my 1st 340....yea

-
both set of pistons are cast ...so staying with cast ...and i guess no need to source a flywheel before i send the crank out for balancing
these are the rods both free floating

I'm building mine with + .020 NOS cast 72 pistons and 2.02 "J" heads, same casting numbers as yours.
 
Timing cover is wrong, see post #8. I'm building a 69/70 340 myself. Rods should be bronze bushed on the small end forging # 2899496 or 3418645. Only 360's and cast crank 340's are externally balanced. 273's, 318's and forged crank 340's are all internally balanced. No need to spend a lot on a 340, they came with all the good stuff. What are the casting # are on the heads? Any 340 forged crank should be good, just go to the next size bearings till it cleans up, if needed. Magneflux the crank, heads, and block before putting any money into them.
crank was done ,gave me paper work but once i get pistons i'll have it checked
any brand better then others ,and do i use chrome rings ? i know it needs to be honed for the rings i buy
 
That timing cover you have appears to be have the crank seal installed from outside. So i would say it's from the 80's. That makes it WAY easier to change seal if need be. Otherwise the timing cover has to be removed to change the seal.
For 69 covers the timing marks are on pass side. If you decide to you want 69 I have one listed for sale.
Congrats on the 340! You will have fun.
 
lucky me i can run it threw my business
this is the stuff i normally do audi v-8s ,i just like to sit and scratch my head wtf were they thinking

20201205_113730.jpg


20230330_143222.jpg
 
That timing cover you have appears to be have the crank seal installed from outside. So i would say it's from the 80's. That makes it WAY easier to change seal if need be. Otherwise the timing cover has to be removed to change the seal.
For 69 covers the timing marks are on pass side. If you decide to you want 69 I have one listed for sale.
Congrats on the 340! You will have fun.
yea black paint made me think newer
 

I would take the rods and crank to a reputable machine shop ask them to magnaflux and check for straightness. The heads are O's and sure look like 202's to me. I would always put new valve springs on unless I know for a fact that they are new and up to the spec. At that time you can check the valve guides to make sure you don't have any slop in them . It's going to be a process so don't get in any Rush ask a lot of questions and read some good books. Building a small block Mopar is a good one it's older but still has a lot of good info in it. Especially for a hot stock rebuild.
.
 
I would take the rods and crank to a reputable machine shop ask them to magnaflux and check for straightness. The heads are O's and sure look like 202's to me. I would always put new valve springs on unless I know for a fact that they are new and up to the spec. At that time you can check the valve guides to make sure you don't have any slop in them . It's going to be a process so don't get in any Rush ask a lot of questions and read some good books. Building a small block Mopar is a good one it's older but still has a lot of good info in it. Especially for a hot stock rebuild.
.
my mechinist is good dropping the block and heads off tomorrow ...have at least 2 years before i'm ready for the swap so just gathering parts (and info)still
 
I don’t have anxiety issues but these pictures give me anxiety!!
the first couple did ,the chain job is a 04to 09 s4 engine done at least a dozen
the nose off is a 13 s8 drop engine to replace the intake manifolds ...thats a job second pick
ill post a pick of my 13 a8 before i fixed it for the prior owner all the stuff hanging out of the front most was the headlight

20211021_191140.jpg


20201205_124900.jpg
 
Last edited:
the first couple did ,the chain job is a 04to 09 s4 engine done at least a dozen
the nose off is a 13 s8 drop engine to replace the intake manifolds ...thats a job
ill post a pick of my 13 a8 before i fixed it for the prior owner all the stuff hanging out of the from most was the headlight

View attachment 1716358457

View attachment 1716358463
To me that kind of looks like a cross between a refrigerator and a time machine
 
when i first saw it
i was wtf is all the electronics hanging out of the bumper .....headlight
guy didn't have collision cost him 14k to fix it ,two year later dealer told him it needed 9 to pull the engine and clean the valves ,i got it for 4k worth of work on his wives car
put 4k of time and $$ into it ....drove it for8 months sold it10k i hate the tan interior and too fast for the wife
 
There were all kinds of letters associated with 915's some 2.02 and some 1.88
I'm well aware there are J/C/U 915's out there.. Been playing with Mopars for at least a couple years.... Ok more like over 50 years..... I've seen mostly J's on 70 340's including T/A AAR motors.... The ones nutz has are C or O but they do have 2.02 valves....
 
-
Back
Top Bottom