Oil burn cloud on engine deceleration

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WSUTARD said:
Passenger
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We were discussing this on another thread. Drivers side for the pcv seems to be the preferred side. It probably won't take care of your problem but the next time you have your valve covers off switch them just for fun.
 
toolmanmike said:
We were discussing this on another thread. Drivers side for the pcv seems to be the preferred side. It probably won't take care of your problem but the next time you have your valve covers off switch them just for fun.
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I can give than a try.

My intake it torqued to 25lbs. Is that what everyone is running for an aluminum?

I torqued it inntwo steps and worked in a circle from the inside out.
 
WSUTARD said:
I can give than a try.

My intake it torqued to 25lbs. Is that what everyone is running for an aluminum?

I torqued it inntwo steps and worked in a circle from the inside out.
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It should be good.
 
toolmanmike said:
It should be good.
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So here is a question related. For two of the center bolts I have to use a small 3/8 box wrench to tighten the bolts. I have used my arm torque wrench to get it where I think it is.

Anyone have any ideas as to how to really torque these bolts? They are ARP bolts with 12 point heads. I can’t even get a socket with a wobble elbow on them.

Maybe I should switch them out to a standard head and use my crows foot end on them?
 
WSUTARD said:
So here is a question related. For two of the center bolts I have to use a small 3/8 box wrench to tighten the bolts. I have used my arm torque wrench to get it where I think it is.

Anyone have any ideas as to how to really torque these bolts? They are ARP bolts with 12 point heads. I can’t even get a socket with a wobble elbow on them.

Maybe I should switch them out to a standard head and use my crows foot end on them?
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You need a torque adapter:

Box End Torque Adapter.jpg
 
I thought I eliminated the smoke! Till I didn’t...

I tightened the intake bolts to 30lbs. Took it out for a run, first time down a hill, NO SMOKE! Second time down a hill, smoke :(

When I get to the bottom of the hill now I give the throttle a bump and it burps/clears the smoke out. Give it another bump and no smoke.

Anyone want to buy a 69 Coronet?
 
Well, she is 48 years old now, Burps might be necessary, just look out for the projectile from the carb. Ha
Sorry, had to say it. Mine still has a smoking issue and she's only 45 with a new power plant.
 
WSUTARD said:
I thought I eliminated the smoke! Till I didn’t...

I tightened the intake bolts to 30lbs. Took it out for a run, first time down a hill, NO SMOKE! Second time down a hill, smoke :(

When I get to the bottom of the hill now I give the throttle a bump and it burps/clears the smoke out. Give it another bump and no smoke.

Anyone want to buy a 69 Coronet?
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I love 69 Coronets. Pics? Dang, too far away!
 
Screams for a 440. replace the 340 with the worn valve guides
 
All that smoke lowers the value dramatically, and a 440 lowers it even more. I'll be out next week with my trailer LOL

So what is the problem with the smoke? Tell your neighbors that you work with the mosquito control board.
 
Well, finally got time to take it to the mechanic. The rings are the culprit. I asked them to do a leak down test. Before that they decided to stick a borescope in the cylinders. They saw signs of ring wash. Combine that with the fact that it is hard to start when its warm and the shop was 99% certain. Didn't even bother doing the leak down test.

So, looks like I have a decision to make. Rebuild the 340, or build up a 440.
 
WSUTARD said:
Well, finally got time to take it to the mechanic. The rings are the culprit. I asked them to do a leak down test. Before that they decided to stick a borescope in the cylinders. They saw signs of ring wash. Combine that with the fact that it is hard to start when its warm and the shop was 99% certain. Didn't even bother doing the leak down test.

So, looks like I have a decision to make. Rebuild the 340, or build up a 440.
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Refresh my memory....what carb do you run?

Bummer though.
 
WSUTARD said:
Eddy 1406.
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Hmmmm. I've seen Holley's with a bad power valve drip fuel into the intake and wipe out the rings. Not sure what could be wrong with an eddy that would make it wash down the cylinder walls.

It's it's a matter of a touch up hone and rings, fixing the 340 is certainly cheaper.
 
yellow rose said:
Hmmmm. I've seen Holley's with a bad power valve drip fuel into the intake and wipe out the rings. Not sure what could be wrong with an eddy that would make it wash down the cylinder walls.

It's it's a matter of a touch up hone and rings, fixing the 340 is certainly cheaper.
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Agreed it cheaper, but the amount of work is basically the same. Or at least that I can figure since I have never pulled an engine apart past the heads before.

I was actually just researching crate engines looking for a 440.
 
WSUTARD said:
Agreed it cheaper, but the amount of work is basically the same. Or at least that I can figure since I have never pulled an engine apart past the heads before.

I was actually just researching crate engines looking for a 440.
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Add in headers, distributor, transmission or bell housing if you still have both nuts, engine mounts...I'm sure I'm forgetting something but make sure you add it all up.
 
yellow rose said:
Add in headers, distributor, transmission or bell housing if you still have both nuts, engine mounts...I'm sure I'm forgetting something but make sure you add it all up.
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Ohh, I added it up. it equals, $$$$.

Again, I could decided to stroke the 340. Go to something like a 416. Seems like those kits are $2500ish. Lots cheaper than 440 build.

My refrigerator just died as well, so I might be sitting on this for a while.
 
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