what happened with that 87 318 you picked up for a truck you were doing?
Mopar 350 Stroker
- Thread starter Racingcowboy89
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what happened with that 87 318 you picked up for a truck you were doing?
Racingcowboy89
Well-Known Member
Right there the 87 318 blue engine. Still have trying to build the 87 as I am building the 73.
Aren't SBM's generally filled to the bottom of the water pump holes.
RRR, each of those lines are 1/2 thousands or .00005 I believe.
Ive filled them to the water pump holes and to the top of the freeze plugs.
I’ll never do it again.
If I did I’d fill it to the bottom of the freeze plugs and send it.
Any more than that and all you do is add weight.
Some straight up race engines are filled to the bottom of the water pump inlet holes. Usually on a methanol application because the high latent heat of evaporation of methanol works with the higher stochiometric volume of fuel to cool the engine. Does the block have main studs in it?
I did not know that.
It's tough reading one upside down and backwards on the internet. LOL
Like Turk said. So much weight… I’d imagine close to fifty pounds per side based on the amount of water below the water pump holes when draining the block out.
Yeah with methanol you don't even need a coolin system.
just wondering why you'd undertake such an ambitious project when you had difficulty with the basically stock 87 build that seems to not be done yet. like, why add that level of complexity to your life?
i'm not trying to rain on your parade, but you seem headed for deep uncharted waters on this one and you can blow a whole *** pile of money on what if's and maybe in this situation. if you don't have intimate, granular knowledge with these motors or building race spec motors or know who put this thing together in the first place (and they remember all of those details) i can pretty much gar-un-tee this ends in heartache and a lighter wallet.
Tractor pullers are infamous for ditching the cooling system. Weight really isn’t a concern there when filling the block.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Half a thousandth would be .0005.
Theoretically, that mic will read to .0001. But that accuracy depends GREATLY on the touch of the guy handling the mic.
And a bit of abuse..... and it'll be lucky to be within .005.
(How many times was It used as a c-clamp?)
You definitely need to educate yourself as thoroughly as possible before embarking on this level of endeavor. Getting some practical knowledge of the subject is the first step. I haven’t looked at this one in person but it looks like a step in the right direction if you’re wanting to take on this commitment. It’s always what you don’t know that sneaks up to bite you.
Modern Engine Blueprinting Techniques: A... book by Mike Mavrigian
Modern Engine Blueprinting Techniques: A... book by Mike Mavrigian
Racingcowboy89
Well-Known Member
Well maybe because I bought the 73 318 drag racing engine 1st before I even thought I would have to buy a 2nd 318. I was already buying parts for the 318 drag racing as many told me (before this post last night) that it only be used for drag racing only, which worked for me. As I had seen Gary's Garage, and 6 other people use the 318 for drag racing. So many people told on Facebook groups that I have to put a big oil cooler to the engine to keep it cool. I was under the impression that the eagle connecting rods were 318(6.123) until yesterday the neighbor told me that the connecting rods were 6.125 which came back to Chevrolet small block connecting rods. So after doing some talking on Facebook, finding out if the last owner "DID" used a Mopar 360 crank and these 060 over pistons that he probably built a Mopar 350 Stroker.
Good point. That’s likely where the builders focus was, when he created his combination:$$
Racingcowboy89
Well-Known Member
You know back in the old days they didn't have today's technology probably. So the last gentleman who had bought the engine was an old school gear head probably who knew how to use other Mopar and Chevrolet parts to build a race engine out of 318.
I’m not knocking your short block. Having the crankshaft turned down or offset ground ain’t cheap. Nor is fielding a set of heads capable of getting you into the high end if 400hp.
I’d save the heads for sure. The crankshaft too if I was going to develop another long block. Perhaps he found a 340 block to take his hypotheses up a notch.
Racingcowboy89
Well-Known Member
If the last owner did some darn fine racing with the engine, than I don't see why it couldn't win me some darn good races.
i just... wow. i uh... don't know what to say.
look man, once you deviate from stock: all.bets.are.off.
and you know what happens when all bets are off? money. that's what happens.
in this instance you'd be miles ahead toward reaching your goal starting with something else.
I’m old. And all the builders I know who are older than me wouldn’t build what you want.
Technology means what? Go look at what Pro Stock and Modified Eliminator in the 1970’s and tell me they built junk.
I reiterate. If you wanna 350, here's your boy. LOL
Exactly. My friends father ran an early Vet. Perhaps it was modified eliminator. I’ve never seen pistons with so much ingenuity:”Light is right.” The Wally was on the counter right next to the pistons…
I ain't going tell you what to do. But if I was YOU, I'd ask around and find a local-ish high performance machine shop. I also would just have it inspected and ask bunch of predetermined specific questions before I had any work done on it, like these bores sized for these pistons? And what can realistily use this block/combo for. I'd have the main bore alignment checked along with trueness of both decks. If there are no cam bearings in it, check size and condition of the cam tunnel. Then the size and trueness of the lifter bores. Main cap fitment. Look for stripped or weak threads in all tapped holes.
I'd go to who I think is the best shop first.
Put a parts game plan together with a realistic budget.
Then I'd go get some other opinions and prices from a couple other shops.
DON'T go to Arizona Speed & Marine.
I'd go to who I think is the best shop first.
Put a parts game plan together with a realistic budget.
Then I'd go get some other opinions and prices from a couple other shops.
DON'T go to Arizona Speed & Marine.
33IMP
Well-Known Member
My guess?
The reason to use chevy parts in a Mopar is because they are usually way lighter, more available, and cheaper. But the custom work necessary always eats up any savings on parts cost.
I'm only minimally familiar with sbm, but big block mopar strokers typically use chevy rods and matching pistons for several reasons. Primarily a much lighter piston pin, and more lower end stroker rod clearance.
I do not know why anyone would use them in your motor.
The reason to use chevy parts in a Mopar is because they are usually way lighter, more available, and cheaper. But the custom work necessary always eats up any savings on parts cost.
I'm only minimally familiar with sbm, but big block mopar strokers typically use chevy rods and matching pistons for several reasons. Primarily a much lighter piston pin, and more lower end stroker rod clearance.
I do not know why anyone would use them in your motor.
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