Anyone ever moved the pivot point on the brake pedal to increase pressure output smd ease the amount of pedal force? I switched to manual 4 wheel discs and it’s hard to stop without a lot of leg. I’s there an aftermarket pedal that works?
Moving the pivot point on the brake pedal
- Thread starter 71Demon
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
It would be about 100000000000000000000000 times faster and cheaper and easier to get a smaller master. "Liability". Personally I would not screw around with the pedal, unless you are comfortable with mechanical design and certified/ x rayed/ etc welding
On a side note (my 67 is still apart, sad....) when I had it running, it has a Lincoln Versailles / Ford 9" rear with factory disk, and 73/74 Duster Demon factory front disk. "Just for fun" and to see where I sat, I punctured the residual pressure valves in the master and used the stock factory drum master. I'm 73, now, but even then I had knees/ legs issues, and I can stop that thing just fine. Not that hard to slide the tires the bit at 70+ It gives me a rock hard pedal at less than 1/2 pedal travel
On a side note (my 67 is still apart, sad....) when I had it running, it has a Lincoln Versailles / Ford 9" rear with factory disk, and 73/74 Duster Demon factory front disk. "Just for fun" and to see where I sat, I punctured the residual pressure valves in the master and used the stock factory drum master. I'm 73, now, but even then I had knees/ legs issues, and I can stop that thing just fine. Not that hard to slide the tires the bit at 70+ It gives me a rock hard pedal at less than 1/2 pedal travel
Changing the master to a different size bore will do the same thing with a lot less work.
Either will increase the travel distance.
Either will increase the travel distance.
I have done that modification many times. However in your case, I doubt you will gain enough benefit to provide satisfactory braking. You need to move the prod hole closer to the pedal pivot, but you would need to move it so far that the prod will be at a bad angle.
For maximum transfer of leg power to the m/c, the angle between the pedal centers & prod needs to be 90*, brakes applied; you will lose that changing the pivot.
As others have said, a smaller m/c is a better fix; but you will also have more pedal travel.
Best fix is a booster.
For maximum transfer of leg power to the m/c, the angle between the pedal centers & prod needs to be 90*, brakes applied; you will lose that changing the pivot.
As others have said, a smaller m/c is a better fix; but you will also have more pedal travel.
Best fix is a booster.
67 gt
A Wog boy who loves his Mopars !
Just had this issue with mine 4 wheel disk crazy hard peddle and it took a lot of effort in pulling it up and got sketchy a few times when some one jumps in front of you than is on the brakes so I ended up getting a few remote boosters done as I needed access up top for rocker adjustments, these are mounted under the front guards up front , night and day difference with min foot pressure in pulling up. I’m running the 15/16 master , Kelsey hays fronts and a ford rear . I had my hubs made to except the large bolt pattern but keep the small ball joint factory rotors.my vacuum is on the minimum side 12 inches but they work well.
15/16" Master Bore
67 gt
A Wog boy who loves his Mopars !
What disk brakes are you using? And what it the current diameter of your master cylinder?
I agree with the others, moving the pivot is not the way to solve the issue you're having. But without knowing what brakes and what master cylinder bore you already have it's hard to give relevant advice. If you already have a 15/16" master and still find it too hard of a pedal you may have another issue with the brake system or would need to go to a booster. If you currently have a 1-1/32" master cylinder the 15/16" master by itself will likely solve your issue.
I run a 15/16" master cylinder and manual disks on all of my Mopars, it's a nice balance between pedal effort and pedal travel. The slightly longer travel actually makes modulating the brakes a bit easier as well.
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