Separate names with a comma.
Both, 304 Javlin... "73"..
It's fixed!! LOL... I had a situation where my two step activation button jammed, with my wife in the car, on a busy street, with my old race cam and small over heating radiator... I pulled over and got it working and just left it alone for so long I had forgotten how to turn it on. Sooo... I got under the dash and followed a few wires. It was a switch I did'nt use at the end of a row of control switches...
I used the lable maker. Mine are labeled, 2S=2 step, LL=Linelock, FP=fuel pump, IG=Ignition. Thats not the order they in tho. Its IG, FP, 2S, LL Not gonna say before i labeled em, i didn't forget what switch did what...
Again we were talking on that other thread about the trifecta of me getting the aluminum heads. I realize most of the potential for the car doing the number that I'm seeking is already there. Unfortunately making it up in the first 60 feet is a lot harsher on the car then I want it to be. I would rather just do a 2.0 or 1.9 start and get the rest with HP LOL...
Also you mentioned something about that combustion chamber size. I do plan to make that up and hopefully more with head gasket..
Make no mistake about it, 60 ft is the best beginning of a good 1/4 E.T. BUT..... There is 1260 more ft to contend with. For example, I raced a procharged 'stang that cut a 1.9 and ran a 10.60. True street cars will tend to fall a little short on the 60 ft time. I've always dealt with that. But this is the key. You can't drag the bad 60 ft into a bad 330 ft. That's what kills my 318 Duster. You can get your 1.88 60 ft time, but your car HAS to come alive like a bottle rocket then and there to stop the bleeding. This is how a 1.90 60 ft can turn into an 11.85.
I need more bottle rocket!!
what head castings are on your mill at the moment?
Then you need a bigger bore and shorter stroke with a big cam and GOOD flowing heads. The 4" stroke with a mild cam will still be a tire fryer with a lighter good flowing head
You need your car to "git up and at 'em" at the 40 ft mark. The bleeding stops THERE!! Ummmm.... your about to make a bunch of people that spent a lot of money get very angry..... LOL
I spent a number of years playing cat and mouse with big blocks. It was fun. lol just a 383 taxicab motor. lol
Let's put it this way I'm looking for .4-.5 consistently maybe a little more for ease of installation...? I haven't done any tuning changes at the track. I've only tuned on street feel. I'm hoping to get a couple-few weeks in a row of taking passes and trying things. My timing is low. @33. I might be able to re jet and get more. Talked to Ken at Oregon cam today he was saying my cam is capable of making power up to 6500. "If the heads will support it". I've had my rev limiter on 66 and my shift light on at 58th so maybe I can spin it up a little and see if I got anything? I highly doubt the valves will float. I did take the rev limiter down to 64 the other day. Maybe take it to the ref bump and shift LOL
I think you can get 1.8's 60 ft. But the "playing" stops at the 40 ft. It needs to be all in, all go. 112 mph will get you into 11's, but you may have to ride the clutch a little to not spin but around the 25 ft mark you rpm's are up and the clutch is coming out. That is practice, but that will be an 11 second pass. No change of heads. No $$ exchanged either ... LOL
I think somewhere someone just brought up the clutch Tamer again. I think wheelburner is the man on that.
so you should be able to achieve 270's or so flow by .500 or .550 Im assuming they arent. so if you put 400 into someone who knew what theyre doing.. you could have a 270-280cfm set of heads. or spend 1200 and the hair of the dog is 10-15 cfm?
My 596's aren't stock. I spent a few days grinding in the pockets and also paid to have the machine shop cleaned up as well, but like you said I don't think it has an all-out effort inside the heads that I have. I could definitely do some intake Port matching that would probably help.
Lets just say this... ive spent a week+ at a time developing a port flow profile. Its time consuming, thats why its costly sometimes and or dying off.. I port per motor requirement.
I’m guessing the 596’s in question are nowhere near 270cfm. And I wouldn’t recommend spending any money on them to try and get them close. Most of the “home ported” variety of stock SB heads I’ve tested are usually in the 230 range. A proper valve job and bowl blend on the SM heads would put them in the 260 range. For a street/strip car with an 833, I’d expect to need more like 115+mph speed to be able to somewhat reliably get into the 11’s. Unless you’re able to whittle the 60’ times down beyond what is typical for that type of combo.
Your numbers on my 596 heads are much better than what I would have guessed. I'm just right now taking a wild guess that somehow I didn't hit every button on the mark As far as tuning. I'm having a hard time believing that I set the timing just perfect and the jetting just perfect and went out and did the best the car could do. Also I got my two step working again and maybe I can get just a little at the beginning. Now that the cages out and the cam is more mild and the gears are more comfortable along with the rest of the car I'm starting to use more fuel. Again I would like to not have to go get race gas to add and or have to carry some with me to pollute potential refills. I've just tried to weigh all my options how to get 1/2 second comfortably and use pump gas and it seems aluminum heads fit the bill all the way around.
With a solid cam you could tightlash and try to kill some bottom to help launch. plugs could possibly go 1 step hotter before you rejet
When I first got the mechanical cam I just picked a method and stuck with it and this was it.. The cam card calls for 22 and I set all at 19 cold.
Use the card too, but settum .006 tite /cold.