Mopar colors in aerosol.

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dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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Does anyone know if they make original factory colors in aerosol cans? And if they do where to get them? Iv Googled it and haven't had no luck.
 
Some auto body supply business will mix colors to the codes and put it in spray bombs for you. Tower Paint used to advertise this back in the day . You'd be better off buying a small detail gun and spraying your own .Spray can paint never holds up like the real deal.
 
Some auto body supply business will mix colors to the codes and put it in spray bombs for you. Tower Paint used to advertise this back in the day . You'd be better off buying a small detail gun and spraying your own .Spray can paint never holds up like the real deal.
Thanks. Here is my thinking/idea. I want to paint my engine bay before I put my engine in (obviously)
Well the engine isnt far from being done but the body is nowhere near ready for paint. So instead of spending 5to 600 on paint and spraying the bay and letting it set for God knows how long I could spray it with aerosol and then it would match when I finally get around to paint time.
 
Thanks. Here is my thinking/idea. I want to paint my engine bay before I put my engine in (obviously)
Well the engine isnt far from being done but the body is nowhere near ready for paint. So instead of spending 5to 600 on paint and spraying the bay and letting it set for God knows how long I could spray it with aerosol and then it would match when I finally get around to paint time.
Wait and paint the entire car at one time .If you paint the bay first and put in a motor you run the risk of fogging it up when you shoot the car with the over spray.This happened to me once and I had to pull the motor to re shoot the bay and the motor because they became dull ,almost flat looking.Patience pays off when you are building a nice car
 
Some auto body supply business will mix colors to the codes and put it in spray bombs for you. Tower Paint used to advertise this back in the day . You'd be better off buying a small detail gun and spraying your own .Spray can paint never holds up like the real deal.

Great idea. Although the quality out of a spray can isn't as good as out of the gun, at least the color will be right.


Thanks. Here is my thinking/idea. I want to paint my engine bay before I put my engine in (obviously)
Well the engine isnt far from being done but the body is nowhere near ready for paint. So instead of spending 5to 600 on paint and spraying the bay and letting it set for God knows how long I could spray it with aerosol and then it would match when I finally get around to paint time.

Get the right color and spray a coat or two on. I screwed up and spray bombed my engine compartment gloss black instead of the original body color (which I don't like). Every Mopar guy gives me crap for doing it. I'm getting tired of hearing it. LOL
 
you can also get a pint, some reducer and hardener, and a Pre-Val brand aerosol sprayer.
 
Mopar Performance spray bombs from the dealership.
I cant remember name of paint supplier...."Auto color" or something like that
 
if you do it do it right. i had body shop supply house mix me some paint for the rims on my jeep and put it in spray cans. sprayed nice but they were like 30 bucks a can for just enamel....

engine compartment is easy enough not to screw up that i'd just do it right the first time.. buy a pint or quart and spray it..
 
Heard it's hard to find but I've seen Mopar black at the local speed shops.
 
The webpage sucks. I had to search around with the keyword "totally Auto paint" to find it
 
Great idea. Although the quality out of a spray can isn't as good as out of the gun, at least the color will be right.




Get the right color and spray a coat or two on. I screwed up and spray bombed my engine compartment gloss black instead of the original body color (which I don't like). Every Mopar guy gives me crap for doing it. I'm getting tired of hearing it. LOL
The place I found my paint only sells the restoration colors (old factory colors) in gal kits. My biggest concern is that the paint will go bad setting. I know that you can't mix it until you spray. But I'm not sure on the shelf life after open.
I'm not sure how long its going to be before I actually get to paint the car.
 
The paint will be fine as long as it’s sealed properly. The reducers and activators and **** like may go bad though.
 
Wait and paint the entire car at one time .If you paint the bay first and put in a motor you run the risk of fogging it up when you shoot the car with the over spray.This happened to me once and I had to pull the motor to re shoot the bay and the motor because they became dull ,almost flat looking.Patience pays off when you are building a nice car
I had thought of that I was gonna tape off the whole bay with plastic when I painted the rest of the car.
 
It's so much easier to paint it all at one time.You start you finish and that is the end of it. You limit your exposure to this toxic **** and your car comes out better with less work.
 
The paint will be fine as long as it’s sealed properly. The reducers and activators and **** like may go bad though.
Thanks I will just try and find a local paint store that can just mix a pint or quart and buy my gallon kit later.
 
It's so much easier to paint it all at one time.You start you finish and that is the end of it. You limit your exposure to this toxic **** and your car comes out better with less work.
Yea I agree but unfortunately that isn't gonna work for me. My engine will be done soon and it has to go in the car I dont have anywhere to keep it.
 
I had a paint supply shop match some for me and they put t in a spray can. I painted some dash parts, lock knobs and steering wheel, they matched it to my glovebox door and match is perfect! Covered nice, cost was about $25 to have it done.
 
O'Reilly Auto Parts have the Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Paints with Ceramic. Their Mopar Blue and Mopar Tuquoise (67 383 and such), Excellent Mopar Color Matches, great for engine applications.

I always prime my engines first with an automotive Gray Primer Surfacer for excellent adhesion and it builds a nice base over the castings of the heads and block to produce and excellent end finish.

I also have an Excellent Mopar Red Match for the 69 Red 318 engines and the 340s that were red too. It is a paint code that I have in the Single Stage Acrylic Enamel that you add the hardener with. Excellent tough engine finish and chemical resistant too. I have the Dupont Code for this out at my warehouse in storage.

This Mopar Red Match was real difficult to match from what was available online, Even the so called Mopar Red Brand . . . That was way to purple and stunk like something dead. Can imagine where that was manufactured at.

1976 360.jpg

Above is the Mopar Blue from O'Reilly's
'76 360 Truck Engine, Warranty Block of all things . . . blank vin code plate. Zero Ridge !

383 Intake.jpg


Above here is the Mopar Turquoise, from O'Reilly's
'67 383

69 Red 318.jpg


And above is the Factory Match Dupont Acrylic Enamel Single Stage
For this Original 1969 318.

As far as Mopar Black Goes, Black Is Black. Black is the absence of all color so you can pretty much use what you want. I prefer the Black Single Stage Acrylic Enamel that you add hardener to for the Chemical Resistance Part of it. Want the Matte finish or the Satin finish, use the same finish the Rat Rodders use.

There you go . . . Have Fun Building your engines.
 
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