Modified TTI Z-Bar

-
It would make sense if they sold the modified ball stud bracket to go along with it.
It's like selling you a fix with a problem.
 
i have one that some one modified even more , i want to say they put a bend in the arm that conncets tothe link bar that goes to the clutch fork . the one i have is modified more but I'm not sure why the guy I bought it from did it ?

I think the mod to the Z bar bracket is to just grind for clearance of the moded arm , I never did install it as the stock arms clears the head pipes I had made , no headers here .
 
They`re producing this bar, cause their claim of their hedders fitting auto and 4spd. cars was pure bulls***! :angry7: Enough people probaby called them on it. I had to remove and reposition clutch rod crank, thus probably screwing up geometry. I have really high pedal effort. feels like I`m gonna blow the back of the seat out. otherwise, they`re nice hedders8)
 
Here is what the previous owner did to my z-bar. Maybe this will help clear up a little bit on what TTI did to their z-bar. Notice how mine was cut and moved closer to the transmission. All I had to do to the z-bar was grind a 1/8" off the bottom of the arm that is closest to the TTI header to keep it off one of the header tubes.... that was it!

It might look funny but it works!:toothy10:

DSC01402.jpg
 
Fit with Headers thats what they told me too.No way not even close with a 383 4 speed.I had to use a hydraulic clutch was not happy about it at all.
Jim
 
Burntorange70 said:
For a 100 bucks I think I will mod my own.
Click to expand...


That's right!

For $101 plus shipping.... heck I'm proud of mine.

You can't see it in the picture but my bar is welded also on the other side... it's very strong. Who ever did the welding meant business.

3.jpg
 
cudaspaz said:
It would make sense if they sold the modified ball stud bracket to go along with it.
It's like selling you a fix with a problem.
Click to expand...


Looking at my pictures I guess you say that the ball stud has been modified on mine also... right?

NOTE:

I also need to point out that my bellhousing is not the stock bellhousing but a "scatter shield type". This might have a lot to do with everyone wanting to use my pic to help set theres up or something.
 
At $101 I think I'd be looking at changing over to a hydraulic clutch set-up.
 
LS-300 said:
At $101 I think I'd be looking at changing over to a hydraulic clutch set-up.
Click to expand...
If you know of a junk yard conversion, I`m all ears or eyes. All the aftermarket conversion, packages, I`ve seen want 5-$650.00 big ones. For a 100. or less I`ll be on the junkyard prowl:cheers:
 
Check out this link from Chucks classic cars. http://chucksclassiccars.com/index.php?cruising=products&item=HYC833&category=Specials

There is a used one on e-bay right now if anyone is interested. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290287844208&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

It is a pull type slave cylinder. Looks to me like a bracket must be made to bolt to the trans inspection cover. I have another link on my home pc where some guy did a good job documenting the install on a older Jeep PU. Has anyone had any experience with this type of set up?

Looking through Jegs and summit I think you could buy the parts less the mounting bracket for right around $200.
 
Looks interesting put how much room does this free up?
 
Not Sure!! But I think I am going to find out. If I do it I'll put a parts list together and make some extra slave cylinder brackets for cheap in case anyone on FABO or BBD wants one.

The test mule will be my 69 Cuda which is a small block car. Still, we should get a good idea of how it will work out.
 
Keep us posted as I my be interested as well.
 
68383GTS said:
Really if this works for a 383 I want to know about it.
Jim[/QUOTE
Bringing up an old chat, I installed TTI headers on my 383 in my 69 barracuda and the modified z bar is too short. Even purchased the brewers ball stud that TTI recommends and it’s not aligned correctly. It’s almost like the TTI zbar is just too short and I’m scratching my head. The car came with the 71 b body spool mounts so that could be part of the issue as it came with what looks like a modified zbar to work with the factory manifolds. Anyone had issues like this? Or do I keep finding problems
Click to expand...
 
I went through all of this. My car had a 10 7/8" fork. Should be 12 1/2"". Ended up buying a new stock z bar and modifying the ball bracket that attaches to the Lakewood. Just do what you have to do to get the geometry correct. I looked at hyd too, no free lunch, go back and look through the threads.
 
Last edited:
I wouldn't do that mod until you get the bellhousing bracket squared away.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top