Mercury outboard question

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4spdragtop said:
Thanks all, looks like I was shorted a gasket in the Sierra impeller kit. The one that goes on under the steel base plate. I thought Sierra had done an "upgrade" and I installed wrong gasket :BangHead: Hey it fit...doh.
I had a Quicksliver kit that had the right gasket. It looks symmetrical, but it's not, same as base plate.
Of course the lower unit wouldnt go back in. Unbelievable. All day and i mean all day, then it finally went in. Lori came out a few times to help. Splines on top rod wouldnt engage properly. I pried the flywheel a few times to try to line up.
Literally torched my back a few times.
It's on and tightened, tomorrow I'll refill bottom end and fire up.
Thanks all.

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That's great news. It was pouring water more than I have seen as normal. Yes all is meant to self drain.
 
When your re-installing it helps to wiggle the control handle to move the splines back and forth once you have the gearcase almost back on, sometimes the flywheel to, and yes it helps to use the correct parts, lol
 
I tried the wiggle/jiggle and it wasnt working. Had lwr unit off and on more than 15-20 times. Just wouldn't go. Watched Boobtube and turning flywheel a tooth or 2 was mentioned. Finally dropped in. I'll add oil today and chk if my back agrees.
Thanks all.
71GSSDemon said:
That's great news. It was pouring water more than I have seen as normal. Yes all is meant to self drain.
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mopar56 said:
When your re-installing it helps to wiggle the control handle to move the splines back and forth once you have the gearcase almost back on, sometimes the flywheel to, and yes it helps to use the correct parts, lol
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Thanks Troy, 25 years!?!? Wow. I've "heard/read" impeller should be changed every other year.
No signs of issue with mine, just preventive maint. While doing degrading maint on back lol.
CFD244 said:
Great news Steve. Hopefully everything is straightened out........LOL, I have the original water pump in my 1996 Honda BF8 kicker that I have owned for 25 years. It just keeps ticking. I bought all of the seals and impeller kit 20 years ago with good intentions........
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4spdragtop said:
Thanks Troy, 25 years!?!? Wow. I've "heard/read" impeller should be changed every other year.
No signs of issue with mine, just preventive maint. While doing degrading maint on back lol.
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I agree, 25 years is pretty ridiculous (doing it this winter), but I wouldn't go any sooner than 5 years. I bought an older Honda BF45 for my pontoon boat that was abused, and sat for 10 years in a guys back yard. I did the lower unit when I was prepping it for the water and the thing was mint inside........Just my opinion.
 
4spdragtop said:
I tried the wiggle/jiggle and it wasnt working. Had lwr unit off and on more than 15-20 times. Just wouldn't go. Watched Boobtube and turning flywheel a tooth or 2 was mentioned. Finally dropped in. I'll add oil today and chk if my back agrees.
Thanks all.
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I had a bit of an issue with the spline engagement on that Chrysler as well. The spline ends, although tapered, had all sharp corners / edges. I stoned the sharpies off and it still wasn't a cakewalk to engage.
 
Lower units can be a pain, the more you remove and install them, the easier it gets. You just get a feel for it. I used to fight seemingly forever with them. Trim the engine up enough to get a decent approach angle, the twist and giggle, curse a bunch, etc. Thankfully, most of what I do now doesn't involve assembling things.
 
I've had this off at least once if not twice before, and was only a 20 sec wrestling match. Once I got the right gasket installed, that's when the fun started lol. Yep splines are tapered on this one as well Dave, but similar to a damn steering coupler, ya need to hold your tongue the right way.
The simple ****.. :BangHead: :lol:
Daves69 said:
I had a bit of an issue with the spline engagement on that Chrysler as well. The spline ends, although tapered, had all sharp corners / edges. I stoned the sharpies off and it still wasn't a cakewalk to engage.
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71GSSDemon said:
Lower units can be a pain, the more you remove and install them, the easier it gets. You just get a feel for it. I used to fight seemingly forever with them. Trim the engine up enough to get a decent approach angle, the twist and giggle, curse a bunch, etc. Thankfully, most of what I do now doesn't involve assembling things.
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4spdragtop said:
I've had this off at least once if not twice before, and was only a 20 sec wrestling match. Once I got the right gasket installed, that's when the fun started lol. Yep splines are tapered on this one as well Dave, but similar to a damn steering coupler, ya need to hold your tongue the right way.
The simple ****.. :BangHead: :lol:
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So, you are all set? Normal amount of leaks now??
 
5 years sounds good to me and my back! Me and the boat have a wish list that includes a pressure gauge and temp gauge but we will see. The psi gauge would be added piece of mind besides relying only on the tell tale.
CFD244 said:
I agree, 25 years is pretty ridiculous (doing it this winter), but I wouldn't go any sooner than 5 years. I bought an older Honda BF45 for my pontoon boat that was abused, and sat for 10 years in a guys back yard. I did the lower unit when I was prepping it for the water and the thing was mint inside........Just my opinion.
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While we're on the subject, any idea where to install a psi sensor? I know the gauge installs in panel lol.
 
71GSSDemon said:
but if you don't start in the morning, how can you drink all day?
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Lol, I normally don't, but when I do, I go "fishing" with my friends up in WI.:)
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4spdragtop said:
While we're on the subject, any idea where to install a psi sensor? I know the gauge installs in panel lol.
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Do you have your engine serial number? I can look it up and hopefully see a good location. I see it is a 90hp, but what vintage.
 
4spdragtop said:
Awesome! Thanks for that. Wasn't sure if trying into tell tale would be an accurate psi representation?
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It isnt as good as the fuel cooler hose or the block area, but would work. Block area would likely be most stable, just more of a pain if adapters are needed.
 
Water psi is more immediate than a temp gauge. Tells you right away if there is an issue vs overheat.
 
Refilled bottom end and all appears good, although I didnt like the chatter initially. Fogged cylinders and cleaned plugs. Gotta load it up with Damprid and bounce sheets.
Thanks all for the help. :thumbsup:
 
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