No start please help!!!

[Gublakhan]

Hello All

I'm new to this site and was hoping you all could point me in the right direction. I have a 66 Dart Slant 6 and I recently replaced the dash and engine wire harnesses. I was able to start it once for about 10min -- everything seemed to be working, then I shut it off. I tried to start it again seconds later and nothing. No power to the interior.

I've tested the battery and seems good. I tested the relay, starter and alternator and they all seemed to be getting voltage. I can crank the motor by using a screwdriver and jumping the lead and solenoid posts, but it won't start. When I try to start the car from the inside there seems to be no current from the ignition switch. I've tested the ammeter posts and they seem to be getting current. My thoughts are that I burnt the ammeter, or the neutral safety switch has gone bad, or worst, the welded splice off the black ammeter wire is not working. Does anyone have any good suggestions regarding testing and where to start??

Thanks for you help!!

 

[RustyRatRod]

I would start at the firewall connector. They give trouble like no other. Wiggle it around real good and make sure it's making good contact. If it starts after that, I would take that joker apart and clean the heck out of it. A lot of people eliminate them completely with custom wiring harnesses. They have a source of contention ever since these cars were new.

There's also a fusible link or two within that connector that might have given it up, but check the connector first and go from there.

Do you have a factory service manual for your car? I mean FACTORY CHRYSLER. Not Haynes or some other garbage. That's the first void you need to fill if you don't have one. It will include complete wiring diagrams for your car.

 

[67Dart273]

If you have, say, headlights, it's not the ammeter

Auto trans? Might be neutral safety switch

 

[Mopar Tim]

I would start at the firewall connector. They give trouble like no other. Wiggle it around real good and make sure it's making good contact. If it starts after that, I would take that joker apart and clean the heck out of it. A lot of people eliminate them completely with custom wiring harnesses. They have a source of contention ever since these cars were new.

There's also a fusible link or two within that connector that might have given it up, but check the connector first and go from there.

Do you have a factory service manual for your car? I mean FACTORY CHRYSLER. Not Haynes or some other garbage. That's the first void you need to fill if you don't have one. It will include complete wiring diagrams for your car.

I agree bulkhead connector likely culprit.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Guys, hes tested the ammeter and found power on both studs.Check for power(key in run) coming out of the bulkhead on the blue wire.This wire has nothing to do with cranking. However, if theres power here, it tells us that battery juice is getting past the ammeter,the splice, the ig,sw, and down to the port.Next move to the yellow wire. Here you will need a test light or a VOM.The light should lite up when sw rotated to crank. No lite, move to the ig sw itself and lamp-test the yellow there. If lamp-test ok at the bulkhead move down to the relay.
But I tell you what, if youve lost both crank and ignition, but the headlights and horn work, then Id be looking at the J1 wire from the #1 splice to the ig sw. Its 12 ga, and red.Or the ig sw itself is bad.So do the blue wire power test first.