McLeod clutch questions

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1MeanA

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I put a McLeod street clutch in my '70 Swinger. I have to press on the pedal quite hard before the clutch switch is activated. It seems to hit the bottom of its travel before the pedal hits the floor almost like it needs a travel stop. I have removed the over center spring and I can move the fork about 1/4" before it touches. Is this normal?
 
Have you adjusted the clutch rod nut at the arm pivort? The a-body version is long, so if your is really short and not enough thread, you have the wrong one.

Also, if you z-bar pivots are shot, or non existent you'll get slop there too.
 
Have you adjusted the clutch rod nut at the arm pivort? The a-body version is long, so if your is really short and not enough thread, you have the wrong one.

Also, if you z-bar pivots are shot, or non existent you'll get slop there too.
Its all new/rebuilt. I have adjusted the rod to get the 1/4" free play.
 
Its all new/rebuilt. I have adjusted the rod to get the 1/4" free play.
Have you taken the inspection cover off and looked at the clearance between the T/O bearing surface and the pressure plate fingers? You should only have about 3/16" clearance at rest.
 
Its all new/rebuilt. I have adjusted the rod to get the 1/4" free play.

I have a McLeod clutch and I think I had to get closer than that to get things right. As long as the throw out is off the pressure plate fingers.
 
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I have a McLeod clutch and I think I had to get closer than that to get things right. As long as the throw out is off the pressure plate fingers.
The instructions said 1/4" but I wondered if that was too much. I'll give it a try.
 
I run their ceramic street strip version, feels just like a centerforce dual friction.. but holds a lot more power.
Long ago I extended the fork rod to get the pedal I want.
 
I run the McLeod set up. I removed my springs on my cars that have a new clutch. Clutch pedal works so much better
 
I run their ceramic street strip version, feels just like a centerforce dual friction.. but holds a lot more power.
Long ago I extended the fork rod to get the pedal I want.

the threaded adjusting rod? I don't see how lengthening would make any difference as it only controls free play and mine is long enough to get zero.


I run the McLeod set up. I removed my springs on my cars that have a new clutch. Clutch pedal works so much better
The over center spring is gone.
 
Not really familiar with the setup but, are you saying the clutch cover bottoms out before your pedal reaches the switch?
That sounds like the rod is too long.
 
Not really familiar with the setup but, are you saying the clutch cover bottoms out before your pedal reaches the switch?
That sounds like the rod is too long.
What is a clutch cover? The clutch pedal is at the end of its travel, limited by the clutch I think, before the pedal gets close to the floor meaning I have to press pretty hard to get the switch to engage.
 
I also had to make a fork pivot bracket out of steel that was taller. Just figured that was necessary for the lakewood bell I use.

The stock pivot bracket was cracking and not giving enough fork stroke.. aka a taller teeter for the totter lol
 
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