No power.. Ammeter questions.

[Ibach73dart]

Cut that thing out of there and permanently splice the wiring. Older cars did not have it, it's not needed, and it's TROUBLE

So I should just connect it directly to the other end wire? The bullet connector just broke and I can’t find it anywhere at the auto stores. I needed this one

 

[Ibach73dart]

That doesn't show overheating. I think someone pulled too hard on the wires, separating them to place aftermarket T-taps on them. That white square scotch lock was placed too close to the harness connector. I have to add, I've never seen so many wire taps in one picture.

Yeah I’m going to remove all of that and the bullet connector broke up that’s why the wire came loose.

 

[Ibach73dart]

Update: I connected the black wire together using a new bullet connector for now and everything works!!! I’m done for now and thank you for all of you guys help.

 

[BillGrissom]

Good result and useful comments from all. If that white plastic connector is not original (check wiring schematic), I would remove it. I would connect each wire w/ solder and heat shrink. A guess is that someone put in all those guillotine wire taps to install a radio, perhaps techs at a car radio shop. They work fast, but are bad news for long-term. U-haul centers used to hack up the rear wiring harness like that to connect trailer lights. They pierce the insulation to allow corrosion, plus cut into the copper which can fail it over time. I had to de-Gomer the dash wiring in my two A-bodies.

I agree that you could re-use your ammeter if you clean the connectors well and solder wires to it, then use in-line connectors rated for 60+ A. If not cleaned of corrosion the solder won't flow well and ball up, making a "cold joint". The factory design w/ nuts wasn't good enough to last 40 years to conduct 60 A without heat. Only because you have a low-rust CA car did it last this long. Also worry about your bulkhead connector (many posts).

 

[RedFish]

This harness connector appeared when the ignition switch moved up into the steering column. The same connection heating happens at dash mounted ignition switch harness connectors and/or contacts inside the switch. This black wire feeds the fuse box. HVAC blower, wipers, park lamps, etc... The amp load does increase as the wiper pivot assemblies wear.
I really don't see the bullet terminals being any better than the OEM connectors terminals. You could solder those wires together but... If there is a overload issue, something will fail somewhere. Maybe a different electrical connection. Maybe tossing the nylon pivot bushings in the wiper linkage. Maybe the thermal interrupt at wiper motor or switch will stop the wiper operation but that's less likely. I don't have a crystal ball. I have only my experiences. Those did not include juke box, security system, or anything aftermarket. Bone stock examples with same fault(s). Good luck with yours.