No Brake lights/flashers/signals 75 Dart

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Rockerdude

Rock n' Roll and A-bodies
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Hey guys Im really up in the air about figuring out why my brake lights, flashers and turn signals dont work on my 75 Dart sport. I checked several things under the dash with a test light and there isnt any power going to the brake switch, or the directional flasher. Please help!
 
I don't believe the brake switch would have any power unless the pedal is depressed.
I'm also assuming you have checked the fuses, and that you are doing this with the key ON!
I'd probably start looking for a bad ground (either at the fuse box, or going to the tail lights and blinkers) . I had a bad plug kill both my brake lights. There's also also a little flasher unit in the fuse box for the blinkers...but if your brake lights are dead too...I'd start elsewhere. Reverse lights work? Those are usually on the neutral SS, if it's an auto.
 
Check out your turn signal switch, pull the steering wheel and check for loose/worn connection.
Had an after thought: Maybe the pin connection got pulled/damaged, check the pin connector by the bottom of the steering column.
 
Sounds like the turn signal cam to me, I had the same problem in my dart a few years ago, I only had one brake light and no signals on the left side, but the flashers worked. Try replacing, it should fix it.
 
It may seem strange to think that the flashers and brake lights go through the turn signal switch, but I bet it will solve your problem. PM me if you would like a more detailed description and a few pictures of my situation. I recently had the same problem with my 69 Barracuda, and I assume your problem will be similar. After hours of testing and looking at the wiring diagram, I finally figured out why my brake and turn signal lights were not working. I ultimately determined that the wires on the back of the cheap Dorman turn signal canceling cam were not making contact with the electrodes on the top of the turn signal switch. The back side of the cancelling cam has two hard wires about one inch long that make connection with four electrodes on the top side of the turn signal switch. One of those hard wires is hot when the ignition switch is “On” and the other one is hot when the brake pedal is depressed. The four electrodes on the top of the turn signal switch are sort-of in a square. Using a jump wire, I determined that the upper right hand (UR) electrode sent power to right rear tail light, the lower left hand (LL) electrode sent power to right front parking light, the upper left hand (UL) electrode sent power to left front parking light and the lower right (LR) hand electrode sent power to left rear tail light. So when the turn signal lever (that moves the cancelling cam and the hard wires on the back) is flipped up for a right turn, the wire that is hot when the ignition is on will contact the UR and LL electrodes thereby activating and flashing the front and rear right hand turn signals. Conversely, when the turn signal lever is flipped down for a left turn, the wire that is hot when the ignition is on will contact the UL and LR electrodes thereby activating and flashing the front and rear left hand turn signals. When the turn signal switch is in the neutral position, the other hard wire on the back side of the canceling cam (the one that is hot when the brake pedal is depressed) is making contact with the UR and LR turn signal switch electrodes. So when the brake pedal is depressed, power flows to both rear tail lights. I bent the tips of the wires on the back side of the canceling cam up a bit so they would contact the turn signal switch electrodes, and everything worked fine, but I think I’ll still look for a better canceling cam. So ultimately I would say that most likely a new turn signal cancelling cam and (perhaps) a new turn signal switch is what you need. They are very easy to install.
 
Interesting.. I'm going to pull the steering wheel and see if I can find anything suspicious. Thank you!!
 
It is the switch! Dan stern lighting sells them and they are even Chrysler worth the price..
 
You should have power to your brake switch and turn flasher.
Your brake light switch has power to one side then when you apply the brake pedal it sends power into your column through your hazard/turn signal switch.
Your turn flasher has power and when you turn the signal switch it completes that circuit ,there is a bi-metallic strip inside the flasher that heats up and cools turning lights off and on.
.
I have a service manual for 1974 , not sure if 1975 is the same ? But for a 1974 A-body my FSM reads the following:
Fuse #2 should be power to the turn flasher .
Fuse #7 should be power feed to the brake light switch and emergency flasher circuit.

If your fuses are ok ( also make sure #2 and #7 fuse are getting power could be a feed problem into the fuse panel ) and you have battery voltage coming out of the fuse panel, then you have a break in the circuit somewhere.

Hands down the best tool I have ever bought to find an open circuit is the power probe ect2000.


[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ktsp6O9SiAI"]Spike TV Power Probe Commercial ECT 2000 - YouTube[/ame]
 
PM Sent to Harrison.
My 75 dart is having the same issue.
Cam was broken and would not hold in the left turn position.
All lights functioned normally.
Replaced the broken TS Cam with Dorman part.
Now all lights work normally EXCEPT I have no brake lights.
Good news is TS will hold in detent on left or right turn.
 
PM Sent to Harrison.
My 75 dart is having the same issue.
Cam was broken and would not hold in the left turn position.
All lights functioned normally.
Replaced the broken TS Cam with Dorman part.
Now all lights work normally EXCEPT I have no brake lights.
Good news is TS will hold in detent on left or right turn.

You should have started a new thread. Do you have power at the brake light switch?
 
Sorry for not starting the new thread.
I will right now.
 
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