my first engine rebuild (318) advises

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I measured couple of pistons, very easy to remove no ridge at all, crankshaft surfaces looked like new, rod bearings had couple of spots.

So pistons had compression height of 1.76'' and they are 0.04'' at hole. that means that with kb 167 comp 1.81 pistons would be just a bit over deck -0.01''
that would give comp of about 9.3-9.5:1
quench would be really close something like 0.018-0.028, is that too close?
 
Engine block is empty. it looks really clean and all surfaces are in good shape.
main and rod bearings are both 010 underside, all those surfaces look like new.


I also disassembled heads today...
might have done one mistake.....
when removing valves, i used bit of force to remove valve, just by hand but it still left small scratch on bronze guide. after i used file on lock grooves.

So brobably least one ruined guide.

Otherwise all went well. it looks like exhaust valves are already hardened.

But i brobably need new valves...
looks like exhaust valve saft is burned, it is bit thinner on spot where it comes out of quide.


ONE really noob question, do i need to buy new valve quides or does machinist use some common quide and make it fit?
 

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I cheked couple of valve guides for clearance and they are too sloppy. i can move valves side to side when they are in guides, so looks like they needed change anyway.

I have been porting my heads, nothing big, removed hump from exhaust roof, and opening intake side little bit from short turn side.

Now parts are clean for machine shop.
will take parts to the shop soon as i have time to took 80mile trip.
 
Measured my heads today.
Used medical syringe and deere hy-gard oil.
got about 66cc on both heads, Maybe heads have been milled someday in past.
I found shims under valve springs when i removed them, about 1mm thick.

So i put all my info to compression calculator and got compression 9.528.
dynamic comp is 7.835 if i put 10200701 voodoo cam on it.


My old comp was about 8.5, so thats one point up.

Trying to get engine to machinist next week, to make sure i get correct pistons, right size bearings etc, and to see if i need heads worked.

Funny thing hy-gard oil didnt get past valves, and there were no springs in place i just dropped valves on:)

Oh and funny thing exhaust valves weren't burned from the saft like i first tough, that was just some carbon deposit :)
 
I like your detailed investigation of parts, not just the "it worked for that guy" approach.

That hi-eff cam looks good for a C-body or truck. I like your 701 choice for your weight and a "fun" car.
 
I guess I will jump into the mix and give my 2 cents. Camshaft- I love Lunati and have used them with great sucess in the past over the years BUT that being said,I do think that Comp. Cams has done extensive / Ongoing research on a better "Mouse trap". The Extreme Energy series has a newer Lobe design that has convenced me to actually buy one to run in more than one of my cars and have been very pleased with the results. The internet is a wonderful Tool (if used properly), don't tie yourself to any brand while doing research. I see here you are doing just that and it is smart. Valve Job- Spend the money and get a Multi angle valve job and have the Intake Valves "Back Cut" it will help flow at lower lifts and lower RPM and across the range. Blend the Bowl behind the Intake Valve it will help. Don't get carried away just about 1/2 inch into the passage, just past the Valve job. You need the rough casting deeper in the intake passage to keep turbulence up for atomization (Mix) of gas and air @ low RPM. Use the springs/pressures recommended by camshaft maker! Use PC Seals on the Intake Valves and the standard valve seals on the Exhaust Valves, Intakes Suck in, the Exhaust Blows.This helps keep from sucking oil into combustion chamber over a longer period of time. Yep, fix those Valve guides and port match AND BLEND the intake to the heads like you are talking about, don't polish, blend (remember turbulance is your friend, GOOD to cover your RPM range !). I see you know about "Quench" etc. thats good. All I can cover right now hope I have helped some.
Keep us posted ! Tim (Dad):thumrigh:
 
The Engine itself is just a glorified "Air Pump" no matter the "Badge" on the outside. The more efficent the pump the better. Keep an open mind. Look at other builds by other "Badges" to see how they made their "Air Pump" more efficent, you might pick somthing up that can/will help with your build.
MERRY CHRISTMAS ! :cheers: Tim (Dad)
 
Merry Christmas.

I was considering also just run 701 voodooo cam instead of recomended cam.
voodoo is not acually wery much bigger

that voodoo cam is recomended used with dual springs, but i dont want to machine heads for new springs.
I am thinking of using comp 901-16 springs with that cam, no need of machining and those are about same than recomended springs.

Anyway main reason i am thinking of buying Lunati cam instead of comp XE is what i have read in web.. mainly here in FABO.
 
And a Merry Christmas to you. I use the 901's in one of our engines and they should do the job.

Stock 318's won't take more than .450" lift so we used the Comp 4726 to cut for positive seals and lower the guide, easy to do at home with a hand drill, did mine with a cordless one.

[ame]http://www.compcams.com/catalog/COMP2012/pdf/COMP_Catalog_2012_362.pdf[/ame]

And good luck against Norway on Friday, Canada plays Germany Thursday.
 
thats new to me. I thought that stock heads would support bit under 0.5 lift without any machining...

I have to think do I want to get guides machined or use bit lower lift cam.
Comp cam has complete set with springs and all for XE K20-220-3 cam, that has 0.43 0.44 lift so that shoud work.

Even Lunati high efficiency cam had over 0.45 lift on exhaust side..
 
Machining the guides is a very inexpensive procedure and one that you can actually do yourself with a cordless drill, the correct size cutter and a machinists rule. It is very simple and certainly should not be used as a guide for which camshaft to run.
 
I've measured quite a few 318 heads and many are all over the place and some very tight with a seal, don't forget they only had to accomodate .390" lift.

Check yours to be sure, easy now you have them off and apart. When I did mine I established the height I needed and took a 5/8" flat washer filed to .120" thick, placed it on the spring seat with lube and when the cutter touched it stop.

It is actually too easy and I,ve done a few heads since the first which has paid for the tool. My usual procedure is to take them to my machinist for cleaning and inspection, have them planed and guides installed if needed then pick them up do some pocket porting port match and cut the guide, return for for final grind and assembly. Sometimes I'll assemble depending on what work is needed

That xe 250 h cam is smaller than I would want for a Duster. I put the 256 in my truck with a 3.55 gear and like it alot. Any bigger than the 256 with the small valves will lose some torque but gain lots of Horsepower.
 
thanks a lot for this info.

so basicaly this tool cuts guides and places seal lower in head so there is more room, stock size seal but lower.
If I understand correctly.

this place is great for learning these things.
first time rebuilding engine to non stock, so lots of new stuff
 
The cutter has two blades on the sides that cut the diameter of the guide smaller to fit a positive lock seal like shown in the Comp link. There is one blade that cuts the top of the guide down to required height. I would not use the stock type seal.
 
went and measured valve clearances.
And least with stock seals closest valve would have 0.48 clearance, biggest was 0.52.
I measured exhaust side to the start of notch that you see on valve saft below lock to be in safe side.
If i am measuring this correctly and i am not complete brain death :)
But because i dont really know how new seals compare i will be buying those machining tools
 

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Well, I know general rule of thumb is to make sure there is ample additional room on top of whatever the max valve lift is. So, it would probably do you well to cut the guides a bit if you are going to come close to, or certainly if you plan to exceed .480 lift.
 
This is the cam i will be using 10200701LK, or something similar. it has 0.454/0.454 lift.
 
Well engine is finaly on machine shop.

He will measure block and heads first, so i know what parts to buy (correct size).

So about valve seals and machining.
i am going to get these tools as suggested, for machining
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-4726/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-4734/overview/

As for the seals i will use these in intake side (are these correct?)
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-505-1/overview/

For exhaust, can use new, stock type seals? or do i just put same seals on exhaust
 
PC Seals on Intake Valves and regular on exhaust. What little Oil gets on the Exhaust Valve Stem will help cool and lube the Guide. Not a whole bunch but helps a little. Just my 2 Cents. Tim
:thumleft:
 
thanks.

Now i have all parts figured out.
I will order all parts what i need for my build at once, because of shipping cost USA to Finland
much cheaper this way.

I just need to hear from my machinist so i can confirm my measurements.

Here is main reason i want still get decent MPG after rebuild
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/special/world/gasoline-prices/

8$ gallon....
you guys have cheap gas
even in Russia gas cost more :D

Look Norways gas prize, but dont get hearth attack :D
 
OUCH ! I think I will tune up my Suzuki Samurai and drive it for the gas savings and drive the Hot Rod on weekends ! Good luck ! Without getting too deep you should look at your Ignition real close. I have also had success with D.U.I. (Davis Unified Ignition) Distributors. You talk with them and spec. out your car and what you are going to use it for and they will dial it in for you. For MYSELF it was the single most impresive thing I have EVER done to a car (Hot Rod). Now, my past 3 projects have had them and most of my close friends (Gear Heads) have them also. You will not belive the difference. Low resistance wires also help. Go to their Web site and their claims are true as far as I am concerned. My Daughters '65 Barracuda will have one in it shortly. Tim (Dad)
:thumrigh:
 
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