need help with a switch

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diymirage

diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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i added a rear blade to the plow over the summer and now that ive been using it, ive noticed i dont like the switches

the switches are the most basic normally open momentary switches

one wire in, one wire out


now, what i want is either one switch with two positions, or two momentary push buttons, my main concern is, i want them to light up

i think one switch would be the cleanest...would that be a DPDT switch ?

my two main concerns are that i want the switch light to be on at all times (not just when i engage it) and that i am not feeding power to anything from the switch, i simply want to use to to complete the circuit

would this switch work for that purpose?

Amazon product ASIN B09LQNZ43C


1669943957893.png


or, any other switch you guys can suggest?
 
SPST is a Single-pole/Single Throw switch,
a basic on off device. If it is lighted, it will have a third post or wire which you use to ground the bulb. The bulb will be on anytime there is power to the switch. Which means I don't think you can use this type of switch on the ground side of whatever load(device) is powered up from another source. In this case you would have to use the switch to power up your load. If the switch is not of sufficient load carrying capacity, then you use a hi-current relay, usually called a solenoid, and turn it on with your SPST switch.
If your load is a DC motor, like a winch, that needs to be reversed, then yes you have to use a DPDT, which a Double Pole/Double Throw switch. (basically two SPSTs in one housing with one toggle) But again, it has to be of sufficient current carrying capacity for the load.
Switch-style #2 is what you want.
They make this kind of HD switch specifically for this application, but I've never seen a lighted one.. But that doesn't mean that you can't wire a remote bulb to it. You can find this switch and the relays/solenoids at any place that sells trailers or a place that sells ATVs and Side-by-sides.

Incandescent bulbs are not particularly fussy about in which direction the current is going thru the filament. but I think LEDS are
Hope that helps
 
thanks AJ, it looks like the pump has silly noids on them, so we are talking about relatively low draws

here is a wiring diagram for the remote i have now


it all makes sense to me, except for the white "common" wire
i dont know what that one does

if i see this correctly, i can draw from the black wire to light my switch
i should be capable of running a dedicated ground for it, thats no issue

but i guess im at a loss for what the point of the white wire is

(in my mind, i simply needed to close the circuit between black and green to lower it, and red and white to raise it, but that just dont make no sense now)

Untitled.jpg
 
this video seems to explain it, if i understand it correctly, the white "common" goes to the "starter relay" of the pump

so when i press on button, it will power up the pump, and open the "lift" port

when i press the other button, it will power up the pump and open the "drop" port



so, i should be able to have a common positive, and a double throw switch

put red on one pole, green on the other
and then make a jumper so i have white on both poles


correct?



 
AJ/FormS said:
yup, that should work.
Click to expand...
awesome

now i just got to figure out how to make that work without the common jumper jumping from the green to the red, and vice versa, when i power one up
 
i ordered a switch, should be here this weekend, here is how i intend to wire it up

switch3.jpg
 
I’d wait until there’s a good 2 feet of snow on the ground and it’s colder than a well digger’s backside before you start working on it! It will be so much rewarding to do it then instead of now when there’s no snow and temperatures are above freezing!!
 
I'm a bit confused by all this because I've not seen a basic explanation of how exactly the original operated. If it is a simple up/ down deal, you should only need 3 wires. The white common??

The switch you ordered is simply a double throw momentary with added LEDs so it has to be in a hot leg switching circuit to provide power for the LEDs

Is there a secondary function? If so you need a different switch or an added push button, and be careful, as that could cause a feedback problem, depending.
 
67Dart273 said:
I'm a bit confused by all this because I've not seen a basic explanation of how exactly the original operated. If it is a simple up/ down deal, you should only need 3 wires. The white common??

The switch you ordered is simply a double throw momentary with added LEDs so it has to be in a hot leg switching circuit to provide power for the LEDs

Is there a secondary function? If so you need a different switch or an added push button, and be careful, as that could cause a feedback problem, depending.
Click to expand...

the OEM switch has 4 wires
one hot, one going to the "up" solenoid, one going to the "down" solenoid" and one common

from what i understand, the common goes to the starter solenoid on the pump

so when i want the blade to go up, i need power to the up solenoid, and i need the pump to turn on, so i need power to the pump solenoid

when i want the blade to go down, i need power going to the down solenoid, and i need the pump to turn on, so i need power to the pump solenoid


so i intend to wire the hot wire from the pump to post 6

the wire going to the up solenoid to post 7 and the wire for the down solenoid to post 5

i will then put two diodes on the common wire, with one going to post 7 and the other to post 5
(the diodes should allow power to the common when the button is pushed without feeding back onto the other post)



on the switch i ordered the left side is for the LEDs, so if i wanted the LEDs to light up when pressing the switch i would put power to post 2 and ground out post 7

but since i want these LEDs to be on when the truck is on, i will run a keyed wire to post 3 and then jump it to post 1

still grounding out 7 should have my LEDs be on when i want them too



i think


makes sense?
 
That makes sense. "Steering" diodes if properly installed should do it
 
Years ago (decades) 3 of us had successful plow lifts using our steering pumps. We used double ended cylinders for up/ down, and of course matched cylinders (I did not have this) for blade angle. Everybody "lucked out." The level in the steering pump changes on up/ down because of the volume used by the cylinder rod. We overfilled them and when all the way up, the level was right the low/ fill mark. Left/ right angle, having matched cylinders, used NO fluid

We just used manual valves, plumbed in before the pressure line to the steering box. The lift kills steering boost, but the lift only takes 1-2 seconds, so it is "not noticed. I don't know why more systems don't do such.

We used simple linkage rods or Morse cables to extend the valve lever operation into the cab.

Part of the reason is that all 3 of us had bought used plows, with the hydraulics in various states of disrepair. Back then the Meyer lift system was a chicken-sh*t system with a motor on an eccentric driving a pump jack, or what amounted to such. They failed often. And they all used a tremendous amount of electrical power.

I still have that old Meyer blade---which I paid 250 for in the mid 70's--and use it on the little Farmall

IMG_3806.JPG
 
The switch should be here tonite

This glorious mess is the wiring, it is all ready to hook up

The three yellow ones are keyed positive

2 will go to the leds, the 3rd most likely to the winch (post)

The brown one is the positive lead coming from the pump, i will iether use that one or the 3rd yellow to power the pump

The green wire is the down solenoid, the white is the up solenoid, both of which have a diode leading into the pump started wire, which is the red wire


Finally we got the black wire which is the ground for the leds


As long as i can physically fit the switch in the spot I want it should be smooth sailing

20221208_151306.jpg
 
Last edited:
I love it when a plan comes together (I did run the keyed on to the pump, made more sense to me)

20221208_191803.jpg
 
67Dart273 said:
Way too fancy.........
Click to expand...

wasnt just about fancy, i wanted to be able to see where the buttons were at

the way it sits now, i can keep my right hand on the front plow controller and reach the rear plow buttons with my thumb
 
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