Noisy Hydraulic Lifters.................

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xLURKxDOGx

xLURKxDOGx

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Possible a "dumb" question but do hydraulic lifters need oil through pushrods??? The reason i ask is when i got my 66 273 engine and stripped it down it had hydraulic lifters and no oil through pushrods so i kept it the same but now wondering if this is wrong??? If this is wrong can it cause oiling issues??? Would this cause a continuous ticking while the engine in running even when warmed up??



Jake
 
no, they oil through the galley, thats why they have the hole in the side and the reduced area. AMC and Magnums are the exact same size and oil through the top, via the hollow pushrods. Youll see some mechs completely solid down the side and some dumb bell shaped to lighten them.
 
a collapsed lifter will tick forever. The issue is the little check valve inside is hung up. you can take it apart and clean it. Every one I took apart, ticking or not had 'glitter' in the bottom of it. as there is no where for that crap to drain to.
 
by design..mopar LA engines oil thru the cam journals 2 and 4 up into the rocker shafts..

alot of newer lifters do provide for oil flow thru the pushrods...there are AMC lifters that fit mopar engines and your pushrods must have holes on each end ....

but i would stick with the original design thru the shafts.
 
70aarcuda said:
by design..mopar LA engines oil thru the cam journals 2 and 4 up into the rocker shafts..

alot of newer lifters do provide for oil flow thru the pushrods...there are AMC lifters that fit mopar engines and your pushrods must have holes on each end ....

but i would stick with the original design thru the shafts.
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Thats what i thought and wanted to be sure!! Thanks!!


Jake
 
My neighbor has so low of oil pressure in his engine that random lifters get noisy at idle.
I found out he paid to have new ones put in twice before he asked me about it.

I didn't say anything before that because I have found people get kind of annoyed if you point things out without them asking.

Well one day he asked about it and asked what the cheapest fix would be and I told him STP. :D

Hey, it worked.
 
TrailBeast said:
My neighbor has so low of oil pressure in his engine that random lifters get noisy at idle.
I found out he paid to have new ones put in twice before he asked me about it.

I didn't say anything before that because I have found people get kind of annoyed if you point things out without them asking.

Well one day he asked about it and asked what the cheapest fix would be and I told him STP. :D

Hey, it worked.
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I put 10-30 Royal Purple and it seams to be the same. That noise seams to be the same on both sides, could it be the lash??? I set 0 plus about a half turn which sounded right to me.


Jake
 
If you have the 273 adjustable rockers, 1/2 turn may not be enough. That would only be about .020" preload. I'd try 1 full turn so you get around .040" preload.

Synthetics don't seem to do anything to stop lifter ticking.
 
nm9stheham said:
If you have the 273 adjustable rockers, 1/2 turn may not be enough. That would only be about .020" preload. I'd try 1 full turn so you get around .040" preload.

Synthetics don't seem to do anything to stop lifter ticking.
Click to expand...

Full turn is worth a try.
The worst thing that could happen would be that it still made noise.
 
LOL. I recall a recent thread about noisy lifters and the OP went from 2 turns to 1/2 turn and it got worse.....but the problem was something totally different. Rockers hitting the valve cover baffles.. but probably not the case here.

Jake, are these stock lifters and cam, and the 273 adjustables? Or an aftermarket lifters and cam?
 
nm9stheham said:
LOL. I recall a recent thread about noisy lifters and the OP went from 2 turns to 1/2 turn and it got worse.....but the problem was something totally different. Rockers hitting the valve cover baffles.. but probably not the case here.

Jake, are these stock lifters and cam, and the 273 adjustables? Or an aftermarket lifters and cam?
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These are 273 adjustable, I though for a short minute it could be that but ran it without it on there and same noise.

Jake
 
trapster said:
Are you sure this is a hydraulic lift engine ?
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That is an excellent question!!! I was wondering that because its casting date is 1966. It hydraulic lifters in it during tear down so i just went with what was there. Possibly a bad choice? Could this be why i have 40lbs of oi pressure at idle and 75 at 2500??



Jake
 
If they had adjustable rockers from the factory, they had solid lifters. They are still solid unless they have been changed.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If they had adjustable rockers from the factory, they had solid lifters. They are still solid unless they have been changed.
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They didnt have factory 273 on mine, they were stamped originally but i put the 273 on there. What difference would there be between an engine that came from the factory with hydraulic vs solid???


Jake
 
xLURKxDOGx said:
They didnt have factory 273 on mine, they were stamped originally but i put the 273 on there. What difference would there be between an engine that came from the factory with hydraulic vs solid???


Jake
Click to expand...

If yours came with stamped rockers, it had hydraulic lifters.



Solid lifter engines had different rockers and pushrods.......and of course lifters.

Are you using the correct length pushrods? If you are using original factory pushrods, that could be a problem. They are a different length than what you need for hydraulic lifters with adjustable rockers.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If yours came with stamped rockers, it had hydraulic lifters.



Solid lifter engines had different rockers and pushrods.......and of course lifters.

Are you using the correct length pushrods? If you are using original factory pushrods, that could be a problem. They are a different length than what you need for hydraulic lifters with adjustable rockers.
Click to expand...

Im using Smith brothers pushrods that were measured using an adjustable pushrod checker. I went over everything twice before ordering them.


Jake
 
xLURKxDOGx said:
Im using Smith brothers pushrods that were measured using an adjustable pushrod checker. I went over everything twice before ordering them.


Jake
Click to expand...

Ok, then it sounds like you have that covered at least. Smart boy. Maybe you simply need more preload. That's a distinct possibility.
 
xLURKxDOGx said:
Could this be why i have 40lbs of oi pressure at idle and 75 at 2500?? Jake
Click to expand...
FYI, Jake, some data for you.... we just fired off our 340 yesterday with 10W30 and a high volume oil pump, with the bearing clearances on the loose side of the stock range: .002ish" on the rods and .0015-.002" on the crank.. 80 psi stone cold at 2000 RPM. When fully warmed up but not highway hot: 67 psi/2000 RPM , 45 psi at fast idle, and mid-upper 30's psi at 800 RPM idle. We ought to be able to get some highway-hot psi's soon.... should be licensed today.

The hydraulic lifters would usually lower oil pressure if anything at all.
 
Is there oil passages to the lifters on a solid lift engine ?
Is it different than an hydraulic motor ?
 
Just some of my thoughts after reading thru this. You 100% sure it's lifter tick? Smith pushrods, do they have ample clearance thru holes in heads at full travel? What are cam specs? Valves keepers have enough clearance to valve stems? Someone asked what lifters, what does the manufacturer recommend for preload? You may have to pull the intake and set each individual lifter to that preload. Are there any exhaust leaks at header/manifolds? Just some thoughts of mine. I also saw you had a thread about ignition trouble on fresh engine, I would be looking over cam very well if it's a flat tappet cam, the possibility of damaging a lobe cranking an engine to start and wiping break in lube off lobes is there also.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Ok, then it sounds like you have that covered at least. Smart boy. Maybe you simply need more preload. That's a distinct possibility.
Click to expand...

Ok, i went to comp cams site and they said between 1/2 to 3/4 past zero lash. I have tried 3 different setting and all give the same results.


69_340_GTS said:
Do you know what kind of lifters they are? Rhoads hydraulic lifters always tick.
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They are comp cams 822-16. I read about rhoades and steered clear because of that but maybe i should have gone that route cause the sound is the same!! :/

nm9stheham said:
FYI, Jake, some data for you.... we just fired off our 340 yesterday with 10W30 and a high volume oil pump, with the bearing clearances on the loose side of the stock range: .002ish" on the rods and .0015-.002" on the crank.. 80 psi stone cold at 2000 RPM. When fully warmed up but not highway hot: 67 psi/2000 RPM , 45 psi at fast idle, and mid-upper 30's psi at 800 RPM idle. We ought to be able to get some highway-hot psi's soon.... should be licensed today.


The hydraulic lifters would usually lower oil pressure if anything at all.
Click to expand...

Let me know what you find out. I took off the 90 degree adapter and put a regular oil filter on in hopes of a difference but another "swing and a miss"

Dubob said:
Just some of my thoughts after reading thru this. You 100% sure it's lifter tick? Smith pushrods, do they have ample clearance thru holes in heads at full travel? What are cam specs? Valves keepers have enough clearance to valve stems? Someone asked what lifters, what does the manufacturer recommend for preload? You may have to pull the intake and set each individual lifter to that preload. Are there any exhaust leaks at header/manifolds? Just some thoughts of mine. I also saw you had a thread about ignition trouble on fresh engine, I would be looking over cam very well if it's a flat tappet cam, the possibility of damaging a lobe cranking an engine to start and wiping break in lube off lobes is there also.
Click to expand...

I am confident it is the lifters. I had the covers off and the noise was still there. I ordered them based off the info i read about 1 1.5 threads showing on zero lash plus the preload. Why would i have to pull the intake to set preload individually? I might have to pull it to look at the cam though. It did take a few to get it to start so i suppose that is a possibility.


Jake
 
You may have to contact comp for the recommendation, the reason I stated about pulling intake to check preload on the lifter is to actually check between the top of plunger and the retaining ring of the plunger itself with using the adjustable rockers. A lot of people try to get as close to zero preload as it frees up some power, but a lot of hydraulic lifters have to have a certain amount of preload because the retainer isnt heavy enough to hold the plunger in place. But it would also help confirm things are set properly. I know there have been issues with the comps that others have had with ticking. Just was tossing out some ideas to look at. Sometimes we get frustrated and over look things. Here's comps recommendation on preload.
[ame]http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/COMP4-116.pdf[/ame]
 

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