Hope this is not true. Moog Offset Upper control arm bushings.

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Think about this for a minuet. This is impossible. The car would be turning to the left. In order to go straight, toe must be equal from side to side. To go straight, total toe is divided equally. Now I'm not disagreeing that this condition would not have some tire wear due to the application of the Ackerman steering geometry coming into play.
That is true about toe if there are no other forces acting on the car. When another force causes the car to pull in one direction you will have to turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction to maintain straight ahead. This force could be caused by caster, the road crown, tire pressure, or the wind to name a few.
 
Nope. Caster by itself does not wear tires. You're just wrong if you think that and have learned it wrong wrong wrong. I certainly wouldn't want you aligning anything I own. Since I cannot get through, I'm stopping right here.
We can politely agree to disagree.
 
That is true about toe if there are no other forces acting on the car. When another force causes the car to pull in one direction you will have to turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction to maintain straight ahead. This force could be caused by caster, the road crown, tire pressure, or the wind to name a few.
Turning to go straight. I get it.
 
Caster lifts one side of the car by the angles of the spindle .
When you turn the wheel it lifts one side or the other.
Returning to straight is a product of equalizing the weight/height on each wheel, relative to each other .
A bicycle has pos caster, adding/reducing caster doesn't affect tire wear .
 
An example, - take an ordinary open house door hinge, straight up and down, on a tabletop, one side is the frame, the other, the wheel, pivot being the kingpin, it swings both ways, left turn, right turn, - lean it 30* (add caster) and flex it, at some point it lifts the kingpin/frame , - the more lean(caster) - the more you're lifting the frame/car .

When you release the steering wheel after a turn, you let go of the "jack handle" holding up one side of the car .
 
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Bushings were only $35, I thought ok , even if it only helps a little, I want it.
Tuning a suspension and tuning an engine is the same philosophy
All I can say is my car is soo much more enjoyable to drive since I installed my offset bushings. Tracks much nicer on the hyway and centers nice when letting go of the steering wheel.
Yes maybe something changed from the last alignment but I don't think so (I use the same guy). If OP installs them correctly I don't think he will regret doing so. I do like the tubular arms but being frugal and having stock arms in great shape I'll spend my money elsewhere. JMO
 
These cars were targeted to family, little old lady, shopping vehicles, like the Novas, Comets comparables. Performance wasn't the target.
The factory caster specs were near 0, I believe some were Neg caster, like a shopping buggy front wheel, you know how they track.
You crank in a buncha caster into a little old ladies car with manual steering, and she won't be able to maneuver in a parking lot, it just takes so much more strength to turn the wheel at slow speed, and she'll let you know about it ! ! - lol
The offset bushings let you get to + 3*ish degrees where +2 was generally max, if lucky .
3* was such a vast improvement .
5* is kinda like putting a blower on a grocery getter, but with power steering who cares, the power steering lifts the car .
 
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These cars were targeted to family, little old lady, shopping vehicles, like the Novas, Comets comparables. Performance wasn't the target.
The factory caster specs were near 0, I believe some were Neg caster, like a shopping buggy front wheel, you know how they track.
You crank in a buncha caster into a little old ladies car with manual steering, and she won't be able to maneuver in a parking lot, it just takes so much more strength to turn the wheel at slow speed, and she'll let you know about it ! ! - lol
This ignores the effect of the bias ply tires that these cars were designed with. The factory caster settings for these cars had just as much to do with the OE bias ply tires as they did the use of the cars at the time and the target audience.

It's already been said, but the construction of the bias ply tire actually adds a re-centering effect to the steering. They don't need as much static caster because of the dynamic effects of the tire's construction. The moment you change to radial tires you lose that effect, and you get a car that wanders around. It doesn't matter who the target audience is, you need more positive caster with radial tires to maintain stability. Which, if you look at the specs for the later F/M/J cars that came with radial tires ('77+), you see they called for much more positive caster than the bias ply cars did and they had the same exact target audience.

Dodge Diplomat alignment specs...
Screenshot 2023-09-21 at 9.51.59 AM.png

The offset bushings let you get to + 3*ish degrees where +2 was generally max, if lucky .
3* is such a vast improvement .
5* is kinda like putting a blower on a grocery getter, but with power steering who cares .

+3° is really the minimum that should be used with any modern radial on these cars to keep the car from wandering. And that's really just for the narrower kind of tires you'd see on 15" rims. Go much wider than a 235 up front and you need more to counter the tracking effects you get as the tires get wider.

+5° is no big deal at all, even with manual steering. Most modern cars run +8° or more. SRT Challenger specs are like +10°. Yes, the design of the suspension does matter, so some of that comes down to suspension design characteristics. But a lot of it is tire construction and size, and the wide front tires on modern performance cars are a big part of the large positive caster numbers they have for alignment specs. Wide front tires tend to track, and more positive caster counteracts that.

I've run everything from about +3.5° up to +8° on my Duster. With 275/35/18's up front the sweet spot I've found is between +6° and +6.5° of caster. Less than that and the 275's start to take you where they want to go. More than that and the steering effort starts to increase exponentially, much faster than the improvement in stability you get. But between +6° and +6.5° the steering is very stable, the steering effort isn't terrible, and the jacking effect from the additional caster on turn in isn't disruptive to the handling. And I run 16:1 manual steering.
 
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