My 318....Is no more..... :(

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redfastback said:
What's wrong with 70 +psi? Perfectly normal for a High volume pump.

Well, since it's now apart......I have never in my time as a mechanic heard valvetrain do that and still have oil pressure that consistent, so I knew it wasn't in that part. What RPM's did you hit?
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My high volume pump runs 75 psi at start up as it is sucking 10W40 from an 8 quart pan...
 
mopardude318 said:
Well, I pulled the rocker arms off, pulled the lifters out of the way and got the cam out...it spun freely and the cam bearings look good...I have to dig deeper and pull the damn engine I think!!!!

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Good luck my friend...you probably chimed in on my post about my recent 440 build for my 68 Dart....I have had terrible luck with my motor also..
 
ok i'm in the middle of pulling the engine...I have the headers unbolted from the heads, the 4 flex plate bolts, engine mount bolts are loose, and are there any tricks to get the the bell housing bolts? I do not want to drop the k-member...do i have to pull the starter, what about the 90 deg. oil filter adapter? lol...those bell housing bolts are up in there!
 
the bell bolts should be "toooooo" bad.

you can probably get most of them from down below and get the top to from the top side of the engine.....I just installed mine this way in my duster (thats with intake on and distributer in place and headers on and all)

sounds like your scooting right along! should have it out in no time!
 
1wildandcrazy is on the right track....exactly what I was thinking....check those things to eliminate variables.
 
Dude those bell housing bolts are a PTA. They take for ever to get out and are even tougher to get back in. Have a cold six pack handy when you start on them. You will need it.

I found it easier if you pull the long motor mount bolts and let the balancer sit on the K member. It will give you a little more room to reach a couple of them.
 
I got the engine out. The bell housing bolts were a b#$%@...I'll put it on the stand and pull the pan. I'll be back...

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dang dude,look at you just a whipping right along......pop that pan off and let us know what you find!
 
Badart said:
Dude those bell housing bolts are a PTA. They take for ever to get out and are even tougher to get back in. Have a cold six pack handy when you start on them. You will need it.

I found it easier if you pull the long motor mount bolts and let the balancer sit on the K member. It will give you a little more room to reach a couple of them.
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You know what's f up...with my 340 I had to use about 3 10" extensions on my rachet with a wiggle 9/16" socket to get at least two of the bolts out....with my 440 and 727 all of them can be done by hand WTF 8)
 
Was this a rebuilt engine or has it been in there a while?????
What kind of damper are you running on the engine.
How loose is the timing chain????

No loss in oil pressure.
No knocking heard.
No metal in the oil.
And it only does it when hot.
It sounded like a water pump impeller.
But you ran it without the belt and it still made the sound???
I would not have jumped to a conclusion so fast,BUT
OH WELL.You might as well check everything now.
 
IMHO, a stethoscope would've been cheaper and easier to locate the problem rather than pull the engine and tear it apart. Seemed a bit hasty. That's quite a few gaskets/fluids to replace.
 
Well, its on the stand...Pulled the heads, oil pan, checked the mains..everything seemed fine...it has been bored .060 over, has a cast crank and pistons, no windage tray, all the bores have a nice smooth finish with a nice cross hatch pattern.

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Passenger side
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Driver side
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What I did find is that there was wear and rubbage on the cam plug in the back of the block...Which may well have been the noise I was hearing...

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I just looked at your photo's.
Even if the plug was put in to far i don't think it would make any noise due to having oil on it.
That's not your problem.
Sorry, but if that engine ran for a long time and never made the sound before this, that is not your problem.
 
I am going to have to say that it looks like you found the problem.

I say.....that a bearing can have wear on it for awhile before it starts to make any noises....so I do not see why the cam plug could not do the same.

I think that it had to of played a part in making the noise.

I think you need a to set a new plug in it (the right way) and inspect everything over and over again,put new gaskets in,new seals in,new fluids and run it!.

could have been that once the temperature rose that the metal plug expanded just enough to touch the back of the cam which is why you were only hearing it once it got warm.
 
DusterDude you have a valid point...It was also suggested to me that maybe I had a lot of slop in the cam gear/drive rod letting the cam move backward?
 
mopardude318 said:
DusterDude you have a valid point...It was also suggested to me that maybe I had a lot of slop in the cam gear/drive rod letting the cam move backward?
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I suppose that could be possible.

you would have to check the end play and check the specs of the cam and bearing surfaces to make sure everything is within tolerance.....and then you have to take into consideration valve train geometry (don't ask me about none of that crap though lol ...Ill let someone else chime in on that aspect).

it also looks like whoever tapped in the cam plug did not get it straight (hense the wear on the bottom of the plug but not the top)

I am sure between all these guys here on fabo with all there knowledge that one way or another you will be pointed in the right direction and figure out what needs to be figured out so you can fix it and be back on the road.

its a plus its been bored and has flat tops!......a couple extra cubes and a bit more compression.....you don't have a "318" anymore lol
 
I would slide the cam back in, put the thrust plate back on and drop in the distributor gear and then check the end play according to what is listed in a service manual..The plug would have to be crooked for it to rub on the bottom and not the top
 
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