Mopar Performance Distributor adjustable advance?

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the slots are how much advance is in the dist.

you want 20 at idle and what total? 35ish? then you want 15 degrees of advance curve.

the springs basically determine the RPM total is achieved.
OK Joe how do I achieve this? It's not as easy as just making the gap with the 14 stick is it??
And yes I haven't even touched on the springs yet, I realize they kinda regulate how fast a curve comes in and how far into the RPM range they make that progression.
I really thought I had a handle on this years ago but with other types of distributor and now I feel like anything I thought I knew isn't getting me there.
Also living in a 55+ doesn't allow me to any testing while running so I make changes and then have to go somewhere with my timing light to see what I accomplished which sucks!
TY Ron
 
At idle (lets say 850 rpm), the dist weights are normally doing nothing. Disconnect the vac advance and plug the line. Idle the engine, twist the dist CCW and watch the timing mark on the balancer with a timing light (make sure that you adjust your idle down to keep it around 850 as you do this because it will increase as you add more timing)......This is initial timing. Try 12 to 18 degrees and tighten the dist bolt down. This is now your initial timing.

As the rpm increases, the weights in the distributor begin to move adding more timing as the rpm increases (mechanical advance timing). The keys are used to adjust the stop inside the distributor to limit limit this advance.

Total timing = initial timing + mechanical advance timing

As a start, try to shoot for 34 degrees Total timing and evaluate if the engine is experiencing detonation (ping) which means the timing is too far advanced with a road test.

So, as an example, if you set your initial timing at 16 degrees, you would need to use the 18 degree key to limit your mechanical advance to 18 degrees in order to have 34 degrees total at higher RPM.

Of course, there is more to a perfect timing curve that you will need to research and experiment with, but this is basically how initial and mechanical advance interact.

Good luck.
 
i didn't read the directions that were posted but yes, whatever stick you use should be your mechanic curve. you don't have to do anything to achieve 20* initial though. jist unhook the vac advance and set to 20 at idle. the sticks and slots will just determine total advance.
 
You can't just set the initial timing at idle on an unknown distributor.
For example at 850 rpm it may already be advancing.
You need to measure rpm and see what prm advance it begins.
Until you are sure the there is no advance at your idle rpm, you'll need to keep track of rpm and timing even at idle.
 
OK I think I'm starting to understand but need to be sure on one aspect,right now the 18 key was used so I said I had 12 at idle and wanted more. So just turn distributor to achieve lets say 16 but when I do that the idle will raise so then lower idle check again and continue this till I get how I want again say 16 at an idle of 900. When achieved the 16+18 will be 34. So then if I was to bring the rpm's up to lets say 3000 it shouldn't pass 34 total?

TY Ron
 
I have the paperwork with my adjustment kit but I am not understanding it properly.
When people say I have 20 initial what exactly does that mean and how is that obtained? Is it already built in the distributor??
I thought initially I was doing it with the sticks. EX. If i adjusted the gap with 18 stick I was thinking I then had 18 degrees initial but what I think you guys are saying is 18 + the 12 degrees I see at idle means my distributor has 30 degrees mechanical so if so exactly what is that doing for me??
How would I get the engine to have say 20 degrees at idle to help with my 245 @ .050 545 lift cam's idle characteristics??
TY Ron

You have three different timing adjustments (for lack of a better term).

Initial, mechanical and vacuum advance. They are separate but affect each other.

Your mechanical advance is what you change with the sticks. Whatever the number is on the stick, that will be the total mechanical advance you will have. Thats in crank degrees. The 18 degree stick means you have 18 degrees of mechanical advance. If you look at the sticks, you’ll see the bigger the number on the stick, the bigger the bump is on that stick. Thats because you are adjusting the stop that controls how far the weights are allowed to open. There is a “window” (for lack of a better term) where those adjustment sticks fit into. As that window gets bigger (bigger number stick) the more advance you get. Smaller stick, smaller window, less advance. RPM, size and shape of the weights, the springs and even the shape of the part that the weights open up against control when the mechanical advance starts and how slow or fast the weights open and add mechanical advance.

Initial timing is the difference between your total mechanical advance and your timing from TDC at idle, whatever rpm that may be.

So, if you used your 18 degree stick you’d have (at some rpm depending on the above variables) 18 degrees of advance. If you, at your idle rpm have the TDC line on the damper lined up with zero on the timing cover (it may say TDC on the cover) you’d have zero initial, 18 total and then whatever vacuum you add but I don’t want to go there yet.

Because I’m not sure if you have a damper that is degreed, a timing tape on the damper or a dial back timing light I’ll say it this way. Your timing cover has some marks on it. TDC and then usually marks that add up to 10 degrees before TDC and 10 degrees after TDC. Where the TDC line on the damper show up on your timing cover marks is your initial timing.

If you look at your timing at idle and the line on the damper is lined up with 10 before TDC then you’d have 10 initial plus at some rpm you’d have your 18 mechanical for a total of 28 degrees.

It gets confusing because some distributors have very light springs and that causes the mechanical advance to start at a very low rpm and you get to full mechanical advance very quickly. Some guys have their mechanical timing all in by 2500 rpm. That is considered a very fast curve.

When your engine is at idle and there is no mechanical advance starting to add timing, and you start turning the distributor you are adjusting your initial timing. And that initial timing is how much or how little you turn the distributor.

Let’s say you decide you want 36 total at XXXX rpm and your best educated guess is you will need 20 initial to get a nice idle. The difference between 36 and 20 is 16. That means you’d need 16 degrees of mechanical advance to get your total of 36.

You’d grab your 16 degree stick, set the advance mechanism so that it’s snug on the 16 degree stick, drop the distributor in and fire the engine. Then you would (at idle) turn your distributor so that at idle you see 20 degrees and you’d be done with that part and you’d drive the car or make a pull on the dyno to see if the engine really wanted those timing parameters.

Way too long. The short answer is your initial timing is what you add by turning the distributor at idle, your mechanical is whatever stick you use to set the “window” in the advance mechanism and your total is the sum of both added together.

Once you get the initial and total sorted out you then (if you want to) add in the vacuum advance. That’s a lot more to type so I won’t do it here.

I hope that makes sense.
 
You have three different timing adjustments (for lack of a better term).

Initial, mechanical and vacuum advance. They are separate but affect each other.

Your mechanical advance is what you change with the sticks. Whatever the number is on the stick, that will be the total mechanical advance you will have. Thats in crank degrees. The 18 degree stick means you have 18 degrees of mechanical advance. If you look at the sticks, you’ll see the bigger the number on the stick, the bigger the bump is on that stick. Thats because you are adjusting the stop that controls how far the weights are allowed to open. There is a “window” (for lack of a better term) where those adjustment sticks fit into. As that window gets bigger (bigger number stick) the more advance you get. Smaller stick, smaller window, less advance. RPM, size and shape of the weights, the springs and even the shape of the part that the weights open up against control when the mechanical advance starts and how slow or fast the weights open and add mechanical advance.

Initial timing is the difference between your total mechanical advance and your timing from TDC at idle, whatever rpm that may be.

So, if you used your 18 degree stick you’d have (at some rpm depending on the above variables) 18 degrees of advance. If you, at your idle rpm have the TDC line on the damper lined up with zero on the timing cover (it may say TDC on the cover) you’d have zero initial, 18 total and then whatever vacuum you add but I don’t want to go there yet.

Because I’m not sure if you have a damper that is degreed, a timing tape on the damper or a dial back timing light I’ll say it this way. Your timing cover has some marks on it. TDC and then usually marks that add up to 10 degrees before TDC and 10 degrees after TDC. Where the TDC line on the damper show up on your timing cover marks is your initial timing.

If you look at your timing at idle and the line on the damper is lined up with 10 before TDC then you’d have 10 initial plus at some rpm you’d have your 18 mechanical for a total of 28 degrees.

It gets confusing because some distributors have very light springs and that causes the mechanical advance to start at a very low rpm and you get to full mechanical advance very quickly. Some guys have their mechanical timing all in by 2500 rpm. That is considered a very fast curve.

When your engine is at idle and there is no mechanical advance starting to add timing, and you start turning the distributor you are adjusting your initial timing. And that initial timing is how much or how little you turn the distributor.

Let’s say you decide you want 36 total at XXXX rpm and your best educated guess is you will need 20 initial to get a nice idle. The difference between 36 and 20 is 16. That means you’d need 16 degrees of mechanical advance to get your total of 36.

You’d grab your 16 degree stick, set the advance mechanism so that it’s snug on the 16 degree stick, drop the distributor in and fire the engine. Then you would (at idle) turn your distributor so that at idle you see 20 degrees and you’d be done with that part and you’d drive the car or make a pull on the dyno to see if the engine really wanted those timing parameters.

Way too long. The short answer is your initial timing is what you add by turning the distributor at idle, your mechanical is whatever stick you use to set the “window” in the advance mechanism and your total is the sum of both added together.

Once you get the initial and total sorted out you then (if you want to) add in the vacuum advance. That’s a lot more to type so I won’t do it here.

I hope that makes sense.
OK very comprehensive not that others weren't I will take any and all help till it gets into this thick head.
I am using a timing light with degree wheel on it. My balancer is only marked at TDC and I use the 0
on the timing cover tab.

TY Ron
 

OK very comprehensive not that others weren't I will take any and all help till it gets into this thick head.
I am using a timing light with degree wheel on it. My balancer is only marked at TDC and I use the 0
on the timing cover tab.

TY Ron

Do you have a dial back timing light?
 
Yes Newbomb that I knew i guess guys use that new style I see with buttons on the back and can read RPM also. Mine is old but I have tested it against friends lights so seem to be accurate.
Ron
 
Yes Newbomb that I knew i guess guys use that new style I see with buttons on the back and can read RPM also. Mine is old but I have tested it against friends lights so seem to be accurate.
Ron

There are some disadvantages to those digital lights. The biggest is the software they use have “smoothing” in them. Some use way more smoothing than others.

That smoothing has an algorithm that slows down and smooths out any erratic timing it senses. While that seems like a good thing, the algorithm can have different strategies to do the smoothing. So it may average the high and low or it may take an average of several cycles or who knows what else.

So you may think you have XX initial or total but it may just be an average of several cycles.

As long as you know it it’s not a bad thing, but I’d rather see the timing jumping around and try to fix that rather than have the light smooth it out.

Those Craftsman lights have very little smoothing and those are my favorite lights.
 
lottle egg harbor? not all that far from me. let me know if you have trouble. maybe we can meet up and figure it out.
Joe thank you for that offer, yes Little Egg Harbor. I'll let you know, I'm going to play with the car some more today if I get time.
I somehow knew you were south also from post over the years.
Thanks everyone I'm get back on here later or tonight.
Ron
 
If this is an automoatic car, once you get the timing set to whatever initial number you want and idle rpm, pull it in gear and check timing after RPM drop. If it drops timing from 18 to 14-15-16 in gear, you need to fix that or you will chase your tune up at idle. Idle timing needs to remain in a steady reading/state in both conditions.
 
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400-stroked 512 Cam is 245 @ .050 and 545 lift 440 source aluminum heads 10.5 compression and TTI headers 1 7/8 with 2 1/2 full exhaust . Torker intake and a750 vac. sec. presently. Manual transmission.
Street car/show.

Ron
 
Manual trans, not an issue with my comment. Get the idle timing set and go from there.
 
Your mechanical advance is what you change with the sticks. Whatever the number is on the stick, that will be the total mechanical advance you will have. Thats in crank degrees.
That's what the instructions say, but they lie.
It's true the sticks or drill bits are used to set the maximum advance.
What they don't say is that changing the maximum advance changes the spring tension (light spring) and spring slack (long loop). Reduce the advance degrees and the advance will begin at a lower rpm.

Details are in the links I posted earlier, but that's the main thing to be aware of when starting out.
 
Ok I'm going out to the garage and going to take distributor out to change the setting to a 14 stick and then set idle at 20 degrees so I should then have a total timing of 34 degrees.

Ron
 
That's what the instructions say, but they lie.
It's true the sticks or drill bits are used to set the maximum advance.
What they don't say is that changing the maximum advance changes the spring tension (light spring) and spring slack (long loop). Reduce the advance degrees and the advance will begin at a lower rpm.

Details are in the links I posted earlier, but that's the main thing to be aware of when starting out.


Yes. The OP should read very closely ANY links you post and ANY post you make.

If everyone did that there would be far less confusion on this stuff than there currently is.
 
OK today I went out to a show with the car. The idle is very nice and rather happy sounding. Car runs great set-up this way but when I got home I tried a hot start and it cranked slow (mind you not locked up but slow). I'm going to make a change tomorrow with the distributor and put it at an 18 stick and 16 initial and see how that feels and then later test a hot start. The hot starting I've been chasing for a while and actually have a post on FBBO about it so I still have a heavier neg. cable to make and try.
I want to thank everyone that took the time to help here because I really have a better working knowledge with these sticks and initial timing.

Ron
 
OK today I went out to a show with the car. The idle is very nice and rather happy sounding. Car runs great set-up this way but when I got home I tried a hot start and it cranked slow (mind you not locked up but slow). I'm going to make a change tomorrow with the distributor and put it at an 18 stick and 16 initial and see how that feels and then later test a hot start. The hot starting I've been chasing for a while and actually have a post on FBBO about it so I still have a heavier neg. cable to make and try.
I want to thank everyone that took the time to help here because I really have a better working knowledge with these sticks and initial timing.

Ron


You need to put a light on it and see if the timing if the timing is advancing too soon.

You may need to use a stiffer spring and keep the initial up.

I used to (when I was dumb and wrong) lock out the distributor and I never had an issue starting the engine.

Before I changed the timing I’d look at other stuff.
 
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