Mopar 350 Stroker

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No it's not wrong. You sure sound like a pro engine builder coming at me like you're pro. You know what we all start from the bottom as novice builders and learn from our mistakes into doing better. You know what I have no clue what the last owner all had into that 318 engine except for the LAST OWNER had Chevrolet small block connecting rods and Chevrolet pistons in it. The man was in his mid 70's so yeah he was old school and had ways he built his engines I am sure. So many of you coming at me like I am the one who built the engine need to understand something. I DIDN'T BUILD THE ENGINE, I BOUGHT THE ENGINE FROM THE VERY KIND GENTLEMAN. I bought the engine because I was going to buy it for a build myself. I didn't have a clue he had filler concrete mix in it until I was wondering why it weighed more than my 87 318 which is a standard block with nothing in it. After picking many brains on Facebook in what it was used for made sense in why the last owner did what he did. I am going to build it for drag racing with nothing but Mopar parts in it, with or without any of yall's help.

and here's the thing: you don't know that there were chevy rods and pistons in that thing! you think there were because somebody told you that. but unless it was together with that ****? it's all hearsay.

you don't and won't know a damn thing about this block until it goes to the machine shop. and that's a fact, jack. you can wish and hope and dream all you want about what it was or could be, but that is worth zero-pooint-zero until you establish what the *actual* specs of that block are.

until you have a machine shop look at it and TELL YOU what the deck height is and what the mains are and other critical measurements all you're doing is jacking a jaw about some magic beans you bought.

you want help, you came to the right place. but ain't nobody gonna be able to help you along if you won't listen.
 
Well I did some digging, found some aftermarket parts that will work for what I need that are Mopar and not Chevrolet.
Trust me when I tell you, it’s not the Chevy parts that bother anyone. Especially me. I have a Honda engine in my ford. It’s the process you’re trying to use to get where you want to go.
 
Well I did some digging, found some aftermarket parts that will work for what I need that are Mopar and not Chevrolet.

Well I did some digging, found some aftermarket parts that will work for what I need that are Mopar and not Chevrolet.
The 3.58” stroke crankshaft migrated into the 318 combination is someone’s back yard. (See YouTube…).

The origin was derived from using the 3.58” stroke in a more desirable bore diameter of the 340 block. For instance 4.07” bore gives the builder his best option for un-shrouding the intake valve to release his maximum potential. And still using off the shelf parts aka “low dollar hauler.”

The small bore combination would likely make a decent truck motor. There are to many counterproductive variables to consider it a “performance build.”

The forum has given you sound advice. Personally, I wish you the best of luck.
 
I honestly think you'd be much better off with a stock stroke 318. You'll have matching parts, less machine work, less total cost and you'll still get your feet wet and learn something.
 
I honestly think you'd be much better off with a stock stroke 318. You'll have matching parts, less machine work, less total cost and you'll still get your feet wet and learn something.
Your on point.

My Power-Wagon lost a lung a couple years ago. With the sick pig (318) pulled down I looked over at a pile of 360's rotating assemblies in the shop...

After looking into the abomination, I called Delta Cams in Wa. He ground a decent stick for the "teen" and I'm happy that I didn't succumb to the "YouTube engineers."
 
I honestly think you'd be much better off with a stock stroke 318. You'll have matching parts, less machine work, less total cost and you'll still get your feet wet and learn something.
Would stock stroke 318 crank handle about 540-550 hp and I am not sure what the torque would be but if so I got another 318 crankshaft that's laying around. What honestly do I need for hp/tq for late 12's class in drag racing? Potrie's Garage put his 318 into a D150 did hell of good with it. I was going to put it into a 97 Dodge Dakota single cab shortbed.
 
Would stock stroke 318 crank handle about 540-550 hp and I am not sure what the torque would be but if so I got another 318 crankshaft that's laying around. What honestly do I need for hp/tq for late 12's class in drag racing? Potrie's Garage put his 318 into a D150 did hell of good with it. I was going to put it into a 97 Dodge Dakota single cab shortbed.
You need way less power than that to run 12s.
 

Dakota is a good start. RRR is right, but a few more HP will get you some ground when the "experience racer" leaves you at the light!
Well in the end you take you're loses, enjoy the fun part of it and the adrenaline rush that's gets you when you drag race. Maybe someday after we ran the 318 for a good time, I'll probably move up to 360 next.
 
Well in the end you take you're loses, enjoy the fun part of it and the adrenaline rush that's gets you when you drag race. Maybe someday after we ran the 318 for a good time, I'll probably move up to 360 next.
Look for some "345" castings if there are some wreakers near you. You'll find them on mid 80's 4bbl 318 pick ups and old Diplomat cop cars. They work well with a small ci engine. And deck the snot out of them!
 
Would stock stroke 318 crank handle about 540-550 hp and I am not sure what the torque would be but if so I got another 318 crankshaft that's laying around. What honestly do I need for hp/tq for late 12's class in drag racing? Potrie's Garage put his 318 into a D150 did hell of good with it. I was going to put it into a 97 Dodge Dakota single cab shortbed.

How did you decide you need that power.

I’m telling you I made over 700 hp at 8200 and shifted at 8500 and sometimes over that with a ******* 273 crank. And a 318 POLY crank.

Find an engine builder who can help you. You are just shitting in your own kitchen.

Stepping on your own dick to prove something is idiotic at best.

And I know this as FACT because I do it all the time myself.

Here my last free advice.

You want your build to be the equivalent of running a marathon and you can’t even crawl yet.

In other words you need to set your goal way lower and then learn how to deal with an engine at that level.

I can’t tell you much **** I trashed learning how to make 2 hp/cid at 8k plus. It is NOT easy and anyone says that it is, is either lying or they haven’t done it.

Learn to crawl. Get your balance. Then walk. Then run. Then work to the marathon.

I am out.
 
Here my last free advice.

You want your build to be the equivalent of running a marathon and you can’t even crawl yet.

In other words you need to set your goal way lower and then learn how to deal with an engine at that level.

I can’t tell you much **** I trashed learning how to make 2 hp/cid at 8k plus. It is NOT easy and anyone says that it is, is either lying or they haven’t done it.

Learn to crawl. Get your balance. Then walk. Then run. Then work to the marathon.
You said a mouthful, but it's all true.
Myself I wouldn't consider starting with a bare 318 block if I wanted to run 12's when I could build a mild 360 and do it easy for far less coin.
 
What honestly do I need for hp/tq for late 12's class in drag racing?
not 550hp!
325-400??? I'm gutting out the whole Dodge Dakota and starting from scratch.
in a properly prepped dedicated racer, that's about what you'd need. a 3500lb car can run 12.20's with 375hp

a stock dakota curb weight is 3500... so less once gutted...

here's 400hp


only instead of the magnum RT heads, use speedmaster or eddies and if it's a dedicated drag car, go a little more wild on the cam. add a bunch of gear and really good converter and it'll blast deep 12's all day.

or skip ahead and get a 390 stroker kit. that's the easy button.

*edit: converter!
 
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not 550hp!

in a properly prepped dedicated racer, that's about what you'd need. a 3500lb car can run 12.20's with 375hp

a stock dakota curb weight is 3500... so less once gutted...

here's 400hp


only instead of the magnum RT heads, use speedmaster or eddies and if it's a dedicated drag car, go a little more wild on the cam. add a bunch of gear and really good cam and it'll blast deep 12's all day.

or skip ahead and get a 390 stroker kit. that's the easy button.
I think it's time for a @318willrun 440 motorhome engine.
 
No it's not wrong. You sure sound like a pro engine builder coming at me like you're pro. You know what we all start from the bottom as novice builders and learn from our mistakes into doing better. You know what I have no clue what the last owner all had into that 318 engine except for the LAST OWNER had Chevrolet small block connecting rods and Chevrolet pistons in it. The man was in his mid 70's so yeah he was old school and had ways he built his engines I am sure. So many of you coming at me like I am the one who built the engine need to understand something. I DIDN'T BUILD THE ENGINE, I BOUGHT THE ENGINE FROM THE VERY KIND GENTLEMAN. I bought the engine because I was going to buy it for a build myself. I didn't have a clue he had filler concrete mix in it until I was wondering why it weighed more than my 87 318 which is a standard block with nothing in it. After picking many brains on Facebook in what it was used for made sense in why the last owner did what he did. I am going to build it for drag racing with nothing but Mopar parts in it, with or without any of yall's help.
You sound like a pidgen. He was nice selling you a block and other parts you can't use.
I have a bridge and also water front property if ya looking.
 
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