Motorhome 360

-

Vahelms

If U aint First, U'r Last
Joined
Jan 22, 2011
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
Beaumont, Ca
Hey Guys, a newbie here, I heard that motorhome engines and trannies are built heavier duty then regular auto stuff. I want to find a used 360 & Tranny from a motorhome at a salvage yard but was wondering what years would be better to look for to find the steel crank & possibly the "six pack" rods for a rebuild start. Any help would be much appreciated. ...Thx
 
The six pack rods are a big block thing and won't be in a 360. Motor home transmissions often have extension housings that won't work in passenger car applications. The internals of the trans can be used for the heavy duty planitaries but not really neccessary. I would look for car stuff if you want to just bolt in and drive.
 
I have a motorhome combo in my dart. Nothing fordged but I didn't have problems with my transmission. Got the driveshaft cut down and was good to go.
 
There is no differance in a motor home engine or tranny vs. a passenger car engine and trans. If there is any differance's, they are small items like mentioned above in the trans. Considering the age of the trans, it may need a rebuilding anyway. Car or motor home.

Rebuilding a car engine and trans to the upgraded spec or what ever spec you want above factor HD, is worth the expense over using old worn out parts from a junk yard.

360's never had any forged parts except the rods, which every engine has.
Simply purchase the junk yard engine and trans to rebuild to your needed spec's.
 
Where's beaumont????thought that was a Canadian chevelle?????lol
 
Yeah, just rebuild it yourself so you know the tolerances are what you want. Not what some dude at a factory right after lunch thought was right in 1978...
 
Make sure it is a standard 360 and not the 360-3 industrial engine. There is a difference.


I’ve found there are several ways to differentiate between versions of the 360 engines, including:
• VIN # (5th digit = K on 360-3 version)
• oil sump location in the pan (van=front, car=center, truck=rear)
• 2 bbl vs. 4 bbl carburetor (360-3 has 2 bbl)
• presence or absence of A.I.R. (smog) in heads (360-3 has none??)
• EGR valve (360-3 has it)
• spark plug thread diameters––14mm vs. 18mm dia.on 360-3
 

Make sure it is a standard 360 and not the 360-3 industrial engine. There is a difference.


I’ve found there are several ways to differentiate between versions of the 360 engines, including:
• VIN # (5th digit = K on 360-3 version)
• oil sump location in the pan (van=front, car=center, truck=rear)
• 2 bbl vs. 4 bbl carburetor (360-3 has 2 bbl)
• presence or absence of A.I.R. (smog) in heads (360-3 has none??)
• EGR valve (360-3 has it)
• spark plug thread diameters––14mm vs. 18mm dia.on 360-3



Got it....Thank U for that, I had a feeling there was a little more to it. I am mostly concerned about the bottom end as pretty much everything else would be sold off. I was hoping to find a forged crank and a block that runs cooler (since it's RV) for Southern Cal...Warm Weather & Stop and Go traffic...I'm just poking around at ideas....:violent1:
 
Got it....Thank U for that, I had a feeling there was a little more to it. I am mostly concerned about the bottom end as pretty much everything else would be sold off. I was hoping to find a forged crank and a block that runs cooler (since it's RV) for Southern Cal...Warm Weather & Stop and Go traffic...I'm just poking around at ideas....:violent1:

I don't believe they ever made a forged crank in a 360.
 
-
Back
Top Bottom