Oil Pan Gasket help

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Nite Moves

Nite Moves

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Yep, i imagine some will think this is a rediculous question but i dont know for sure. I had to pull off my pan off my 318 due to leaks. I want to be dam sure it goes in properly. I had to take out the center link and drop the pass. side header as well lossen the drivers to get it out.I REALLY dont want to do it again. I have a new set of gaskets, does the rubber seals go in first or last? My cork gaskets seem to over lap the rubber is all...Thanks for any help. Edd
 

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I'm sure others have their methods, but I always put the rubber over the cork and then a bead of silicone RTV under the rubber where they meet.

I don't remember for absolute sure but I think the rubber is molded underneath for the cork end to fit right in it.

Here's an example.

FYI I always put a bead in the corners after the way it looks in the picture so I am sure to get a good seal in the corners.
 

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Can't say for sure on your question, as I don't remember how mine went together.

With that said, ifn you're doing this with the engine in the car, (read PITA), I would take the time to make sure the pan rail is flat around the bolt holes, then I would lay the gaskets out on it with a thin bead of silicone and let it set up for a bit, that will help hold them in place while you're fighting it to get it back in.


And for sure use some silicone where those meet.
 
Ed looks like u have it the right way. Make sure that the pan is flat where it bolts. Are you using rtv as well?
 
4spdragtop said:
Ed looks like u have it the right way. Make sure that the pan is flat where it bolts. Are you using rtv as well?
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yes.........good old silicone rtv for sure. Thank you everyone. Not what i was planning on doing. The back aint taking the damp cold weather and the weather here isnt gettin better.
 
Either way, don't rush it. Get it right so you don't have to mess with it again.
 
I do believe TB is correct IF you are putting the gaskets on the block first. Put them on the block rather than putting them on the pan as the OP shows. Use a sticky RTV to make them stick; the yellow windshield adhesive that comes in a tube will work well, 'speically for the flat gaskets along the sides.

For RTV, we always use the black stuff on pans gaskets (if inverted on the engine stand), and are not stingy with it in the corners in any installation, in-car or on the stand. Just a skim coat of RTV or adhesive is needed on the flat areas; if you use too much, it will 'grease' the cork gasket and it will more easily be crushed out of shape when you tighten the bolts and leak later.

Make sure you draw all the bolts down very evenly, and bit at a time on each all around; tighten them in 3-4 steps of gradually increasing torque, and don't over-torque.
 
I "WOULD" say, "just get a one piece oil pan gasket" but, after 49 years of production, nobody makes one.
 
Well this is perfect timing. I literally just 5 min ago fixed why I had to pull the engine completely out of the car, oversize oil pan so no room for anything in the car. The one piece gasket I bought for something like $30 or $35 fit horrible, I didn't have the experience to know how bad it was even though it was obvious, I thought it would tighten up and seal, it's expensive right? NO, I had to cut off about a half inch around the front corners and fill with RTV, then the rear was so ill fitting I completely cut it out and went with black rtv instead! Now I have a Kevco oil 6 quart oil pan but I don't think it is the issue because it lines up with the block, it was definitely the one piece gasket.
 
PhillH said:
Well this is perfect timing. I literally just 5 min ago fixed why I had to pull the engine completely out of the car, oversize oil pan so no room for anything in the car. The one piece gasket I bought for something like $30 or $35 fit horrible, I didn't have the experience to know how bad it was even though it was obvious, I thought it would tighten up and seal, it's expensive right? NO, I had to cut off about a half inch around the front corners and fill with RTV, then the rear was so ill fitting I completely cut it out and went with black rtv instead! Now I have a Kevco oil 6 quart oil pan but I don't think it is the issue because it lines up with the block, it was definitely the one piece gasket.
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So the black RTV is all you have on the back? No gasket?
 
I have used RTV on the block and where the end seals go. It takes a lot, but it works good.
 
PhillH said:
Well this is perfect timing. I literally just 5 min ago fixed why I had to pull the engine completely out of the car, oversize oil pan so no room for anything in the car. The one piece gasket I bought for something like $30 or $35 fit horrible, I didn't have the experience to know how bad it was even though it was obvious, I thought it would tighten up and seal, it's expensive right? NO, I had to cut off about a half inch around the front corners and fill with RTV, then the rear was so ill fitting I completely cut it out and went with black rtv instead! Now I have a Kevco oil 6 quart oil pan but I don't think it is the issue because it lines up with the block, it was definitely the one piece gasket.
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Trying to use a 360 gasket on a 340 maybe?
 
I just got the pan back in last nite as well as the header..Pas. side back on and both headers tightened back up....What a pain in the a"*& .......Got the center link and strg components left tonite.Start it up for awhile and hoping no more leaks......:happy1::coffee2::coffee2::coffee2::coffee2: Soon I will know.
 
Nite Moves said:
I just got the pan back in last nite as well as the header..Pas. side back on and both headers tightened back up....What a pain in the a"*& .......Got the center link and strg components left tonite.Start it up for awhile and hoping no more leaks......:happy1::coffee2::coffee2::coffee2::coffee2: Soon I will know.
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Glad ya got it buttonex back up Ed! I would let oil pan sit/cure before adding oil (24 hrs).
 
Milodon 41007 is in the catalog and on Jegs and Summit but is for the 360 pan....(yes, I can use Google! LOL)
 
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