New parts doesn't always mean good parts

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Dubob

Dubob

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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This is a subject that has been brought up many times here. Thought I'd pass on my personal experience. Yesterday after almost 4 years I finally got to drive my BB Demon, though it was only out of the garage. I've done many changes to the car electrically, ammeter bypass, running a Denso alternator and a FBO ignition module. I purchased all new wiring and modified the harnesses for my needs. Removed the voltage regulator wiring, bypassed ballast resistor etc. During the course of winter I rebuilt the steering column. New key tumbler, ignition switch, turn signal switch and key in buzzer switch. All name brand components Standard Motor Products and NOS Mopar. So here's the meat of the story. I prime the carburetor put fresh gas in the tank and check all fluid levels, climb in give the gas a couple pumps and crank, it fires almost immediately. Till I let off the key then it dies!! So I'm like oh crap, all the mods I've made what could this be, I used the wiring diagrams, double checked everything with a Digital ohm meter when I made the changes. So I'm thinking about the issue and I know it's firing in start. I jumpered battery to coil + crank it and all is good. Starts fine continues to run when I let off key. Just gotta remember that turning key to off does not shut car off. So I start digging into the problem at hand. I only have the dash frame in the car so I start simple. Check voltage to ignition switch, good. Back probe switch connector on out put for ignition 1, switch on, no voltage. Now this is a brand new switch, but there's a problem. So I disconnect connector ohm out red wire to dark blue wire, infinite resistance. Jiggle key around, no change. Here's the moral of my story, that name brand ignition switch that's brand new is defective. So don't always "assume" that new part is a good part. Sorry so long winded, just an experience I had and wanted to pass along.
 
I work in a body assembly plant and we say that all the time, just because it is new doesn't mean it is good

Sorry that you got a bad switch, but it happens even with original equipment manufacturer
 
yes. and take that defective electrical part back to parts store?? maybe you would hear: " we don't accept back used electrical parts". OR " you bought that bad electrical part way back and we can't find the invoice for it":.. yes MR O Reilly!! LOL
 
barbee6043 said:
yes. and take that defective electrical part back to parts store?? maybe you would hear: " we don't accept back used electrical parts". OR " you bought that bad electrical part way back and we can't find the invoice for it":.. yes MR O Reilly!! LOL
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If you can sorta prove they are actually defective, they need to take them back. "returns" are like, "I bought this headlight switch, plugged it in and used it for awhile, and it was not the problem, now I wanna bring it back and get money"
 
Chased a charging problem on my Duster.
5 Alternators bad OOTB
4 voltage regulators, bad OOTB

There is no icon to show my anger and distraction with this simple case of B.S. Shoody *** crap! Then! As I run out of gas 5 minutes after I get it all sorted out.
 
Wow...exact same issue yesterday with the O brand BWD ignition switch. Used it for 8 starts. No continuity to blue or ACC. I'll be testing this thoroughly. In the last 6 months I've had a bad EGR, starter, alternator, half shaft and brake shoe with failed lining. I guess they buy it cheap so they can afford to replace it 2-3 times with that lifetime warranty.
 
I went through the same ordeal with a new switch. Second one went bad in 3 weeks. Took my old OEM switch apart and cleaned it up, still working. Quality Control is a thing of the past.
 
67Dart273 said:
If you can sorta prove they are actually defective, they need to take them back. "returns" are like, "I bought this headlight switch, plugged it in and used it for awhile, and it was not the problem, now I wanna bring it back and get money"
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There's certain questions I ask on returns. If you defect it out on exchange, I got no problems defecting it. After all, if you want to exchange it for another one, easy enough.

If you brought it back and don't want another one, then we might have an issue and I'll start asking some questions. Responses play a vital role in rather or not I'll give you your money back.

I've had customers ask about loaner parts. "If I put it in and it's not the problem can I get my money back?" Hardly. If you're guessing at the problem and trying to use the part to eliminate or confirm your guess, then I'm not returning your money. Simple as that.
 
I changed my points and condenser once with new and got a new dead condenser off the shelf. I was just 16 and it took me 3 days to check everything else first before finally putting back in the old condenser and it firing right up.
 
Hersbird said:
I changed my points and condenser once with new and got a new dead condenser off the shelf. I was just 16 and it took me 3 days to check everything else first before finally putting back in the old condenser and it firing right up.
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Yup. "me too." In the 70's I always cared a spare condenser and don't remember ever needing it. Bought Standard / Blue streak and always re-used the old one.

So far as "us" one big problem has been happening a LONG time is that rebuilders will improperly assemble one brush of an isolated field alternator. This effectively turns it into a 69 / earlier unit EXCEPT that if you accidently hook the blue wire to the wrongly grounded terminal.............you can burn up the harness...........

"Back in the day" several of my friends suffered failures of the column integrated 4X flasher switch, causing no brake lights.

And.......I used to just HATE Mopar single points disributors. "Junk."

So far as bulkhead failure? Hell I had this happen on my 70 RR and this was one HELL of a long time before Al Gore invented the internet!!!

I reamed out the connector, ran some large gauge wire through it, and hooked it back up!!

Later, "up here" we used to see a fair number of MELTED AMMETERS primarily in pickups with electric winches and or snow blow hoists.

======================

I WILL TELL YOU GUYS this: "Back in the day" when we had decent quality replacement parts, there were a LOT of parts ruined by "bigger hammer" mechanics. This is something you simply cannot get away with today.........you'll kill something "important" like, maybe, the EFI ECU
 
Since you bypassed the ballast, did you jumper, solder, tie together ignition 1 and 2? If not, you don't have 12v to your ignition when you release the key. Normally its only 12V during cranking, then goes through ignition 2 when you release the key to run. Igntion 2 runs through the ballast to reduce voltage to the original ignitions. Aftermarket ignitions like MSD need 12V all the time.
 
Car was built late 70, bought the engine harness from Evans Electrical for the big block. It was only set up for the single ballast. Yesterday I patched the old switch together to confirm my issue and sure enough everything works as advertised. Yes I jumpered the ballast connections. With the FBO ignition they want a true 12 volts to the module. I even went so far as running a designated ground to the ignition box. Thank you for the input.
 
OK but the FBO does NOT use the 5th pin, it's not relevant. The "main power" to a 5 pin box and the "only power" to a 4 pin box is already 12V unless there is drop / connection problems in the wiring.
 
Correct the FBO is 4 pin. The harness was already set up for the electronic box when I bought it. The 12 volt wire for the module was spliced into the harness where the dark blue/tracer branches off to the voltage regulator, ballast and alternator off pin N of the firewall connector. The ballast jumper is to provide voltage from the brown wire, firewall Q, while cranking, to the ignition module and alternator excitation. Or am I way off base here and totally missing something?


Edit: I see where my original post may be confusing, I didn't bypass the ballast, the connectors are jumpered together to eliminate the ballast. Could have used better wording.
 
Factory front wheel bearing in my Explorer lasted 90k plus..had to replace it 2 times over a 2 year period because the (new) replacement are "jap crap"..:violent1::violent1::violent1::violent1:
 
Dubob said:
Correct the FBO is 4 pin. The harness was already set up for the electronic box when I bought it. The 12 volt wire for the module was spliced into the harness where the dark blue/tracer branches off to the voltage regulator, ballast and alternator off pin N of the firewall connector. The ballast jumper is to provide voltage from the brown wire, firewall Q, while cranking, to the ignition module and alternator excitation. Or am I way off base here and totally missing something?


Edit: I see where my original post may be confusing, I didn't bypass the ballast, the connectors are jumpered together to eliminate the ballast. Could have used better wording.
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All you need to do is tie the blue you mentioned "branches off" to the brown, and both feed to the alternator, regulator, ignition power, etc.
 
Thank you, that's what the jumper FBO includes with the ignition module does.
 
Just an update, new switch installed and all is as it should be.
 
I bought a pair of points for my dual point and a new condenser. I waited 3 days for the first set which were wrong and another day for the correct ones. I put them in and reinstalled the distributor. I had the distributor out 4 times and the 5th try it ran good again. The problem? A faulty "new" condenser. Argggh!
 
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