NEW SLANT 6 OWNER NEED HELP

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According to some tests I have seen, Valvoline VR1 is better for older cars. It's about the balance of additives in the oil, and in south Florida and other high heat areas the thicker oil is recommended by the Owners manual in your Glove Box.
 
TF360 said:
According to some tests I have seen, Valvoline VR1 is better for older cars. It's about the balance of additives in the oil, and in south Florida and other high heat areas the thicker oil is recommended by the Owners manual in your Glove Box.
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I don't necessarily agree with this. The oils made today are much better than when our engines were new. Even back then, 10w-30 oil was recommended for most conditions. All my engines from a 170 slant to a 360 (except my 2013 Fusion) use a name brand 10w-30 conventional oil (what ever happens to be on sale). Even my racecar. It is also what I ran in my "turbo" engine when It was running. I would defer to running a thicker oil, if the engine was being used in extreme conditions, such as towing or "maybe" continuous running at high "interstate" speeds in the summer, for extended distance.
PS: This is assuming the engine is in good condition.
 
I run full synthetic in everything that doesn't have a rope seal
Its not much more $$$
And has higher compression strength
 
nutz said:
I run full synthetic in everything that doesn't have a rope seal
Its not much more $$$
And has higher compression strength
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I just think it is a waste of money to run synthetic. conventional oil is fine for a slant.
PS: I'm from Hopatcong, NJ. Island Dragway was my home track for many years.
 
Sweet....was there with the jerk last week
Im right on 31 north of the bowling ally
I don't even stock any non synthetic....
Its only an extra $20 an oil change
 
Yeah many a car they fell off
My porsche has 2nd air no cat
The feed back (02) was needed so the cats didn't melt down
Euro cars that were retro fitted with cats
Needed a feed back system
 
nutz said:
Sweet....was there with the jerk last week
Im right on 31 north of the bowling ally
I don't even stock any non synthetic....
Its only an extra $20 an oil change
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I must have driven past your place every week fora few months or more each year 2014-18.
There's was a kid with an e-body I met at Rt 46 and the road to Hope. He said he was going to Island. I haven't been to Island since maybe 1991. Maybe this summer if the stars align just right.

As far as the oil for the 225. I don't see how one could go wrong with any legit API graded 10W-30 or 10W-40 if its a bit worn. My view on 'synthetics' is they can have benefits if doing a lot of short runs, cold weather starts, and for extended oil change intervals. If the engine is a leaker or a burner - then the cheapest legit engine oil is the way to go.

Depending on the condition observed in the engine bay, and whatever records handed over, I'd check over the basic 'tune up' items to see if they look like they need replacing.
Spark Plugs
Plug wires
Cap & Rotor
Air filter
PCV valve

Condition of
hoses
belts
 
nutz said:
Sweet....was there with the jerk last week
Im right on 31 north of the bowling ally
I don't even stock any non synthetic....
Its only an extra $20 an oil change
Click to expand...
I must have driven past your place every week fora few months or more each year 2014-18.
There's was a kid with an e-body I met at Rt 46 and the road to Hope. He said he was going to Island. I haven't been to Island since maybe 1991. Maybe this summer if the stars align just right.

As far as the oil for the 225. I don't see how one could go wrong with any legit API graded 10W-30 or 10W-40 if its a bit worn. My view on 'synthetics' is they can have benefits if doing a lot of short runs, cold weather starts, and for extended oil change intervals. If the engine is a leaker or a burner - then the cheapest legit engine oil is the way to go.
 
I bought it in 16 I think
It was a dump....and still is
This old guy sam owned it ...every thing he did to the building was hacked
Not much left for me to do now
Just gave $$ to my hvac guy to ac the shop
9 years of working on it and its home
Next big thing will be repave ....then it will be nice looking
 
Back to the oil thing again. I'd be more worried about the condition of the engine after "no servicing". Those things crud up pretty quick without frequent oil changes and cleaning the crank breather.
 
rustydustyD4rt said:
Hey y’all so I have this 75 dodge dart swinger slant 6
But I haven’t serviced it at all which is sort of stupid for me NOT to do.
But I don’t want to accidentally buy junk for it that I don’t need.
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It's hard to "not" buy junk these days as damneer everything in the auto parts stores currently IS junk. Hopefully this tariff thing helps to correct that problem before long.
As far as spending money unnecessarily on your car there's so many people that don't want to spend a nickel on their car that they don't "have" to. And they don't "have to" until they're stuck on the side of the road.
As soon as you reasonably can after buying a new to you vehicle: you need to do
Complete tuneup (cap, rotor, wires, plugs), plus pcv, breather filter, gas and air filters, oil change, all belts and hoses plus a complete inspection for brakes and suspension is the bare minimum on a newly bought vehicle, and these things are automatic. Don't think about it/ just do it / all of it. Now. It's called " preventive maintenance" for a reason. And if there's a "good" (barely), "better", "better yet" and "best, " don't cheap out and buy anything below the "better yet" grade.

Avoid parts store "house brand" unless you can verify/guarantee who actually made those parts for the parts store. Unless you like re-do's
I sure don't unless it's been many thousands of miles ago since last done.
 
When I first got Vixen, the oil light took longer to go out than I thought it should at cold startup. I got tired of it so out the little 170 came. I removed the oil pan to find about a SOLID 1/2" of rubbery, spongy sludge in the bottom of the pan with the exception of a solid circle where the pickup was resting on the bottom of the pan. So I cleaned it all out. Since I had the following parts, I put them in. New oil pump, rod and main bearings and timing set. All of that was still in good shape, I just did it anyway since I had it new. When I got done, the oil light went out by the starter, before the engine fired. Was the oil pressure low? Heck if I know. All I had was the light. They are bad about coating the pan bottom so I wouldn't be surprised if yours isn't the same. Just pull it and find out.
 
Yup. I recently had that same situation with a 64, 225 that I bought for the /6 to SB trans adapter.
I had somebody who wanted the pan off of it, who swapped pans with me, and the pan I had to send out was exactly like that when I pulled it. I started cleaning it to ship out with a 2" wide scraper right into a garbage can.
 
We use a ton of napa filters at work. The cheap ones are china but the "gold's" still have been USA. Maybe they're using up old stock still?
 
If I remember correctly, Wix and Purolator are made together. Only because they are closer, I stop at Advance Auto for the filter (Purolators). On a newer car I'm a diehard Mobil 1 guy. My current daily driver is a 2010 Caliber with a 5-Speed. The car just hit 250,000 and the oil has been changed every 5,000 miles. No smoking at all. My Grand Caravan is the same way with 125,000.

If this was a newer engine, I'd use the Mobil 1. With this probably run on Dino Oil over the last 50 years, I'd stay with that. A good 10W30 or 10W40. I found older engines raised on Dino will start leaking with synthetic. If the engine ever gets rebuilt, then use the synthetic and add the ZDDP in it with the flat tappet cam.

I'm putting a 360 Magnum in my '69 Valiant and that will get Mobil 1.
 
Unleaded fuel wasn't widely available until about 1975 other than Amoco I worked at a convenience store in high school and remember them taking out the premium pump and replacing it with unleaded.
 
Swifster said:
If I remember correctly, Wix and Purolator are made together. Only because they are closer, I stop at Advance Auto for the filter (Purolators). On a newer car I'm a diehard Mobil 1 guy. My current daily driver is a 2010 Caliber with a 5-Speed. The car just hit 250,000 and the oil has been changed every 5,000 miles. No smoking at all. My Grand Caravan is the same way with 125,000.

If this was a newer engine, I'd use the Mobil 1. With this probably run on Dino Oil over the last 50 years, I'd stay with that. A good 10W30 or 10W40. I found older engines raised on Dino will start leaking with synthetic. If the engine ever gets rebuilt, then use the synthetic and add the ZDDP in it with the flat tappet cam.

I'm putting a 360 Magnum in my '69 Valiant and that will get Mobil 1.
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Was told years ago..don't know if true
Rope seals don't like synthetic....leak
 
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