Noisey Lifter

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Mopar or No Car
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Location
Meadville, Pa
Hey guys I have a question. Yesterday I went out and started my 340 up and noticed that I have a noisey lifter and I mean Noisey but once the car idled for about 3-5 minutes it quieted down. The last couple times it did the same thing so I am thinking that I may have a weak lifter. I live in North Western Pa so with the cold weather my oil's viscosity is without a doubt pretty thick and could be the problem for the noisey lifter at the initial start. I have not torn the V covers off yet but am planning on doing that this week to see if I have a bad rocker arm pocket for the push rod which is not allowing the lifter to open. So my question is if I have to replace a lifter should I replace all or just the bad one? I was told that I should replace all along with the cam shaft and then I was told I need to check out all the lifters and if they all look good then just replace the bad one... Can you guys give me your opinon? Thanx
 
Usually it's a lazy lifter. The valve springs will slowly bleeed a lifter down when the engine sits. Then when you fire it, a lazy lifter won't pump back up fast. If it was me, and it only does it when it's cold and hasn't been run ina while, I'd probably leave it. If you have to you can replace only one. However you will need to perform the cam break in procedure regardless of whether or not it's 1 or 16.
 
The engine almost always stops in the same position. This leaves the same lifters repeatedly under spring pressure when standing.
We had a 3 ltr V6 in a Lebarron that was fine if driven daily. Let it sit for a week and it would rattle like is was coming apart for a good 3 minutes.
new lifter(s) will fix it, for a while anyway. Good luck
 
Recam it with a solid and never look back.
 
Moper and Red thanks for your guys reply. I truly believe that is the problem but still wanna pull the V covers off and check out the rockers. I know last year in the right bank I had a rocker failure and the push rod went right thru the top of the rocker so I guess you can call it Preventative Maintenance.
StrokerScamp-- Been down that road with solids before and wasnt really all thrilled... I'll stick with what I have... Thanx anyways
 
yea, put solid in it and be stuck with hearing the faint rattle all the time!. I HATE IT.LOL
 
then pull it and give it to me. I will like it.
 
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I find it's always worth a try to determine which lifter is giving you the problem............

And spray a fair bit of "Kroil" down that lifter bore, let it soak over night, and see what the result is in 24 hrs.


Honest truth, this has cured the problem for myself and others
7 times out of 10.

It's worth a try, it saves a lot of time, labor, and money, when it works.

And it works often.
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Marvel mystery oil works great for just this kind of thing.
If a lifter has a build up of any kind it cannot work smoothly and is always worse with a cold engine.
All lifters bleed off oil but sometimes the plunger will stick and not pump up right away causing a loose push rod and rocker condition.
If it goes away when the engine heats up then you will be fine.
Put a hole quart of Marvel in the oil and change it to a lighter 10w30.
good luck.............:thumbrig:
 
Moper and Redfish are right-Wynn's tune-up treatment works great to free "varnish" build up in lazy lifters,,.. we used to use a "lifter slide hammer" to remove lifters that had a varnish build-up below the lifter gallery.. chevy's were worst for it.. found that if we put in a can of "tune-up" in a week before we did cam job.. wasn't nec. to use slide hammer.. made for quicker cam changes on old engines.. lol .... Had Wynns rep and Bardahl rep attend at same time.. (no accident by us) to demonstrate their product.. Bardahl guy walked away.. tooo bad Wynns went broke.. was one of few additives we proved work.. there is still some product out there,, is a $5,oo fix.. if it works, imho..and if you like the noise,, do solid lifters as 340plot says.. only his noise is H/P piston knock.. which is a very good noise.. lol

Worked on a hemi power ski/DRAG boat.. the vee-drive was sooo noisy, you couldn't hear anything else, put tube of "Wynn's gear oil supplement" in,,,.. then all you could hear was blower drive belt.. (lost three pair of sunglasses on that boat, don't turn your head at speed) .. lol

Got in the habit of using the gear oil supplement when installing rear gear sets.. Zoom was notorious for noisy gear-set.. refused to install them after about 10 sets.. but factory and other aftermarkets, we had no problem. (yes we had proper pinion depth tools, and reading the tooth patterns), G,M. dealership came to us to borrow tools.. lol.. just my experience
 
Marvel mystery oil works great for just this kind of thing.
If a lifter has a build up of any kind it cannot work smoothly and is always worse with a cold engine.
All lifters bleed off oil but sometimes the plunger will stick and not pump up right away causing a loose push rod and rocker condition.
If it goes away when the engine heats up then you will be fine.
Put a hole quart of Marvel in the oil and change it to a lighter 10w30.
good luck.............:thumbrig:


Adding Marvel to the oil has a tendency to "Wake The Dead".

Little bits of stuff that has found a place to sleep, and harm nothing, can be woken up and circulated through the engine scratching and scouring surfaces.

This amounts to burning down your house to get rid of roaches.

This is just what happens when someone gets a classic car or truck that has always had "Non Detergent oil" and the first time the new owner changes the oil, they use oil with detergent in it.

A short time later the engine starts to smoke and act like a worn out pile.

The reason is obvious, all the crap that found a little nook or cranny to sit and sleep was woken up and is now flowing through the engine.

Now you will say, "But the filter will catch all that stuff".

Not before it does harm, I know these things..............

Because I have seen it with my own eyes.

It is best to treat just the offending lifter with Kroil, in nearly every case this is all that's needed.





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In the aerosol can, or by the gallon, it's the best available.

And it's just what's needed in this case.

Not just my opinion, it's a straight up fact.
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