my brain hurts with another 318

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peltjd

peltjd

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I have a 1969 318. Not a 340/360 so don't bother. I am going to do one of the many(400hp) builds i found online. Those builds are not consistent and have started to give me a headache. I've seen redoing the valves on my stock 318, using 360 heads, using cast 302 heads and magnum heads. I've seen 5 different cams and everything in between. I want to go as price conscious as possible. What are your specs laid out for us slower minded people?

Cam, pistons, heads, valve size, exhaust, intake, carb. etc. etc.......
 
Confusing statement;

I've seen redoing the valves on my stock 318, using 360 heads, using cast 302 heads and magnum heads
Click to expand...

Are you asking for a combo? You'll get as many different combo's as the mags have printed. Give me/us what head your working with. Tell me/us what you have now.
 
set your self a budget first (then expect to go over it)
next set realistic goals of what you want the car to do
1: 400 horse power dont care about anything else
2: race car only
3: fun cruiser just want some more power
4:?????????
 
I feel that the 400hp mark is affordable. If it only costs about $500 or $600 more then why not 400hp. I also can't get a good build profile for anything but 400hp.
 
Sorry, it will still be a daily so 400hp would be max. I just want to be able to smoke most mustangs and camaros on my way to walmart.
 
Bore and hone with a torque plate, install KB zero deck pistons.
rebuilt 360 heads would be most affordable or new heads from member OU812 (Brian) who can set you up very well & inexpensively.
RPM intake, 750 carb, headers into a 2-1/2 exhaust pipe

Now for a cam....OH boy! The opions on cam can get crazy and vari as much as hair style and the arguments like "Is a Mullet good for me?"

As a basic cam, one of 230* of duration @ .050 and mid to high 4xx lift will do it.
Like a 280/.480 cam on a 110.

Even a updated/replacement 340 cam would be excellent to use.
 
Mullet is never good, but that's just another opinion. Thanks for the input. Everything is pointing to a +.040 bore. Is that what your thinking? Also, are you sticking to a complete stock 360 head? I can't believe there are so many combos!

No offense intended if you have a mullet.
 
assuming you plan for a full rebuild this would be a good start, matched with a carb cam and intake designed to make power in the R.P.M. range of your choice (I would recommend something from idle as opposed to something that makes power further up in the R.P.M. range for a daily driver)

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...cw==&level1=Q3lsaW5kZXIgSGVhZHM=&partid=25739

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB167-030/

and perty much what rumbl said

oh and 318's done right are wicked cool engines!!!
 
the 318 is really fond of a nice single turbo !!

if i only had a 318 to work with, that would be my route.
 
CafeX tell me more. What would your specs be? Thanks for the hughes link, i bookmarked it. (What kind of cafe bike are you into?)
 
go big or go home, of course thats my opinion i could be wrong, hell after 8 beers, it is what it is
Dodge29
 
I'm meeting with the machine shop Saturday so I need to make a decision. If i zero deck the block and go with a .040 bore and kb167 pistons. Can i make a cam and head choice later?
 
peltjd said:
Everything is pointing to a +.040 bore. Is that what your thinking? Also, are you sticking to a complete stock 360 head? I can't believe there are so many combos!
Click to expand...

Is what am I thinking? A .040 overbore? What ever you engine needs, just make sure your piston selection is avaiolable in that overbore as well as the rings to use with the slugs.

Yes, a stock OE rebuilt 360 head. 1.88/1.60 valves.

Theres more than one way to skin a cat and alot depends on how it is to be used and driven.
 
Thanks rumblefish, I will see about the 360 heads availability in my area. Does .040 or .030 a big diff. If i do an overbore and zero deck can i decide on the cam and heads later? I want to get this thing started!
 
The .010 can be a big problem if there isn't a piston for your application/needs.
Less overbore is better. This equals a stronger cylinder. Less flexinging, better sealing of the rings. Theres very little power to be gained in overboreing the block.

If you want to get started, just purchase a engine stand and some plastic bags to wrap up the engine. Simple masking tape to seal up the bag will do just fine.

Remember to balance the rotating assembley.
 
peltjd said:
CafeX tell me more. What would your specs be? Thanks for the hughes link, i bookmarked it. (What kind of cafe bike are you into?)
Click to expand...

dont get to caught up in numbers like 400 HP build a good reliable engine with enough torque to satisfy you, back in the day I had a 66 mustang that was faster than my friends 340 R/T challenger, but wasnt as much fun to drive,

ask questions, read everything you can,
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Small-Block-Mopar-Engines-Present-273-318-340-360/dp/0895864797"]Amazon.com: How to Hot Rod Small Block Mopar Engines: Covers All Chrysler, Dodge & Plymouth LA Series Engines-1964 to Present-273-318-340-360 C.I.D. (9780895864796): Larry Shepard: Books@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/510FY4GWW1L.@@AMEPARAM@@510FY4GWW1L[/ame]
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/9781932494549.html

ask more questions, do more research and most important
HAVE A PLAN !!! figure out how much you can really afford, not how much you wish you could afford, decide EXACTLY what your engine should do,

1: fast?
2: reliable?
3: good gas mileage?
4: last 100,000 miles?

remember everything is a compromise, so when you come up with YOUR plan STICK WITH IT! dont let anyone or anything side track you

I have a bunch of 60's triumphs,a 63 Bonneville, 68 T100C 500, 75 MOTO GUZZI 850 interceptor, 750 honda super sport single cam, 79 CBX, 89 GB500, 66 harley XLCH, just to name a few, I love cafe racers but I now ride a harley FLH because it is comfortable

MY plan for MY 318 is 5.2 magnum dual plane crosswind intake, 600 CFM holly carb, dakota manifolds, hughes
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...NS4yLzUuOSk=&level1=Q2Ftc2hhZnQ=&partid=11430
 
I got the wrap going so I guess I've started! But not what I meant. That answers my over bore question, thanks. Did I mention this is my first engine build? Can I do the block and decide on the cam and heads later, sorry to repeat that part. I feel I'm more stuck on the cam and head part. Even though now i'm going with a smaller bore now.
 
you can always change the cam and heads at any time, a good rebuilt zero deck block, with a balanced rotating assembly is the best place to start, dont skimp on the bottom end, make it bullet proof so it can handle as much horse power as you decide to put on top of it,
bottom end = reliability
top end = power
 
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