Moog offset pic

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Kendog 170

Let the boy go !
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Is this correct? Uca needs to move back? Why was I thinking forward?

Moog.png
 
Correct. They used to include the exact opposite directions which were a misprint and messed a lot of people up over the years. In essence, you lengthen the control arm in the front and shorten it in the rear.
 
Yup. You want the front A arm bolt to move the arm OUTWARD from the center of the vehicle, and you want the rear A arm bolt to move the arm INWARD towards the center of the car
 

Correct. They used to include the exact opposite directions which were a misprint and messed a lot of people up over the years. In essence, you lengthen the control arm in the front and shorten it in the rear.
I didn't know that, and I'll bet mine are in backwards. The front end was the first thing I did during the rebuild; a long time ago. The alignment guy said he could barely get caster to 0-1* positive. Now I've got to check.
 
Its important to note that the picture posted above is not the original instructions to these bushings and is not included in their box. These bushings were originally released by Moog to address camber issues in fatigued cars, so the OEM instructions were set up to support an increase in camber, not caster. The last set I picked up a few weeks ago still show this.

Its only over the last 25-30 years that we have started using these to address caster adjustments which requires a different set-up, which is what the instructions posted above address. The instructions above were created by a member on Moparts in the 90s and have been distributed world wide ever since.

If you took a couple of boxes of these to a shop and asked them to install them, odds are they did it per the instructions in the box, not what is pictured above, unless you removed the original instructions and gave them this exact illustration.
 
I didn't know that, and I'll bet mine are in backwards. The front end was the first thing I did during the rebuild; a long time ago. The alignment guy said he could barely get caster to 0-1* positive. Now I've got to check.
They might be, but be careful. I think they FINALLY corrected it after decades. lol
 
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People clarified the directions. Moog didn't change the DE-structions. IIRC
That is the same picture I recall from 30 years ago.

Who puts the front of the car at the bottom of the illustration, still that way. Dumb
Also people would install and think the arrows were where the HOLES went and not the direction of actual arrows on the bushings
 
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I didn't know that, and I'll bet mine are in backwards. The front end was the first thing I did during the rebuild; a long time ago. The alignment guy said he could barely get caster to 0-1* positive. Now I've got to check.
Since I changed my tire size I have an alignment date for Friday. I did offset bushings last year and wasn't impressed with the alignment and couldn't remember if I had them right. Took both UCA's out and checked last night. All is correct.
 
People clarified the directions. Moog didn't change the DE-structions. IIRC
That is the same picture I recall from 30 years ago.

Who puts the front of the car at the bottom of the illustration, still that way. Dumb
Also people would install and think the arrows were where the HOLES went and not the direction of actual arrows on the bushings
I've seen a lot and I mean a LOT of incorrect directions in those bushings straight from Moog.
 
Since I changed my tire size I have an alignment date for Friday. I did offset bushings last year and wasn't impressed with the alignment and couldn't remember if I had them right. Took both UCA's out and checked last night. All is correct.

The offset bushings are pretty much only good for adding a couple degrees of caster. While some people have had success getting as much at +4° of caster with them, you have to remember that alignment settings are also ride height and front/rear rake dependent. And of course, factory tolerances. It's more common to only be able to get into the +3° range with the offset UCA bushings.

Depending on the use of the car that can be fine, for a street cruiser with 215's or 225's up front that's enough to keep things returning to center. However, if you're running wide tires up front, say, 245+, you'll likely need more than that to tame the wide front tires. But at that point you probably want tubular UCA's anyway.
 
Directions from earlier package of Moog K7103.
Moog K-7013 Instructions_1986.jpg


Directions from later package, around 2010.
Moog K-7013 Instructions_2010.jpg


Difference in packages:
IMG_20250911_192445691_AE~2.jpg


You can look them over closely, but all that stood out to me was the removal of the reference to Moog Automotive St. Louis.
 
If you run poly strut rod the rear one is too thick cut it down 3/16’ and cut the inner sleeve the same amount.

The little things add up.

The knowledge and effort of the alignment technician is a makes a huge difference.

1757657541618.jpeg
 
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