heat ducts. Had to remove padding on underside of carpet and even then wrestled carpet into place. A lot of arm strength was required. But no modifications to heat AC box was required.

 

[tcanin00]

I think I've come to a conclusion about which way I'm going to go with the transmission. I want to thank everyone that responded in this thread. You guys helped me make a decision with your responses and experiences.
As of now, I'm going with the AX15 for a few different reasons. First, being that I already have one and the bellhousing, stock clutch and flywheel, and a Hurst shifter. It's a 4wd version, but I have the main shaft and tail housing to convert it to rwd.
Knowing I have to tear down the transmission is what made me think about finding a better ratio set, at least for first gear. I found a complete close ratio set from Speedtek in Australia. The set is $2,500 and shipping is $170.
Jeep AX5 AX15 Close Ratio Uprated 1000nM Transmission Gearset
The reason I think this will work is that is that although mathematically the stock AX15 gears with a 2.76 axle gear would pull like a 904 with 4.10's, it would still have steep RPM drops between shifts. I think the close ratio set with 3.73's would keep the engine in the power band better. Again, this is my opinion after reading different threads about this.
Another big deal breaker is that most aftermarket bellhousings require the use of a 130 tooth flywheel. There are 130 tooth flywheels available the 5.9 Magnum engine with the teeth for the crank position sensor. I have a 5.2 that runs fine. I have thought about putting a 5.9 in the future, but a TKX or a T56 would have required swapping the engine too.
I think I'll get a hydraulic clutch pedal from SST to make things easier. Holley has a couple of different torsion bar reinforcement kits and crossmembers that are not terribly expensive. I can make parts, but having something available that has had the research and development and is proven to work helps with the decision to make versus buy. I'll start a new thread with the conversion once I start it.

 

[TT5.9mag]

I think I've come to a conclusion about which way I'm going to go with the transmission. I want to thank everyone that responded in this thread. You guys helped me make a decision with your responses and experiences.
As of now, I'm going with the AX15 for a few different reasons. First, being that I already have one and the bellhousing, stock clutch and flywheel, and a Hurst shifter. It's a 4wd version, but I have the main shaft and tail housing to convert it to rwd.
Knowing I have to tear down the transmission is what made me think about finding a better ratio set, at least for first gear. I found a complete close ratio set from Speedtek in Australia. The set is $2,500 and shipping is $170.
Jeep AX5 AX15 Close Ratio Uprated 1000nM Transmission Gearset
The reason I think this will work is that is that although mathematically the stock AX15 gears with a 2.76 axle gear would pull like a 904 with 4.10's, it would still have steep RPM drops between shifts. I think the close ratio set with 3.73's would keep the engine in the power band better. Again, this is my opinion after reading different threads about this.
Another big deal breaker is that most aftermarket bellhousings require the use of a 130 tooth flywheel. There are 130 tooth flywheels available the 5.9 Magnum engine with the teeth for the crank position sensor. I have a 5.2 that runs fine. I have thought about putting a 5.9 in the future, but a TKX or a T56 would have required swapping the engine too.
I think I'll get a hydraulic clutch pedal from SST to make things easier. Holley has a couple of different torsion bar reinforcement kits and crossmembers that are not terribly expensive. I can make parts, but having something available that has had the research and development and is proven to work helps with the decision to make versus buy. I'll start a new thread with the conversion once I start it.

Look at the hydraulic clutch kits from Malwood.

 

[tcanin00]

Look at the hydraulic clutch kits from Malwood.

I'll check them out.