Mini Tubs

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capac

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Getting ready to mini tub my 64 valiant convertible. I've never done this before but I've watched a few videos and read a couple articles on the process. My wheel wells have 'caps' on the top as opposed to being a solid piece. I can't think of any reason why that would alter the approach, but thought I would run it by you folks. I know I still need to remove the braces for deck lid hinges and what not, but thought I would draw a cut line to show you what I was thinking.

Any advice you could throw my way would be greatly appreciated!! :thumbsup:

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That look's like a good place to cut, put it on the flattest surface you can find, so it's easier to join back together. Also give yourself a little lip around the radius to have something to attach it back to floor once you move it in, just a 1/2" is enough, it will get seam sealer on it anyway. Measure twice cut once! Man you convertible guy's have it made when doing mini tub's, christ I was all curled up in the trunk cutting blind on mine. A 6'4" 260lb guy doesn't fit too good in the trunk of a 69 dart, just an FYI, LOL! Looks good though take your time, you will be fine.

Jeff
 
That look's like a good place to cut, put it on the flattest surface you can find, so it's easier to join back together. Also give yourself a little lip around the radius to have something to attach it back to floor once you move it in, just a 1/2" is enough, it will get seam sealer on it anyway. Measure twice cut once! Man you convertible guy's have it made when doing mini tub's, christ I was all curled up in the trunk cutting blind on mine. A 6'4" 260lb guy doesn't fit too good in the trunk of a 69 dart, just an FYI, LOL! Looks good though take your time, you will be fine.

Jeff

Thanks for the reply! The whole process seems pretty straight forward, but it's all stuff that I've never done before. I'm hoping to start cutting in a week or two...
 
You just have to realize that you need to keep the same type cap on the new tubs or your top will not go down all the way, especially if you have a glass window. It is tough to get the trunk rods to work again as you will have to shorten your spring rods too, or try to weld the spring brackets on the tubs. Hope you don't plan on having a back seat too. Been there, done that.
 
HemiSSdart is correct about the back seat. You can alter it to go back in but when I moved my tubs the frame for the seat would not fit. I havent tried to alter it to go back in yet since I dont plan on having passengers but kept it because someday I may change my mind. As for the tubbing your lines look good. Now it just takes patience and time to get it back together once its cut. Getting to all the areas for welding was a pain but it will turn out fine for you! Best of luck.
Rod
 
Thanks for the tips! Since I'm redoing all of my upholstery anyway, I am planning on modifying the frames to fit. Hopefully it won't be too bad.

Also, 57 spot welds and one looong cut later... I managed to get one side out! Yay, for progress! Now for the hard part...

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Ended up cutting out 2 1/4 inches. So far everything has gone very smoothly. There are two brackets in the rear that are going to be a challenge, but I have some ideas on how to get everything lined up properly.

What are you guys coating the bare metal with after a job like this? I'm not ready to paint the whole body yet... I was thinking of using an rattle can epoxy primer. Suggestions?

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a thin coat of seam sealer might be just the ticket
 
a thin coat of seam sealer might be just the ticket

I was definitely going to seam seal the areas that are lap welded. It seems a little strange to put seam sealer the other parts of sheet metal that just happen to be bare. I'm not saying it's a bad idea, I guess I was just assuming that I should apply a paint-type product, not a silicon based product that comes out of a tube :D

So if I were to put a thin coat of seam sealer on most of the wheel well; would this make it more difficult to get back down to bare metal when it comes time for paint (few seasons or so)?

Thanks!
 
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