Need quick help on brakes

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cudacrazy67

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Will a 73+ brake booster/master cylinder and prop. Valve work on Kelsey Hayes brakes? I want to stay factory looking with parts.
 
The 73 booster and master cylinder wont look factory. Early disc brakes used a dual diafram booster. Its longer and smaller diameter. it will bolt up though
 
I know the earlier are are different looking but will 73+ booster and master work on Kelsey Hayes brakes?
 
I wouldnt think the kelsey hayes would make any diffrence. Just my opinion.
 
Actually they COULD (be different) as there is no reason to believe the multi-piston calipers use the same pressure to rear bias as the newer calipers, and the rear brakes might be different as well

Those factory valves were designed for one thing---as built from the factory

Aftermarket adjustable valves are not expensive.

Mine was "lucky" Versailles disk brake rear axle, unmodified brake system and no prop valve and 73/4 front discs, the prop ratio seems pretty well balanced!!!!
 
I think the pressure differential front to rear would be about the same for either.
The difference would be in area/volume. That's the same factor that plays in wheel cylinder bore diameter, master cylinder bore diameter, and subsequent pedal travel required to reach pressures in the different applications.
Will it bolt up ? Yes
Will it stop ? Yes
How much pedal travel is required is the unanswered question in mix matched systems.
 
His pedal goes all the way almost to the floor to stop the car, what does he have to do to have the pedal stop sooner>
 
If everything else is good, meaning front rotors and linings aren't about gone, rear brakes adjusted, and of course no air in the system. a larger bore master cylinder would be my next consideration.
 
I cant answer that one. There is a variety of master cylinders for the different applications. Others may have some parts numbers with specs to offer.
There are a couple of other factors involved in pedal travel to consider... pedal push rod lengths, booster plunger adjustment.
 
Rockauto gives bore diameters for many of the MC's they list. In A's, manual bores (~1"D) are usually a bit larger than power (~15/16'D). That is due to the lever ratio in the power boosters.

As RedFish and 67Dart273 said, the prop valves were tuned for a certain front, rear disk combination, and many other variables. I am guessing most people don't have the original friction materials (asbestos) in the pads and shoes, nor the original skinny bias-ply tires, nor the same weight distribution, and often not the original wheels. Ideally, you test where skidding occurs on a wet parking lot. Ideally, adjust it until the fronts skid just before the rears. Easy to do with an adjustable prop valve. Otherwise, you would have to change rear wheel cylinders or such to change the ratio.
 
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