3404spdvaliant
Banned
Like I said, it's climate /temp related.lol
motor oil
- Thread starter Tadams
- Start date
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Like I said, it's climate /temp related.lol
Longgone
John/68 Barracuda & Dart
Here`s another article on oil additives to further prune the gray matter. http://www.aa1car.com/library/motor_oil_additives.htm
66aCUDA
/6 Racer
I ve run 10-30 in all my junk anywhere in the country. I did try 10-40 but it clogged up the engine and I took it out.
Frank
Frank
3404spdvaliant
Banned
3404spdvaliant
Banned
Yep.
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
mopar race manual states a straight weight engine oil,not a multi grade,,i broke my 340 in on sae 30 and thats whats been in it for 12 years,,no problems ever,,solid cam,,
dgc333
Well-Known Member
If you have a stock motor with a stock cam or close to stock cam there is adequate ZDDP in the current SM rated motor oils. It's when you start using a high lift cams with very stiff springs that the level of ZDDP in SM rated oils becomes questionable.
Of course this only applies to flat tappet cams, roller cams its not an issue. And its always a good idea to break in a cam stock or otherwise with a break in additive that has addtional wear additives.
Longgone
John/68 Barracuda & Dart
We`ve got a 2009 Corolla that takes 0-20w. In the interest of gas mileage some companies are going to tight tolerances and sewing machine oil. Lol!
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
as far as the zinc content there is also the magnesium content. they phased out these two materials only because they wernt emissions friendly.
i was always told that these materials were good to run all the time because of there lubricating properties just as leaded gas was on the "soft" valves and seats
i was always told that these materials were good to run all the time because of there lubricating properties just as leaded gas was on the "soft" valves and seats
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
just the oppisite,, the tolerances are getting looser,,, better mileage,,,
i see it with my wifes new pacifica,,10w30 car takes 5.5 quarts,,,car has 6000 miles on it first oil change i did was at 2500.. second at 6000,,manufracture calls for 6000 miles between service when i drained the oil,,and dumped it back in to the 5 quart bottle,,remember the car holds 5.5 quarts,, it didnt seem to have more then 4 quarts in it,,new cars loose tolerances,, useing oil,,
i see it with my wifes new pacifica,,10w30 car takes 5.5 quarts,,,car has 6000 miles on it first oil change i did was at 2500.. second at 6000,,manufracture calls for 6000 miles between service when i drained the oil,,and dumped it back in to the 5 quart bottle,,remember the car holds 5.5 quarts,, it didnt seem to have more then 4 quarts in it,,new cars loose tolerances,, useing oil,,
3404spdvaliant
Banned
No it's called oil trapped in the filter and painted all over the indside of the engine.
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
im pretty sure there isnt 1 1/2 quarts in the filter and engine,,
jkeck55
Well-Known Member
I used to work in an oil testing lab and would liek to clear up some misconceptions. These recommendations are for street driving of cars that do not have extreme modifications. If you are racing or have extreme lift cams or other very high performance parts this info does not really apply because your drving conditions are different.
for multi weight oil like 10w 30 or 20w 50 the oil has viscocity modifiers added so it is more pourable at a lower temperature. what this means is at low temperature a 10w 30 pours like an oil with a viscocity of 10 so it will flow more easily in a cold engine. This is important even if you live in the south because your oil will begin lubricating your engine more quickly when you first start it when the majority of wear occurs.
In normal street driving I don't reccomend additives. The additives in the oil are balanced for specific purposes and adding other additives will throw off this balance and create unintended consequnces. I am not a complete expert but I do know if you add excessive anti wear additives you will decrease the oils ability to deal with oxidation. This causes the oil to get gummy and create that nasty oil varnish you see in engines.
A lower viscocity oil will slightly increase performance and mileage but it may not be noticable.
My personal reccomendation is a 5w 30 or 10w 30 for any and all vehicles and if you want you can use a synthetic but it is not necessary. If you live in extreme cold (Northern MN or AK) I do reccomend a synthetic 0w 30
for multi weight oil like 10w 30 or 20w 50 the oil has viscocity modifiers added so it is more pourable at a lower temperature. what this means is at low temperature a 10w 30 pours like an oil with a viscocity of 10 so it will flow more easily in a cold engine. This is important even if you live in the south because your oil will begin lubricating your engine more quickly when you first start it when the majority of wear occurs.
In normal street driving I don't reccomend additives. The additives in the oil are balanced for specific purposes and adding other additives will throw off this balance and create unintended consequnces. I am not a complete expert but I do know if you add excessive anti wear additives you will decrease the oils ability to deal with oxidation. This causes the oil to get gummy and create that nasty oil varnish you see in engines.
A lower viscocity oil will slightly increase performance and mileage but it may not be noticable.
My personal reccomendation is a 5w 30 or 10w 30 for any and all vehicles and if you want you can use a synthetic but it is not necessary. If you live in extreme cold (Northern MN or AK) I do reccomend a synthetic 0w 30
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