** NEW ** Trick Flow LA cylinder heads introduced at SEMA

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Can there be problems with head gaskets blowing when they are considerably thicker? It makes sense to me that since there's an increased space that's not solid metal this could be an issue. I've read all the pictured books, still learning. What I don't want to do is buy a set of heads just to find out I can't get to a CR that will allow me to run pump gas etc. or have a street engine. These are new heads but what I'm hearing here is closed chamber is closed chamber, guess I'm too concerned with what the manufacturer is saying.

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Not if it is designed for it. IF the gasket company makes a .080 gasket, they designed it to work.

The manufactures have different specs and out looks as compared to high performance companies, race houses and teams. The manufacturer has to meet longevity, emissions and such concerns the general John Q. Public doesn’t want to contes or deal with ever.

Once you get into modifications for more power, beyond the factory components, some issues can crop up that were never introduced to the working parameters of the stock engines.

To use a (very) thick gasket, I suggest going to Cometic for your gaskets and pay the price. I am currently using .100 thick head gaskets on the wife’s car. (The very last person you want to hear whine, complain, *****, and point a finger at yourself with!)

Further back in time, I had a very high compression 360. Then came disater with the everyday car and a NEEDED my hot rod retuned for daily useage.

I ordered up MP’s cylinder head gasket steel shim and used a pair of gaskets in each side to drop the ratio like a rock for 87 octane. It was used in a 80 mile round trip commute for about a year without issue.
 
Oh, thats right. Even more impressive. When did you get the Indy’s

I bought a complete but apart R1 engine, 3.79" crank and the Indy heads, sold the rotating assembly and put the 4.125" crank in it.
 
Not if it is designed for it. IF the gasket company makes a .080 gasket, they designed it to work.

The manufactures have different specs and out looks as compared to high performance companies, race houses and teams. The manufacturer has to meet longevity, emissions and such concerns the general John Q. Public doesn’t want to contes or deal with ever.

Once you get into modifications for more power, beyond the factory components, some issues can crop up that were never introduced to the working parameters of the stock engines.

To use a (very) thick gasket, I suggest going to Cometic for your gaskets and pay the price. I am currently using .100 thick head gaskets on the wife’s car. (The very last person you want to hear whine, complain, *****, and point a finger at yourself with!)

Further back in time, I had a very high compression 360. Then came disater with the everyday car and a NEEDED my hot rod retuned for daily useage.

I ordered up MP’s cylinder head gasket steel shim and used a pair of gaskets in each side to drop the ratio like a rock for 87 octane. It was used in a 80 mile round trip commute for about a year without issue.

Thanks. Can I ask what that does to the intake alignment? I understand that milling the intake must happen when shaving the block, does or can "raising" the head up create fitment issues?
 
Thanks. Can I ask what that does to the intake alignment? I understand that milling the intake must happen when shaving the block, does or can "raising" the head up create fitment issues?
You may have to elongate the intakes holes to bolt it on. Also, if it’s a radical height added, thicker intake gaskets.
 
The heads seem pretty interesting and it is nice to have another options for the small block build

I did find this on
 
Some guys get a little to carried away with stuff they read in books (quench) and say that's the only way of going about something. I had the 340 open chambered Edelbrock heads on my 408, flat-top pistons, a deck that was never touched, and a 1008 Felpro gasket and even after the bore was shot from 3 rebuilds and in need of its fourth it ran 9.70's in my Duster and 10.08 in my Sons Duster in Summer heat at Keystone Raceway Park, Pa at 3200 pounds.
It's not the only way to do it but quench flat out works on a street engine real well by allowing you to run higher compression and pump gas. My 408 iron headed (EQ's) is 10.03 to 1 and has no problem running on 92 octane. Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm guessing that in your race car you had a bunch of compression and probably ran race gas thus quench wasn't a big deal with your combo
 
It's not the only way to do it but quench flat out works on a street engine real well by allowing you to run higher compression and pump gas. My 408 iron headed (EQ's) is 10.03 to 1 and has no problem running on 92 octane. Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm guessing that in your race car you had a bunch of compression and probably ran race gas thus quench wasn't a big deal with your combo

My 51027 Diamond pistons were advertised in the 11.1 area at zero deck (flat-tops) and like I said I wasn't at zero deck. Plus i always open up my chambers some to help flow. That engine ran 10.0's with BP93 pump gas. Then I wanted to play with a set of Econo W2 heads I had sitting here so I threw one on my flowbench and it maxed out at [email protected] lift and then fell on its face. I didn't spend a lot of time porting it and stopped at 305@600 concentrating on low lift numbers because I only had a 520 lift Racer Brown cam in it. Being that engine had a cast iron head I ran 4 gallons of 93BP and one gallon of 110 race fuel for safety and it ran 9.80's. Now I run alcohol so I will be stepping up compression on my future builds with strictly aluminum heads.
 
My 51027 Diamond pistons were advertised in the 11.1 area at zero deck (flat-tops) and like I said I wasn't at zero deck. Plus i always open up my chambers some to help flow. That engine ran 10.0's with BP93 pump gas. Then I wanted to play with a set of Econo W2 heads I had sitting here so I threw one on my flowbench and it maxed out at [email protected] lift and then fell on its face. I didn't spend a lot of time porting it and stopped at 305@600 concentrating on low lift numbers because I only had a 520 lift Racer Brown cam in it. Being that engine had a cast iron head I ran 4 gallons of 93BP and one gallon of 110 race fuel for safety and it ran 9.80's. Now I run alcohol so I will be stepping up compression on my future builds with strictly aluminum heads.
Well done
 
haven't seen these heads for sale yet. trickflow doesn't list them on there site. anyone know anything?
 
Would you have to run that head gasket or can you run one with a smaller compressed thickness? Also, can someone explain the closed chamber vs open chamber and the benefits/ negatives of each? Are the promaxx/ sidewinders closed or open chamber?
I am building a 318 with the kb167s. Will there be an issue with those pistons using the trick flows?
Thanks
 
That KB piston is a flat top if I remember correctly
that's not the problem
I read somewhere that the so called "Trick Flow" head has a minimum 4" bore requirement
so find out what it is
do you need to eyebrow/ chamfer/ notch for the intake valve?
chamber overhang the cylinder wall too much
I do not see where they moved the valves- which IMHO they should have done not to just have an "us too" head
hopefully they are as good as cnc'd brand x out of the box and not take a lot of blueprinting- but we'll see
as good as W2-W9 OTB?
 
The sales flyer they have been handing out says minimum bore is 3.830". See it on post 79 of this thread.
These heads are not intended to outperform a W2 or W9 race head. These are clearly marketed as a strong street strip head. If they come well prepped with a good valave job out of the box, they will likely become popular.
The same flyer suggests the FelPro 1008 head gasket, because it's a good gasket. You can run a different gasket for varying thickness, but if so, best to go with something good like a Comeetic Multi Layer Steel (MLS).
 
The ProMaxx heads are basically a closed chamber, as are the upcoming Trick Flow head. Read up on the supposed benefits of closed chamber heads as there is too much theory invloved to write here. Basically, with closed chambers you get benefits of quench and it's easier to increase compression ration during a build.
 
I read somewhere that the so called "Trick Flow" head has a minimum 4" bore requirement
Whoa! Way incorrect!!!! 2.02 + 1.60 + room around the valve.
See below!
hopefully they are as good as cnc'd brand x out of the box and not take a lot of blueprinting- but we'll see
as good as W2-W9 OTB?
Amen on there “hopeful” good quality in there OOTB state. IF they flow as well as they have advertised, that is about the level of a ported W2 head. Then an adventurous person will have to start porting them. It will be interesting to see where the head porters end up. I don’t see it getting to a W-7-8-9 level at all.
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Whoa! Way incorrect!!!! 2.02 + 1.60 + room around the valve.
See below!

Amen on there “hopeful” good quality in there OOTB state. IF they flow as well as they have advertised, that is about the level of a ported W2 head. Then an adventurous person will have to start porting them. It will be interesting to see where the head porters end up. I don’t see it getting to a W-7-8-9 level at all.
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Remember this is already a cnc ported head and most of the Trick Flow heads are pretty nice. Can you pick up more hand porting? Heck ya I know there’s more left but a bigger valve would be in my plans if I had a set. I’m betting an upgraded Head is on the planning floor for the diehard racers. Just like they did with the big block head.
 
Yea, already CNC’d just means to me they found something they like out of the port. How much more is left in the ports is where the head porters come in and try for more. Considering they advertise good flow rates, I think most can do very well as they come. I think this head is the final nail in the lower W heads coffin. I don’t know about the circle track efforts and rules.
 
I don't care if they are shipping right away this month, I just want to know how expensive they are going to be. Trying to decide whether to go with a set of W2 heads for my 340 and if these flow as well as that table shows my decision will be made, as long as the cost is reasonable and they don't require $1500 rocker sets.
 
I don't care if they are shipping right away this month, I just want to know how expensive they are going to be. Trying to decide whether to go with a set of W2 heads for my 340 and if these flow as well as that table shows my decision will be made, as long as the cost is reasonable and they don't require $1500 rocker sets.


Do NOT buy a cylinder head based on flow numbers. That ain't the way to do it.

If you have the choice of W-2 or the Trick Flow the W-2 is the answer. I don't care about flow numbers the way the advertising guys like to care about them.

That Trick Flow head will never be a W-2 head.
 
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