Manual valve body in street driving?

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MopaR&D

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I'm looking at getting a Turbo Action forward manual valve body for the A-904 in my Duster. I know it provides firmer shifts but are they firm all the time, or only when flooring it? As in, will the shifts be super hard when I'm just cruising around town at part throttle?
 
Depends on your torque converter--stock will hit hard always. The looser it is the more it soften up shifting. Why slipping at low rpms can be good.

The shifts can be played with a little, no idea how but my tranny guy was able to set mine up for street use...
 
I really like mine using 3.90 gears. In the rain with wet roads 2nd gear holds better than 1st and I need not to worry about the trans shifting to 1st no matter how much throttle I give it.

Guess if I ate and drove I be cussing it out, lol
 
I like mine using a nine inch dynamic converter 3300 stall, But don't shift to first while the car is moving.

HKeller
 
Yeah my 7 1/4 is getting deep-sixed for sure, probably going to go with an 8 1/4. And I'm looking at a 2200-2500 stall converter from SMR Trans. I chose the valve body with part no. 17675 because on Turbo Action's website it says it allows full engine braking in all gears, not just 2nd and 3rd. I want this feature because I intend to road race the car more than drag race and for that engine braking is definitely a plus.

EDIT: Oh and I'm thinking of either 2.94 or 3.23 gears with the A-999 low gear set. Anybody know where I could find that gear set BTW?
 
is there a reason you want forward pattern manual valve body? my trans guy talked me out of it... says forward pattern will limit available pressures, and a reverse pattern will allow for higher pressures (I'm assuming pressures available to clutch pack and band)...
 
Plus 3rd gear is right next to neutral. My reverse body allows me to move the shifter hard in to 3rd and it stops. Last thing I want or need at 7,000 rpms in 2nd gear is to worry about how soft or hard to move the shifter (I am using the factory column shift..works pretty good, doesn't look cool thou)
 
is there a reason you want forward pattern manual valve body? my trans guy talked me out of it... says forward pattern will limit available pressures, and a reverse pattern will allow for higher pressures (I'm assuming pressures available to clutch pack and band)...

Looking at Turbo-Action's website they don't offer a reverse manual valve body that allows engine braking in 1st gear. Again I intend to road race the car more than drag race so it will be a huge advantage to have engine braking in 1st. Honestly I was originally planning to swap in a 4-speed but after planning it out it would cost too much and take too much time. Plus I'm getting an SCS shifter so missing a gear shouldn't be something to worry about.

EDIT: I'm having trouble finding that low gear set, Summit Racing doesn't have it and I can't find any for sale on eBay. Should I just find an A-999 from the junkyard?
 
My Turbo Action shifts hard most of the time. I can limit how hard it shifts with how much pedal I am giving it but it is still pretty firm.

Jack
 
Looking at Turbo-Action's website they don't offer a reverse manual valve body that allows engine braking in 1st gear. Again I intend to road race the car more than drag race so it will be a huge advantage to have engine braking in 1st. Honestly I was originally planning to swap in a 4-speed but after planning it out it would cost too much and take too much time. Plus I'm getting an SCS shifter so missing a gear shouldn't be something to worry about.

EDIT: I'm having trouble finding that low gear set, Summit Racing doesn't have it and I can't find any for sale on eBay. Should I just find an A-999 from the junkyard?


The brakes are for stopping and slowing the car. The trans is for keeping it in the right gear.
 
I had the forward pattern v.b. in my previous duster,the shifts weren't all that firm didn't like it..i'm running the reverse pattern in this duster,much firmer shifts,i like it much better :-D:-D
 
The brakes are for stopping and slowing the car. The trans is for keeping it in the right gear.

Maybe I'm thinking of it wrong but it would be difficult to downshift approaching a turn and have the engine just drop to idle. Actually from what some of the other posters said I wouldn't even be able to downshift into 1st while the car is moving; how the heck do you road race with tall gears in only 2nd and 3rd? I'm not trying to be stubborn here and I'm all ears but again I want to be able to upshift and downshift to any gear while moving and keep the engine RPMs matched up to the drivetrain so I can hammer it and have immediate response coming out of turns.
 
Maybe I'm thinking of it wrong but it would be difficult to downshift approaching a turn and have the engine just drop to idle. Actually from what some of the other posters said I wouldn't even be able to downshift into 1st while the car is moving; how the heck do you road race with tall gears in only 2nd and 3rd? I'm not trying to be stubborn here and I'm all ears but again I want to be able to upshift and downshift to any gear while moving and keep the engine RPMs matched up to the drivetrain so I can hammer it and have immediate response coming out of turns.


You have the typical misunderstanding of how it works (turning, shifting and breaking during performance driving) and what is going on. This is not bad and I'm not knocking you in any way, it's simply a lack of knowledge.

This is a very simplified version of what is going on……

As you approach a turn you are using the brakes to slow the car. At the same time you are setting the car up for the turn and the exit.

When you see or hear the down shifting the driver is not using engine compression to slow the car he is rev matching (getting the car in the proper gear for the turn and exit).

Again…… Another simplified example. Lets say one is driving along a straight, flat road at 60mph in 4th. Now lets say the same driver wants to be in 3rd at the same speed without any transition or change in speed. What the driver would do is shift from 4th to 3rd while bringing the rpms up to match what it should be for 3rd gear at 60mph.

It would look something like this in it's simplest form…… 60mph in 4th > clutch in > rev engine > shift into 3rd > clutch out.

So if you know for example, 60mph in 4th is 3,000 and 60mph in 3rd is 6,000 you would shift out of 4th, rev the engine to 6,000 and shift into 3rd.


The overall goal is maintaining balance. Wild downshifting and breaking in the turn will transfer weight to the outside front tire, unloading the other three (this is why so many 16 year olds park their honda on a tree).


So again it is something like this…….. Slow the car with the brakes as you approach the turn and get the car set up for the turn. When done correctly you will be 100% off the brakes throughout the turn and have the car in a neutral state while maintaing speed with the throttle before acceleration out of the turn.


This is why you hear the "phrase slow in fast out."
 
I'm not a road racer but if you need to put the trans in first, for whatever reason you are correct that you don't want a reverse pattern valve body. Get the forward pattern.

Stroked 340 doesn't road race so don't worry about him. For the low gear set check out A&A transmission.
 
Stroked 340 doesn't road race so don't worry about him. For the low gear set check out A&A transmission.

That is correct i do real racing!!!
 
When you see or hear the down shifting the driver is not using engine compression to slow the car he is rev matching (getting the car in the proper gear for the turn and exit).

You do use the engine to slow the car/bike/vehicle down. You use everything in your arsenal to slow the car/bike to make the corner, including engine compression.

The reason you "Rev Match" is to avoid wheel hop which is worse than not down shifting at all.

If you aren't on the gas or maintaining enough HP output from the engine to carry current MPH, you're slowing down with/using compression.

I do agree it's more important to be on the gas earlier exiting than to bomb it into the corner.
 
I'm looking at getting a Turbo Action forward manual valve body for the A-904 in my Duster. I know it provides firmer shifts but are they firm all the time, or only when flooring it? As in, will the shifts be super hard when I'm just cruising around town at part throttle?

Maybe it was discussed, but get one with low band apply they are safer buddy, like shifting clutch free and very firm too.
 
I would get a griner with low band apply for what you plan to do. You most definately dfo use the engine to brake if you oush your car hard enough. I know guys that would use parachutes if they could to drive in deeper...lol.
 
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