Need Guidance on couple of 340 issues

[LuckyJackson]

Run into a Couple of problems on 1971 Demon 340.

1) Throttle cable snapped. I've Installed a new one but I'm wondering where it meets the firewall....Is there supposed to be a grommet there? When I removed the broken one, the stopper disc on the old cable was kind of stuck in some black goop on firewall. Is that the remnants of a grommet melted by 50+ years of engine heat? Or are you supposed to put some Seam sealer/caulking/gasket stuff on that spot so the disc adheres to it and stays flush? Or does the pressure hold it to the firewall?


2) I'm trying to install an oil pressure sending unit (because it didn't have one). It's a 340 with a rally dash....so I have a gauge. The car has an Edelbrock LD340 intake manifold that may have been from the factory/dealer, or at least has been on 50 years.

Which raised post on the manifold does it go on? The one in the back without the bolt, or the post with the bolt a few inches toward the carb? Also the unit (part #2495222) won't fit in either post because the threaded rod to insert in the manifold is a bigger size (presumably for a stock manifold).

Am i supposed to use an adopter? Are there such things? Is there a corresponding sending unit that I'm supposed to get?
There must be others who have these hi rise manifolds....What are you using for a sending unit when you have an oil pressure gauge, and not a light? Any help on these issues is appreciated. Thanks.

 

[missing linc]

1. The throttle cable should have a spring clip on the inside that holds it in place.

2. An oil pressure sending unit may require an adapter to clear the intake, applications vary, but the only place to mount it is on the top of the engine block, at the rear, beside the distributor. Sorry, I don't have any photos on my phone.

 

[-Boosted-]

Oil Pressure sending unit doesn't go on the intake. It goes on top of the block behind the intake. Look for a threaded plug behind the intake, slightly towards the passenger side.

 

[j_anderson]

here is a photo from another member showing the location. Should be a threaded hole on the back rail of the block toward the passenger side.

 

[LuckyJackson]

Yes I attached the spring clip behind the gas pedal. On the engine compartment side the stopper was in the black goop. So no grommet between the stopper and firewall? Maybe a previous owner just set it in some sealer. I will look again tomorrow for a place for the sending unit behind the intake. There's only an inch or two to the firewall though. Thanks for the responses.

 

[Professor Fate]

It goes here.

The bosses you're trying to thread it into are for the coil mounting bracket.

 

[4spdragtop]

BE CAREFUL! In regards to repop throttle cables. I bought one and 1st time i tried it the whole sheathing slipped/let loose on it.
You may want to find a good used one.
Shouldn't be any goop for it.

 

[JDMopar]

Don't give in to temptation to twist the oil pressure sender in by grabbing the top of it with Channel Lock pliers. I had a friend who did that on a Challenger once and he had to go buy another one because of it. Use an open end wrench on the hex. You will be better off taking the distributor out to do the work. I have that same sender on the 360 in my 71 Challenger that has an LD340 on it, and it clears just fine.

 

[Inertia]

Your engine appears to have an aftermarket oil pressure line in the place the sender is supposed to go, down by the distributer base..
Do you have an aftermarket oil gauge, is so, the tube to that gauge is now in the place that electrical sender is supposed to go.
A "T" fitting can be screwed into the block, and both tube and sender can be used.

Good luck.

 

[Dartswinger70]

Make sure you have the right sender for the ralley dash not an idiot light it will mess up the guage (ask me how i know) the wrong sender will have a male blade connector on it the correct sending unit will have a round button that a female blade connector slides on to.

 

[Dart Frog]

I fiddled around with factory sending unit and never was really happy with the results. Me personally I like a mechanical oil pressure gauge coming right out of the factory sending unit port in the block. I also have the factory rally dash.

 

[LuckyJackson]

Yes, Got a good look down there today. Copper tube coming out going to an aftermarket gauge....How did I miss that?!? Always thought it was a tach that was added. Not sure what I'm going to do. Not experienced enough to remove distributor with any confidence yet. I will put the dash bezel in next week and fire it up finally with key. Been working on rewiring dash harness and I want to make sure everything works before I tackle this. Don't think I'll need a mechanical oil pressure gauge but I will wait and see. It's been 5 years since this car started with a key. Thank you all for the help, you think you know a lot and then you brain lock on something like this.

 

[Inertia]

That tube is going somewhere, if it's not hooked up to a gauge, better make sure it is properly capped, or they'll be oil everywhere.

The distributor doesn't have to come out, you should be able to get a fitting to have the sender or tube come out the side of a brass fitting "T", with the other commingr out of the top.
This will activate the factory and auxiliary gauge.

Good luck .

 

[Swinger 340]

Yes, Got a good look down there today. Copper tube coming out going to an aftermarket gauge....How did I miss that?!? Always thought it was a tach that was added. Not sure what I'm going to do. Not experienced enough to remove distributor with any confidence yet. I will put the dash bezel in next week and fire it up finally with key. Been working on rewiring dash harness and I want to make sure everything works before I tackle this. Don't think I'll need a mechanical oil pressure gauge but I will wait and see. It's been 5 years since this car started with a key. Thank you all for the help, you think you know a lot and then you brain lock on something like this.

Put a little Teflon tape on the male end of the sending unit, it could get a little messy if not. Sounds like you had a big project to start with. Before turning the key, double check all your hook-ups and make sure all the grounds are attached, and all connections are sealed from touching anything that should not be touched.

 

[LuckyJackson]

Good advise from both of you. thanks, I'm going to leave the mechanical line in for now. I've got to get this dash bezel in and see if my modified 1973 dash harness is functional. Bench tested a couple of times and there should be no issues. There's a hundred things I could do on this car but first it has to start/run/move. Thanks to all helping me through this process.

 

[340sFastback]

Throttle cable remove two nuts on firewall and pull gas pedal out. Throttle cable hooks to gas pedal. Foam seal goes between firewall and gas pedal bracket. No goop or anything else is needed.

 

[Woody500]

Put a little Teflon tape on the male end of the sending unit, it could get a little messy if not. Sounds like you had a big project to start with. Before turning the key, double check all your hook-ups and make sure all the grounds are attached, and all connections are sealed from touching anything that should not be touched.

Teflon tape is the cause of many oil leaks. You must wind it the right way and threads must be clean and dry. And hanging over end will get in oil system. So forget Teflon Tape, unless you are schooled on it.
Just buy Permatex Thread Sealant. It comes in a tube and you can apply it, but NOT on last thread to keep no oil contamination.

 

[Swinger 340]

Teflon tape is the cause of many oil leaks. You must wind it the right way and threads must be clean and dry. And hanging over end will get in oil system. So forget Teflon Tape, unless you are schooled on it.
Just buy Permatex Thread Sealant. It comes in a tube and you can apply it, but NOT on last thread to keep no oil contamination.

Of course there is the correct way of using Teflon tape as in not using a sealant on head installations. I took a head off once and most of the openings were plugged up. I have also seen too much tape can break off the oil pressure stem. It's not what you use, it's how you use it. They will work, if used correctly.

 

[Woody500]

Of course there is the correct way of using Teflon tape as in not using a sealant on head installations. I took a head off once and most of the openings were plugged up. I have also seen too much tape can break off the oil pressure stem. It's not what you use, it's how you use it. They are work, if used correctly.

Don't see how to blame teflon tape for stem breaking off, not even "too much". It takes side pressure, vibration or possibly over tightening.
Sure you weren't trying to pry on the distributor with a screwdriver & slip?