Mopar 350 Stroker

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You sound like a pidgen. He was nice selling you a block and other parts you can't use.
I have a bridge and also water front property if ya looking.
Actually until @Garrett Ellison done looking up everything I have that might be different story. I'll let Garrett tell everyone in what he found that I've got. Since me and him been talking back in forth.
 
After having PO take some rudimentary measurements and find some numbers, rods are unmodified Eagle SIR6.125BBLW 5140 steel units. But the Ross piston numbers are actually a 318 NHRA stock replacement unit that have been ordered with Chevrolet pin size and custom deck height. So it does look like the block he has that those pistons fit into was probably put together with a crank turned to fit those rods. But I also encourage the OP to mash the easy button and go with a 318 with factory type rotating assembly, keep the bore size at a minimum to stay safe with the cylinder walls, and use some Icon dome pistons in it. Saving up for some AFR or Trick Flows would take it next level, but 308 casting heads fitted with 1.94/1.60 and some bowl work wouldn’t be a bad starting point.
 
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Actually until @Garrett Ellison done looking up everything I have that might be different story. I'll let Garrett tell everyone in what he found that I've got. Since me and him been talking back in forth.
Nobody has to tell us anything, Sparky. We knew you had a pile of junk, LONG before Garrett was nice enough to confirm it. He's really nice like that.
 
After having PO take some rudimentary measurements and find some numbers, rods are unmodified Eagle SIR6.125BBLW 5140 steel units. But the Ross piston numbers are actually a 318 NHRA stock replacement unit that have been ordered with Chevrolet pin size and custom deck height. So it does look like the block he has that those pistons fit into was probably put together with a crank turned to fit those rods. But I also encourage the OP to mash the easy button and go with a 318 with factory type rotating assembly, keep the bore size at a minimum to stay safe with the cylinder walls, and use some Icon dome pistons in it. Saving up for some AFR or Trick Flows would take it next level, but 308 casting heads fitted with 1.94/1.60 and some bowl work wouldn’t be a bad starting point.
I think a 5.2 Magnum would be a really nice beginning engine, too.
 
That or a late hydraulic roller 318 block. But magnum heads with a Hughes spring kit and an custom hydraulic roller from Ken at Oregon would definitely work.
 
That or a late hydraulic roller 318 block. But magnum heads with a Hughes spring kit and an custom hydraulic roller from Ken at Oregon would definitely work.
One of those would be the tits too, but those cores are really aging now. The Magnums ain't spring chickens anymore, either.
 
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I think a 5.2 Magnum would be a really nice beginning engine, too.

That or a late hydraulic roller 318 block. But magnum heads with a Hughes spring kit and an custom hydraulic roller from Ken at Oregon would definitely work.

and you know what OP has, and isn't concrete filled? an 87 roller motor.

hmmmm....
 
If it ain't wore slam out, then there you bees.
puh-xactly.

that plus a 390 stroker kit, some aftermarket heads and get ken to regrind the cam. drop it in a gutted dak with a 4 link and go hurt some feelings.

worked with a guy who had basically that set up in an S10 with a wheeze bag smogged up 400 backed by a TH400 that had a B&M hole shot and 9" w/ 4.11's the thing was a total steaming pile and it was infuriating because the damn thing would dead hook and just leave. people were always big mad and he won a lot of races in the first 90ft
 
puh-xactly.

that plus a 390 stroker kit, some aftermarket heads and get ken to regrind the cam. drop it in a gutted dak with a 4 link and go hurt some feelings.

worked with a guy who had basically that set up in an S10 with a wheeze bag smogged up 400 backed by a TH400 that had a B&M hole shot and 9" w/ 4.11's the thing was a total steaming pile and it was infuriating because the damn thing would dead hook and just leave. people were always big mad and he won a lot of races in the first 90ft
He'd hurt some feelins with a stock stroke.
 
After having PO take some rudimentary measurements and find some numbers, rods are unmodified Eagle SIR6.125BBLW 5140 steel units. But the Ross piston numbers are actually a 318 NHRA stock replacement unit that have been ordered with Chevrolet pin size and custom deck height. So it does look like the block he has that those pistons fit into was probably put together with a crank turned to fit those rods. But I also encourage the OP to mash the easy button and go with a 318 with factory type rotating assembly, keep the bore size at a minimum to stay safe with the cylinder walls, and use some Icon dome pistons in it. Saving up for some AFR or Trick Flows would take it next level, but 308 casting heads fitted with 1.94/1.60 and some bowl work wouldn’t be a bad starting point.
Good on ya for taking the time and making the effort. Hopefully some thick skin has been made a little thinner and the ears are open wider than the mouth. Thanks Garrett.
 
Here I was just wantin to see some carnage. I mean ya give someone good advice and they throw it back atchya and you kinda wanna see the chips fall where they may. lol
 
Good on ya for taking the time and making the effort. Hopefully some thick skin has been made a little thinner and the ears are open wider than the mouth. Thanks Garrett.
We don’t need to curb his enthusiasm, just direct in the direction it needs to go so he doesn’t have a bad time while trying to learn and have fun.
 
We don’t need to curb his enthusiasm, just direct in the direction it needs to go so he doesn’t have a bad time while trying to learn and have fun.


There is a difference between curbing enthusiasm and getting a guy to stop thinking he has a clue and helping him get a clue.

He’s having a bad time learning because the guys trying to help him are seen by him as an enemy. Im used to it. I don’t indulge people in things I won’t do. Mostly because I’ve already done them and learned that it was dumb. And it cost me a huge amount of money.

This is a man’s business. He needs to be able to take criticism not as a slam but as a way for him to STOP and THINK and LEARN but mostly to UNLEARN.

The unlearning is a real *****. I hate unlearning and relearning more than anything. So I try and nip that in the bud long before the cash starts stacking like cord wood.
 
There is a difference between curbing enthusiasm and getting a guy to stop thinking he has a clue and helping him get a clue.

He’s having a bad time learning because the guys trying to help him are seen by him as an enemy. Im used to it. I don’t indulge people in things I won’t do. Mostly because I’ve already done them and learned that it was dumb. And it cost me a huge amount of money.

This is a man’s business. He needs to be able to take criticism not as a slam but as a way for him to STOP and THINK and LEARN but mostly to UNLEARN.

The unlearning is a real *****. I hate unlearning and relearning more than anything. So I try and nip that in the bud long before the cash starts stacking like cord wood.
This: "The unlearning is a real *****. I hate unlearning and relearning more than anything."

Agreed! It took me a while to stop buying "catalog cams" and find a cam grinder willing to help me squeeze the most out of an old Mopar.

When I had the last block done, my machinist said; "you must have a shelf full of used camshafts by now..."
 
this whole thread is TL;DR BUT if you want a 350 CID small block on the cheap, a 360 crank turned down to 318 mains, stock rods, stock 9.6" deck height and these pistons:

Silv-o-lite 1278's More Information for SILV-O-LITE 1278 end up .029" in the hole,

or these pistons:
SEALED POWER 285AP More Information for SEALED POWER 285AP end up .033" out of the hole....

if you're deck runs a little tall, might be OK with a thicker (.05-.055") head gasket and closed chambered heads with the sealed power slugs....

would only do it in a factory roller cam block (LA or magnum), personally.....
 
Thanks Garrett for taking the time to help the op identify his parts, and I am sure, make a few helpful suggestions!
When I hear the phrase, "learn by my mistakes " it tends to identify persons of a certain age. I think the current generation tends to learn by, the internet, by forums, and by YouTube videos.
I think we all know of bad advice given out on these platforms where you post for help, and you get a deluge of obviously wrong advice/answers, so you harden your brain to the bad advice while looking for a nugget of help. I think that is what happened here.
What the OP probably doesn't know, is that doesn't apply to the FABO group who are actually knowledgeable, at a level I have not seen on other forums.
Perhaps a little early, but Merry Christmas all!
 
this whole thread is TL;DR BUT if you want a 350 CID small block on the cheap, a 360 crank turned down to 318 mains, stock rods, stock 9.6" deck height and these pistons:

Silv-o-lite 1278's More Information for SILV-O-LITE 1278 end up .029" in the hole,

or these pistons:
SEALED POWER 285AP More Information for SEALED POWER 285AP end up .033" out of the hole....

if you're deck runs a little tall, might be OK with a thicker (.05-.055") head gasket and closed chambered heads with the sealed power slugs....

would only do it in a factory roller cam block (LA or magnum), personally.....
No I'm not doing a 350 Stroker.
 
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