My 414 Build- Almost done

[pettybludart]

I finally got it installed today. Just need to finish hooking everything up and finish the wiring in the trunk and on the fuel pump. The wiring is all ran, just need to make the connections.

Glad to hear your getting close.I have my 410 running in my 66 Dart,man what a beast.I,m running a solid roller cam .631 lift 252@258 gonna take it to the shop this week for some fine tuning before hitting the track for some seat time.Whatelse have you done to the car to handle the 414?

P.S I started to convert the 66 Dart 6 months ago also.

 

[Mad Dart]

Right on Dave!!!!!! I bet you are excited about firing it off

 

[64physhy]

Petty Blue, I have a Dana 60, reverse pattern manual shift race built 904, subframe connectors, moved battery to the trunk, 3/8" steel braided fuel line. All that is why it has taken me so long to get the engine dropped in. Wanted to be able to handle it.

 

[POS Dakota]

Looks like a fine smallblock to me with all good pieces.
Good luck!

 

[387dart]

what headers are you going with - TTi make a 1 3/4" non-step type that would work well.

 

[64physhy]

I have Dougs already. Had them on the 318 I took out, so I know they fit, just need to remember how I got them threaded in there the first time.

 

[64physhy]

Since the pics in the original post, I got the regulator and fuel lines set up for the carb, some March Performance Pulleys, an MSD E-Curve and Blaster 2 coil, and pulled off the Pro Street Damper and replaced it with a Fluidampr. I think that's about it, other than pulling the whole front off (timing cover) because the valves didn't seem right at TDC and discovered that the CORRECT dot on the crank gear was nearly microscopic, and I had it lined up with a different mark, so it was about 10 degrees off. Kinda glad I caught that before it was too late.

 

[dfastcar]

I've been working on building this for about 6 months now. Here's what's in it:
360 block, +.060
Eagle Forged Crank
Hughes Main Stud Girdle
Eagle H-Beam Rods
Hughes 3742 cam (237/242 dur)
KB 745 Forged Step-dish pistons with .030 milled off the step.
Hughes Ported Iron Ram Heads, 2.055 intake valves, beehive springs.
PRW Stainless 1.65:1 roller rockers with a Jomar rocker stud girdle
Port Matched Edelbrock Airgap RPM
Proform 750 racing carb
MSD E-curve distributor (on the way)

I'm thinking I should get close to 500 HP out of it. A bigger cam would get me over that.

throw that eagle crank out before it tears ur hole project up talk to dave at hughes he is the man get you a mopar performance steel crank them eagle cranks are as weak as they look i have broken 2 of them

 

[w2360Duster]

throw that eagle crank out before it tears ur hole project up talk to dave at hughes he is the man get you a mopar performance steel crank them eagle cranks are as weak as they look i have broken 2 of them

Really...A FORGED crank? I read your 1st post about your failure if it was forged there is more to the story. After i put about a hundred nitrous passess on mine i will let you know how it goes.

 

[pettybludart]

I,ll second that,I have the Eagle crank,H-beam rods with no issues.I also read you went through 2,maybe your machining is your problem?

 

[Mad Dart]

Third that one, Eagle Forged Crank and their H Beam Rods in my 410, abused everytime I fire it up!!

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

maybe your machining is your problem?

Why should you have to machine a brand new crank?

 

[pettybludart]

Why should you have to machine a brand new crank?

Not the crank,the block.

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

Not the crank,the block.

So you're saying the line hone, if he had this done, was the cause?

 

[64physhy]

So you're saying the line hone, if he had this done, was the cause?

Maybe he means lack of line honing? I really don't think I'll be putting enough power to break a forged crank.

 

[mullinax95]

That is a healthy build and good looking one at that!

 

[pettybludart]

What I meant by machining is,whoever did his work on his block,heads may have missed something.For 2 cranks in a row to break?Somethings not right and I don,t think it,s the cranks.JMO.Not everybody uses Hughes either.

 

[64physhy]

Thanks. I wish it ran as good as it looks. Had problems with the carb, and as soon as I got that ironed out, the #8 intake lifter collapsed on me. Haven't had a chance to tear into it yet to see what caused the lifter failure. The oil was clean when I changed it after the break-in, and no chips on the chip detector.

 

[64physhy]

What I meant by machining is,whoever did his work on his block,heads may have missed something.For 2 cranks in a row to break?Somethings not right and I don,t think it,s the cranks.JMO.Not everybody uses Hughes either.

I used Hughes for a lot of my stuff. They sell the Eagle Forged cranks, but I got the crank somewhere else for about $200 cheaper than Hughes has them. I agree though, 2 cranks, if they were forged, should not have broke, even if they were crappy, unless you're throwing an a$$ load of power at it.

 

[dodge freak]

That is two cranks in the same block-correct?

Maybe it was tight on the mains? Maybe the block had an oiling problem? Can't a block be proses and leak even internally, like oil passages. You read the oil pressure on sbm right in back above the oil pump-what ever the pressure is after that who knows? Maybe an oil passage was block or restricted.

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

What I meant by machining is,whoever did his work on his block,heads may have missed something.For 2 cranks in a row to break?Somethings not right and I don,t think it,s the cranks.JMO.Not everybody uses Hughes either.

I don't think it was clear weather the forged or cast unit was used.
the cast steel eagle cranks break at/around 500hp.fwiw

 

[64physhy]

I read on another thread where he posted that the first was cast and the second was forged.

 

[451Cuda]

Why should you have to machine a brand new crank?

New parts can be off a little or even complete junk. Assume nothing, check everything.

 

[1wild&crazyguy]

New parts can be off a little or even complete junk. Assume nothing, check everything.

I know...
I check everything as well.

The point still being if you pay good money for a finished product that is supposedly high quality, why should you expect to 're' finish it, know what I mean?
Like...why is it the buyers fault??????

Thats what I'm saying.

unfortunately we sometimes we do anyway, though I would just send it back and if they didn't wanna pay the way....get another brands product instead.

 

[451Cuda]

I know...
I check everything as well.

The point still being if you pay good money for a finished product that is supposedly high quality, why should you expect to 're' finish it, know what I mean?
Like...why is it the buyers fault??????

Thats what I'm saying.

unfortunately we sometimes we do anyway, though I would just send it back and if they didn't wanna pay the way....get another brands product instead.

It's never the buyers fault, just it's good to know for sure before you bolt it all together and ruin your other parts. I worked enough in manufacturing to know that mistakes are alot more common than people think, especially nowadays with all this Chinese crap being sold as quality parts.

If it needs reground to be correct, I would certainly call em up and demand they cover the shipping to send it back.