Need disc brake help!

[71DonutDuster]

So I purchased a new disc brake kit from marketplace. It was a good deal and he threw in tubular uppers and new lower ball joints. This is going on a 71 Duster. So I am finally getting the K member assembled and attaching ball joints to spindles and I see the LH markings on one side and RH on the other. Once together this puts my caliper to the rear of the disc. I don’t know if this is correct with this kit. I just remember reading posts on here the caliper goes to the front. Am I missing something.

 

[66Valiant528]

Other than caliper hose routing it is not a problem Some set ups need you to move the caliper to the rear for swaybar link clearance. But I've never used your kit. Contact the manufacturer.

 

[Professor Fate]

Need a lot more info- "a kit from marketplace" doesn't give us much to go on.
Is it a factory or factory based setup? Kelsey-Hayes (4" bolt circle, 4 piston), later A body (single piston, 4 1/2" bolt circle), F/M/J body (similar to A, taller spindle), a Scarebird type kit with a potpourri of different parts, or even a Wilwood, Baer or other proprietary style kit?
Calipers to the rear is commonly done to provide sway bar clearance.

 

[doug 371]

The ball joint can only work one way. The spindle determines where the caliper sits.

 

[71DonutDuster]

So I had a 73 Scamp I removed all of the brake components. So I have them to reference. But doesn’t work when I used the stamped parts for their respective sides. The ball joints came in the box from Moog and are correct. The spindles look factory but the caliper bracket is on the wrong side when laced in the correct orientation regarding the R or L stamped into the metal. I am not sure of which kit but it is somewhat based upon original setup. Has 73 calipers. Like I said I could swap the right to the left and it matches…

 

[dano]

If factory disk spindles they can be swapped side to side if the correct ball joint for that side is put on it to locate the caliper forward or rearward. As the Professor stated this was for 72-down sway bars to help clear.

But, as stated, we need to see pictures of what you have an are talking about to get a better idea.

 

[71DonutDuster]

 

[71DonutDuster]

First two pics you can see the left stamp in the parts. And where the caliper bracket has to mount…. If it isn’t a big deal I will keep them as they are calipers to the back. What has to happen to make it work that way?

 

[MoparLeo]

Just be sure that the bleeder screws on the calipers are on the top or you will never get the air bled out.
Make sure the brake hoses are the correct length and don't interfere with any suspension components.
Clean the paint off of the caliper slides and any contact points. Keep them clean, do not use a bunch of brake goo.
Flush complete brake system, make sure the rear brakes are properly adjusted and use brake fluid from a sealed container, no old opened bottles.

 

[Professor Fate]

First two pics you can see the left stamp in the parts. And where the caliper bracket has to mount…. If it isn’t a big deal I will keep them as they are calipers to the back. What has to happen to make it work that way?

Longer brake hoses, spec'ed from either a '69 Camaro disc brake car or a '76 and up F/M/J Mopar (Aspen, Volare, etc.).

 

[71DonutDuster]

Thanks! Just to be clear how do I get the bleeder on top? Can the calipers be swapped side to side? Or are there extra place to put the bleeder and block the other off?

 

[MoparLeo]

The calipers only have a bleeder on one end if they are standard 73 up calipers. Post a picture of what you have. We haven't seen all you parts.

 

[dano]

Thanks! Just to be clear how do I get the bleeder on top? Can the calipers be swapped side to side? Or are there extra place to put the bleeder and block the other off?

Calipers are left and right just like the lower ball joints. When you put the caliper on, pick the one that buts the bleeder facing up, as in the highest point on the caliper so air works its way out otherwise it will not bleed out.