skep419
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Battery works great (optima) had good voltage when testing hei wire.
Need help NON mopar 1967 Pontiac Lemans 326
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Battery works great (optima) had good voltage when testing hei wire.
You are brave, one arcing plug wire and you would of had a big fire ball in the face.
Disconnect the fan next time and use a propane torch not lit to find vacuum leaks, way less volitle, but still could light off.
The timing is your problem. You have the distributor installed WRONG. The vacuum advance can on a Pontiac points toward the driver's side. Then you will be able to move it enough to get some good timing in it.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
After watching the video Rusty has nailed it. The timing is off.
I think rrr is onto something,some of the hei distributor wire retainers had two different #1 positions on them.
Depending on the application. Typical sbc point #1 at cylinder one on engine block. Yours shows towards firewall. Should leave you enough to adjust timing as needed.
Depending on the application. Typical sbc point #1 at cylinder one on engine block. Yours shows towards firewall. Should leave you enough to adjust timing as needed.
skep419
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Figured that out after searching what a carbon point was for hei distributor.
Even if the distributor is is clocked incorrectly if the rotor is firing number 1 it shouldn’t matter right?
Even if the distributor is is clocked incorrectly if the rotor is firing number 1 it shouldn’t matter right?
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
Correct it does not really matter as long as the timing is correct but as I said by the video that is a timing issue if the carbon point is in place as it looks.
skep419
No show, all go!
I’ve had the initial from 10-20 with no change.
You can make any point on cap #1. But you need the range of motion to get your timing on the mark. What are you using for a timing light? Did you verify tdc vs the balancer and timing tab?
Btw, i had an optima battery once. Not a fan.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
Try to back it down and see what happens. The early motors were around 6 to 8 degrees.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
And that is with the vacuum unplugged from the distributor.
Yes it matters if you cannot move the distributor enough to get enough initial timing in it.
skep419
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Made sure the piston was at top dead center and verified the balancer mark. Not sure what brand timing light. Mine isn’t a dial one so i could only bring it to ten (marked on the timing cover). The one I borrowed is a dial one.
skep419
No show, all go!
skep419
No show, all go!
I will report back after the distributor is in it’s correct position. How much initial?
Well, IMO, it's very obviously a timing problem. So, also IMO, you should get the timing DEAD RIGHT according to the service manual, then, if you still have issues proceed. I have seen this before where someone had the distributor in in a similar fashion and when we put it in correctly, the engine ran right.
Lastly, and also my opinion, unless a distributor is not installed correctly as per the FSM, it isn't right. I have had Mopars that would not run right without the distributor indexed correctly.
Yes, they "should" run the same no matter where the vacuum can is, or no matter where number one is, but from my experience, that is by far not always the case.
As short a time as it would take to correct, I would have that distributor in right.
Lastly, and also my opinion, unless a distributor is not installed correctly as per the FSM, it isn't right. I have had Mopars that would not run right without the distributor indexed correctly.
Yes, they "should" run the same no matter where the vacuum can is, or no matter where number one is, but from my experience, that is by far not always the case.
As short a time as it would take to correct, I would have that distributor in right.
It all depends on the engine. Can you tell us some about it?
skep419
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Good question. Cam slightly larger than stock (unknown) stock heads and bottom end. Headers.
Ok. Then I would start at about 16* and work your way up. It will probably take a good bit of initial timing. Pontiac combustion chambers are machined very smooth, so hot spots are not a problem. The compression is probably a true 8.5 or less, so I am sure it will like a lot. Basically, keep creeping it up until you either get starter lug or spark knock and then back it off. But you will also want to end up limiting total timing to around 34-36* with the vacuum can unplugged and around 3K RPM.
Does that help?
Does that help?
Whether they are open or closed chambers, I don't know, but here is how the chambers are machined. They are quite nice right from the factory.
skep419
No show, all go!
Yes. I’m a rookie on this gm stuff
If you need some more help, just PM me. Maybe we can get on the phone if we need to. I will be glad to help.
mopar head
Well-Known Member
If this is a new car for you are you sure it`s a yak 326? someone sneek a 307 in there?
Pontiac never made a 307.
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