Nikkis 66 dart 270 daily driver.

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Thats what I was thinking, it has a rear seal leak right now and I do have a slant gasket kit sitting on the shelf. I will check the torque settings on all the guts and throw in a new rear main seal. I will do all this to the other motor even if I can't save the stock one. I may as well throw on one of the 2 bbl set ups I have even tho there is nothing wrong with the 1bbl that is on it now.

Anyone have a 66 dart gas pedal and cable for a V8 car or can you make the stock rod set up work with a 2bbl?
 
Here are your pics. Keep in mind that we haven't even washed or vacuumed it yet...

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JR, I really wish you would have taken some detailed pictures of the new project!!

Sorry to hear about the oil pump fiasco. When God gives you lemons...
 
I have a 6 cyl. gas peddle if you need it?I took it out and put in a 72 Duster peddle and cable when I went with the 360.Let me know if needed?Cool car,your bumpers and taillights look in very good shape compared to mine.
 
We got the motor out about 40 mins ago. Nikki scraped all the big chunks of crud off the K-member and we have to go get some degreaser and black paint for the suspension and misc brackets. The guy we got it from gave the top of the motor a resale red paint job and there is over spray all over the stock (nice) paint so we have to deal with that now, what would you guys use to remove black and red over spray with out hurting the stock paint under it? I will buff out and wax the engine bay before we drop the detailed motor back in.

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Looks like fun JR! I wish my wife would even get her hands greasy once in a while...Don't think too hard about that but I'm sure there's a joke in there somewhere. ;) I would maybe try some medium to light rubbing compound to get rid of that paint. If it's not too old it should be quite a bit softer than the original paint. Another thought is to sand it offvery carefully with something like 12000 grit paper. You'd probably have to go up to 16000 or so to get any gloss back on the original paint. I know that carb cleaner, oven cleaner and brake fluid will take old paint off but it might damage the stuff you want to save too.
 
JR, try a clay bar first. If that doesn't work, try some lacquer thinner in a small spot. It should take off the overspray without damaging the original enamel paint.
 
I got the pump housing out of the block with a slide hammer and started to clean the motor up for new gaskets and paint. I'm starting to think that the motor has been rebuilt somewhere during it's 114,470 miles of life. I am pretty sure that the tranny was gone through because there are no leaks , it is bone dry and super clean on the outside. Parts of the front suspension have been replaced as well so I think that this car was taken care of by the original owners until it sat for 4 years.

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This is just with some carb cleaner and a tooth brush! The motor was painted red in the car but under the red is some mopar orange and under the orange is clean metal like the block was hot tanked before and they did a fast rattle can job during a rebuild. I am going to clean up the outside then flip it over and pull the caps and see what the bearings look like. If they are fine I will throw in a new rear seal and button her back up.

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I didn't think that the factory used goop like that to seal the drain plugs?
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This is as far as I got before I ran out of carb cleaner. I will be getting another case pretty soon and finish the job.

Hey Gary, I still want to try and swing by this weekend and check out that slant you have, I still want a back up in the garage.
 
I would try a little lacquer thinner on a rag to get that overspray off of things. Just don't leave it laying on an inner fender too long.

Nice save on the numbers matching engine!
 
I got the block cleaned up and this is what the guts look like.

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I don't like this, there are no real bad fingernail catching grooves but still I don't want to have Nikki use it as a daily driver if the bearings look like this.

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I already knew that the rear seal was shot.
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So I'm thinking that this motor will get a quick main bearing rebuild, it didn't smoke so I will leave the pistons alone. Right now I have a few choices...

1- Use this (#'s matching) motor throw in new bearings and gaskets, pull the head, clean the carbon off the valves, new head gasket (just ordered another slant gasket kit today), 2bbl, repaint, detail and throw it back in.

2- Pull the running, painted (wrong color of red) late model slant out of the 48, drop it in the 66 and away we go. Then take the 66 motor and rebuild it for the 48.

3- Get the running 1972 95,000 mile slant from Redscampi, pull the head, clean the carbon off the valves (it's a habit when I get a "new" motor), new head gasket, quick gasket rebuild, tune up and paint, drop it in the 66 and drive it till it dies or option number 1 is done.
 
If it was me I would just take that motor and put new bearings, timing set, oil pump, carbon cleanup, and lap the valves and new seals. from your description driving it sounds like the motor is still in good shape. still get the other motor since its a good runner too plus it never hurts to have a back-up. Johnny.
 
I,m with Camd64.freshener up,another on the road,continue with the 48!Get marrigetdede??Be Happy!:snakeman:
 
I will leave the stock cam in the motor!
I will leave the stock cam in the motor!
I will leave the stock cam in the motor!
I will leave the stock cam in the motor!
I will leave the stock cam in the motor!
I will leave the stock cam in the motor!
I will leave the stock cam in the motor!
I will leave the stock cam in the motor!
I will leave the stock cam in the motor!
I will leave the stock cam in the motor!
I will leave the stock cam in the motor!
I will leave the stock cam in the motor!


I need to find some stock size main and rod bearings, cheap!

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You guys are assholes! :bootysha:

It's Nikki's car and it already does/did burnouts. The only upgrade other than HEI ignition will be a 2bbl carb and intake.
 
cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it
cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it cam it
 
Crank bearings are about $50 at Rockauto, unless someone has a new set just laying around that they want to sell you cheap.
 
God my garage is a frigging mess right now! I can't believe that I am rebuilding a motor on the floor!

So the new crank and rod bearings are on their way from rock auto ($116 after shipping), the gasket kit is on it's way from ebay ($34 after shipping), I will go to Delta cam in Tacoma and pick up a stock 71-80 regrind and lifters on Thursday for $49.50 (cam is 28.50 and lifters are $1.75 each), I have the block and head clean, all the carbon cleaned off the valves and I am just waiting for stuff to get here.
I am not pulling the pistons because there was good compression, no scratches in the cylinders and the motor didn't smoke. The only thing that I can think of right now is that I should polish the crank so what kind of polishing cloth should I use?
 
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