New Motor for the Cuda - MRL Performance 340 Stroker

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A quality built motor built by an expert Mopar Technician is a good investment. Learning how to make the car work together with all it's related parts is an ongoing challenge, but part of the fun of the hobby. Over coming frustration with success when you identify something that was holding you back is rewarding.

I use Jomar 100% no bypass oil filters on my race motors. They have no place on a daily driver, but they could very well save your motor from having any metal pumped throughout the oiling system if you should ever have a minor problem that introduces some metal into your oil sump! I highly recommend them! Especially on a new motor.

I had a pushrod adjuster back off and drop off the rocker when the motor had a few hundred miles on it. (The info A little aluminum from the bottom of where the rocker got beat up was in the head around thee area of the failure. When I cut the oil filter open, which I've done every time from break-in to this incident and every time I change my oil, I used to always find a little something in there, but especially after break-in and then again after the rocker incident. I wonder how much of that would have been bypassed around a traditional filter and been circulated deep into the bowels of my oiling system without the Jomar filters. I change my oil very frequently mileage wise. it's usually more the time it's been in there that gets me to change it. The filters stay really clean now, but the first 4 or 5 changed, you could see stuff in there from the break-in and the rocker arm incident.

There's A LOT of skill involved in consistently launching a car hard. My respect goes to the guys without electronics too "help them get the job done. I know they have their place in racing and make for incredible consistency, because you can dial all the electronic stuff in( an art in it's own right), but being able to resist stomping the pedal all the way through the floor board just after the last yellow lights and nailing the green with consistent, super low reaction times is awesome!!!

Driver's with the mental discipline, big horsepower and years of experience who can work the throttle from partially open in the low gears and harder and harder as traction starts to build with the speed in the higher gears until you are wide open and heading for the finish is one of the more difficult skills in racing. Especially since track conditions vary so much from lane to lane and change as the day goes on. It's a thing of beauty to watch, but the pleasure it must bring to the driver as they really hook at the edge of the limit for their set-ups must be ******!!!

I heard a track announcer use that phrase when he was trying to explain why a top fuel driver kept at the sport after over a dozen crashes, some of which nearly ended his life, broke his back and rung his bell hard several times at the old Bayland's Race Track in Fremont, CA. It nearly killed him, but he kept coming back to race. The announcer who's voice was so famous at that venue, explained when he hits the throttle , it must be ******!"

The track has since been closed for so many years, like so many other places, and they wonder why street racing is so epidemic with the younger crowds??? Us older folks never do that kind of thing!! That track was virtually at sea level and the cool thick air from the bay made that track famous for some of the fastest times ever.
Throw a stick shift transmission in the equation, and that's where the legends are born. It's an extremely difficult thing to launch a car consistently and bring great joy to those who are hooked on this expensive sport. I just wish the nearest track wasn't over 2 1/2 hours from my house.
 
Well the numbers are in on the 378, what do you guys think?

520HP @ 6200 and 490TQ @4500.

It idles pretty good and pull 9-10 inches of vacuum at 1000rpm idle
 
Must be pretty nasty if 1000 is the lowest it will idle decently.
 
Well the numbers are in on the 378, what do you guys think?

520HP @ 6200 and 490TQ @4500.

It idles pretty good and pull 9-10 inches of vacuum at 1000rpm idle


Looks like another nice "Mike" build. Looking at the peak hp number vs the peak tq number and their rpm spread tells me the cam choice was biased towards a serious, but streetable, power curve. A 520hp small block cammed with 10 inches of vacuum is nothing to shake a stick at. With the right Converter, gear, and tuning, that gonna be a blindingly fast car. Congrats! :thumleft:
 
Well I'm thinking I'm going to run a 3500 stall and the car has a 3.91 gear. I will run the car on the street 90% of the time.

What do you guys think of this set-up?
 
Well I'm thinking I'm going to run a 3500 stall and the car has a 3.91 gear. I will run the car on the street 90% of the time.

What do you guys think of this set-up?

Buy a quality converter from Precision or the other high end manufacturers recommended on these forums. There are several great ones. Their converters are way more efficient on the highway and have less slippage and lower heat build up when cruising. They are just made better. Look at spending around $400 even a bit more, but it's money well spent!
 
Well I'm thinking I'm going to run a 3500 stall and the car has a 3.91 gear. I will run the car on the street 90% of the time.

What do you guys think of this set-up?

That is exactly what my 68 fish will be running. Now get you some TTI headers, a 3" X pipe and some good flowing mufflers and tear up the streets! I use a PTC 'vert.
 
TTI's step headers are on order, car already has a nice breathing exhaust system with an X pipe.

What about Turbo Action converters, any good?
 
My engine has very similar specs, but I'm about 20% street 80% race and I use a 4.10 gear. I have a PTC 8" converter in my 727, works great. It flashes to 5000 RPM, but drives around town nicely. Since you are more street you will probably want a tighter converter...probably in the 3500-4000 range....but I would call a reputable converter company (take your pick), give them ALL your car and engine specs and let the experts tell you what you need (probably a 9.5").

The right converter/tires/suspension and the power you have, you could be in the high 10's...with the wrong converter/tires/suspension, you could be in the 12's.
 
TTI's step headers are on order, car already has a nice breathing exhaust system with an X pipe.

What about Turbo Action converters, any good?

I'm running their 17805S behind my 416 in my Challenger with 3.91 gears, work well. Stalls at about 4200 and drives on the street fine. I am running an aux trans cooler too.
 
TTI's step headers are on order, car already has a nice breathing exhaust system with an X pipe.

What about Turbo Action converters, any good?

Can't be said enough, get one specifically built for your application. I'm going to use PTC when I order mine.
 
Can't be said enough, get one specifically built for your application. I'm going to use PTC when I order mine.

Sold! I will call tonight and get one on order.

Hopefully in the next week or two I will post some pics/video of the motor running in the car ...
 
It was a pleasure doing this engine for you Jim. I love the car! Here are the dyno sheets.

450TQ+ from 3650-6050rpm Peak 491TQ 4400rpm
500HP+ from 5500-6500rpm Peak 520HP 6150rpm

9.5 to 1 378ci 1.375 HP per CI
 

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Thanks again Mike, it was a pleasure working with you.

You got me out of a bind with the parts I purchased, made the power I was targeting, beat the timeline you gave me and stayed on budget!

What more can anyone want out of a performance shop?

Next year we are going to do a turbo Gen III Hemi together...

Jim
 
Guy's one negative comment and 10 responses to beat him down,If you let it go those guy's will disappear,OP NEVER said this was for his wife to begin with and 500hp from a 340 Mike should be able to do with his eyes closed,Great block to start with. keep us posted-Thanks Steve


Sorry to say I am from the same state as the negative poster guy.
Never once have I seen that guy post anything positve or worth while doesn't bring anything at all to the table.
 
In with the New....

should button up the install Sunday. (maybe not, need to run a new 3/8 fuel line and electric pump)

I ended up using a set of Hooker Super Comps we had from our Challenger build, just had them thermal coated.

Also Called Turbo Action and they recommended using a 3500 tight converter so that is what I went with.

Bad phone pic, looks awesome in person!

Hope to fire it over the next few days

Jim
 

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Looks good. Can't wait to hear it run.
Did they say what the advantage of the tight over the standard would be?
 
Motor is almost done, should be on the dyno in a week or two.

What type of power do you think it will make?

MRL 378 Stroker Motor
340 Block 4.100"
3.58 eagle Crank
2.100 eagle sbc H Beam rods
Diamond Piston 9.7 comp
Edelbrock 63CC Heads CNC ported my MCH
Houghs 1.6 roller rockers
Solid 243/251 duration @ .050" .550/.570 lift
Edelbrock RPM Intake
Kevco pan with baffles
750 quickfuel carb

Looks great , MRL knows how to build and put together a great package , street-able and FAST . Wish he were closer and I had the $$ , always interesting builds with lots of power . I think he has great prices as well , you get a lot for the $$ . As soon as I have the $$ I'm going for an MRL 340 .
 
well I'm done for the weekend.

I need to pick up a new 3/8 fuel line tomorrow and install the electric pump, other than that its ready to fire.
 

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Looks good. Can't wait to hear it run.
Did they say what the advantage of the tight over the standard would be?

They told me the tight would flash at 3300 - 3500 and better for the street, the loose would be 3800 - 4200 and a better choice for the strip. since the car will see 90% street they recommended the tight.
 
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