No spark

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mopowers said:
I'd just run a new thick gauge wire from the alternator to the positive terminal of the starter relay. That alone takes a lot of load off of the bullkhead connector.
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But while doing so YOU MUST make certain the bulkhead connector is in good shape OR RUN new wire through the connector--eliminating the terminals. Then jumper the ammeter terminals together under the dash
 
mopowers said:
I'd just run a new thick gauge wire from the alternator to the positive terminal of the starter relay. That alone takes a lot of load off of the bullkhead connector.
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Did you leave the existing one or remove it?
 
67Dart273 said:
If you want to keep the ammeter, you must make certain it itself is in good condition. "I simply would not." And I like ammeters

The MAD thing creates a somewhat tricky parallel path, which causes both the original black alternator wire and the original red ammeter wire to become in parallel as one bigger wire to supply electrical loads from within the car. This part is goo. But to do so either the bulkhead terminals must be in good shape or run wire clear through

Crackedback advocates making sure this is so and then simply connecting a big jumper from battery to alternator WITH FUSE/ breaker in that wire. This is simple and works

There are a few ways to do this.

If you study the factory diagrams around 68is to 72ish and look for the modification for 65A optional alternators, there was a factory setup called "fleet/ taxi/ police" wiring, that was in fact a partial bypass OF THE BULKHEAD. It involved a larger gauge wire fed through a separate grommet--separate from the bulkead.
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Yes im gonna bypass the ammeter. As much as I don't want to im gonna simply because its already giving me issues and I don't want to burn my car to the ground. Lol I have seen that taxi fleet referred to before I will look into that thanks. I feel more phone calls coming your way soon lol.
 
dartfreak75 said:
Did you leave the existing one or remove it?
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On my 68, I replaced the red wire from the starter relay to the ammeter with a new thicker solid wire going through the bulkhead connector with properly sized fusible link, and didn't use the connector. Then I tied the two wires together that would've connected at the ammeter. I also ran a new thick charging wire with properly sized fusible link from the alternator to the starter relay. The system works great for what I need.

I also replaced the ammeter with a simple volt gauge in the cluster.
 
mopowers said:
On my 68, I replaced the red wire from the starter relay to the ammeter with a new thicker solid wire going through the bulkhead connector with properly sized fusible link, and didn't use the connector. Then I tied the two wires together that would've connected at the ammeter. I also ran a new thick charging wire with properly sized fusible link from the alternator to the starter relay. The system works great for what I need.

I also replaced the ammeter with a simple volt gauge in the cluster.
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I like this and it sounds easy enough.
 
I guess the only thing I don't get is the parallel with the old alternator wire (black) into the new red wire. Seems to me that would be like crossing two hots.

Screenshot_20210128-223506_Gallery.jpg
 
If you plan on keeping the ammeter in the dash nonfunctional and don't want to use a but splice connector, you could always put both ends on the same terminal.

dartfreak75 said:
I guess the only thing I don't get is the parallel with the old alternator wire (black) into the new red wire. Seems to me that would be like crossing two hots.

View attachment 1715679648
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By using the two wires to power the accessories off of the factory welded splice, it's essentially just using the two factory wires to act as one larger wire. It's not really needed though.

There's a hundred different ways to do this.
 
mopowers said:
If you plan on keeping the ammeter in the dash nonfunctional and don't want to use a but splice connector, you could always put both ends on the same terminal.



By using the two wires to power the accessories off of the factory welded splice, it's essentially just using the two factory wires to act as one larger wire. It's not really needed though.

There's a hundred different ways to do this.
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Oh i see because its just looping into itself. It is its own power source.
 
RustyRatRod said:
So what's wrong with crossing two hots?
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I am electrically stupid! I'm trying to learn and grasp all I can but wiring and electrical is not my strong suit at all. I always thought crossing two hots is a bad thing kinda like plugging an extension cord back into another outlet boom sparks fire electrocution.
 
OK think of it as connecting two batteries together. Like a jumper battery. The alternator is one battery, and the 'battery battery' is the other "battery." The reason they melt under duress is that "originally" the battery source was on one side of the ammeter, and the alternator was on the other.

What causes flow through the ammeter is that one or the other (battery or alternator) becomes LESS positive than the other.

For example, you are at a light. The engine is idling slow, in drive. It's a rainy dark cold night, so you have "everything" on. Lights, heater, stereo, wipers, what all accessories you have added

The alternator output is sagging, lower and lower, at the low RPM, so the battery is not "more positive" and it becomes the primary power source. Power flows from ground (neg) through each and all accessories, through the fuse panel, through the fuse panel "hot" bus or through the key "accessory" bus and ends up at the BLACK "welded splice" where power continues through the BLACK ammeter wire, through the ammeter, out the RED, through the bulkhead, and to the battery.

Now the light turns, you give it some gas, the alternator speeds up and becomes higher voltage output. NOW the alternator is "more positive" and it becomes the source. Instead of the accessories now going clear back to the battery............they now go from the welded splice (BLACK) and Y off the splice to the BLACK alternator feed out through the bulkhead and to the alternator.

The battery is now acting as a LOAD, because it became low during the idle. Now the battery is being charged, and so flows current through the RED through the ammeter and to the black and out to the alternator.

THE BATTERY IS NOW THE ONLY THING flowing actually through the ammeter, so the ammeter now shows a charge.
 
dartfreak75 said:
I am electrically stupid! I'm trying to learn and grasp all I can but wiring and electrical is not my strong suit at all. I always thought crossing two hots is a bad thing kinda like plugging an extension cord back into another outlet boom sparks fire electrocution.
Click to expand...

That's what happens when you cross hot and ground. Not hot and hot.
 
67Dart273 said:
OK think of it as connecting two batteries together. Like a jumper battery. The alternator is one battery, and the 'battery battery' is the other "battery." The reason they melt under duress is that "originally" the battery source was on one side of the ammeter, and the alternator was on the other.

What causes flow through the ammeter is that one or the other (battery or alternator) becomes LESS positive than the other.

For example, you are at a light. The engine is idling slow, in drive. It's a rainy dark cold night, so you have "everything" on. Lights, heater, stereo, wipers, what all accessories you have added

The alternator output is sagging, lower and lower, at the low RPM, so the battery is not "more positive" and it becomes the primary power source. Power flows from ground (neg) through each and all accessories, through the fuse panel, through the fuse panel "hot" bus or through the key "accessory" bus and ends up at the BLACK "welded splice" where power continues through the BLACK ammeter wire, through the ammeter, out the RED, through the bulkhead, and to the battery.

Now the light turns, you give it some gas, the alternator speeds up and becomes higher voltage output. NOW the alternator is "more positive" and it becomes the source. Instead of the accessories now going clear back to the battery............they now go from the welded splice (BLACK) and Y off the splice to the BLACK alternator feed out through the bulkhead and to the alternator.

The battery is now acting as a LOAD, because it became low during the idle. Now the battery is being charged, and so flows current through the RED through the ammeter and to the black and out to the alternator.

THE BATTERY IS NOW THE ONLY THING flowing actually through the ammeter, so the ammeter now shows a charge.
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Excellent job of explaining that I think I get that now! I appreciate it as always del!
 
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