Oil pump driveshaft bushing replacement

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VonCramp

VonCramp

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It looks like I will need to replace my oil pump driveshaft and bushing. I discovered my oil pump driveshaft is galled causing the distributor to wiggle around while cranking. Is it possible to remove the bushing and replace with the 340 still in the car? If not, anyone have a 12 gauge shotgun or some C4 I can use? I am ready to put this '69 Cuda to rest. I can sincerely say this car has been the biggest pain in the *** I have ever worked on.
 
You need to take it to a machine shop, they can probably remove and drive one in while the car is parked in the shop. They need to be reamed once they are in and the special installation tool itself expands the bushing once it is in place
C-3053.jpg

. You may be able to pull oil pump and drive old one out bottom and then drive in new one from top, but getting it to seat (expand) in there and then reamed would be a little dicey. Bummer. Was this causing the erratic ignition? Just go back to points......more forgiving. Some guys use an old distributor shaft with a nut welded to it. Roughed up (with a grinder) jut under the nut, Put the bushing on the shaft up to the nut, drive the new bushing into the block and then turn the shaft to burnish/ream the bushing, retract shaft and test fit new distributor, if its still way tighg, put old one in and turn some more....
 
Thanks Pishta! I do have an extra shaft from one of the four Mopar distributors I have tried to get this car running with. 67DartGt... You are not funny. Happy motoring. Not.
 
pishta said:
You need to take it to a machine shop, they can probably remove and drive one in while the car is parked in the shop. They need to be reamed once they are in and the special installation tool itself expands the bushing once it is in place
C-3053.jpg

. You may be able to pull oil pump and drive old one out bottom and then drive in new one from top, but getting it to seat (expand) in there and then reamed would be a little dicey. Bummer. Was this causing the erratic ignition? Just go back to points......more forgiving. Some guys use an old distributor shaft with a nut welded to it. Roughed up (with a grinder) jut under the nut, Put the bushing on the shaft up to the nut, drive the new bushing into the block and then turn the shaft to burnish/ream the bushing, retract shaft and test fit new distributor, if its still way tighg, put old one in and turn some more....
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Car currently has suspension out while I am doing a disc brake conversion. I do not know if this is what is stopping the car from running or my ignition problems. I sure hope this is it. Before the comments start rolling in from other members. The 340 was running before I started taking the suspension out. I am really disapointed in this design by Mopar. I am guessing not replacing the bushing is really out of the question as to the fact it is probably in fairly bad shape?
 
I made a tool to pull the bushing. It consists of a 3/8" diameter by 14" carriage bolt, a large diameter washer, and the slide from my smaller slide hammer. I ground a notch in the bottom of the threaded end no thicker than the bushing. Slide the bolt through the washer, then the hammer, then stick the threaded end w/ the notch into the old bushing. Push it to the side so the notch catches the bottom of the bushing, and pull it with the slide hammer. Cost about $3 and works on any Mopar V8...lol.
 
moper said:
I made a tool to pull the bushing. It consists of a 3/8" diameter by 14" carriage bolt, a large diameter washer, and the slide from my smaller slide hammer. I ground a notch in the bottom of the threaded end no thicker than the bushing. Slide the bolt through the washer, then the hammer, then stick the threaded end w/ the notch into the old bushing. Push it to the side so the notch catches the bottom of the bushing, and pull it with the slide hammer. Cost about $3 and works on any Mopar V8...lol.
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Now that is the kind of advice I can use!!! Thank you very much!
 
moper said:
I made a tool to pull the bushing. It consists of a 3/8" diameter by 14" carriage bolt, a large diameter washer, and the slide from my smaller slide hammer. I ground a notch in the bottom of the threaded end no thicker than the bushing. Slide the bolt through the washer, then the hammer, then stick the threaded end w/ the notch into the old bushing. Push it to the side so the notch catches the bottom of the bushing, and pull it with the slide hammer. Cost about $3 and works on any Mopar V8...lol.
Click to expand...

Hey Dave could you take a pic or 2 of it and post it to our home made tool thread? Sounds like it would be a great addition. Here's the url to the home made tool thread

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=58818

Thanks
 
I think the melling IS72 comes with the shaft and bushing for about $35.00. Your local parts stores will likely carry it. I do not think i've seen a bushing so worn the car wouldn't run! A first for me....


VonCramp said:
It looks like I will need to replace my oil pump driveshaft and bushing. I discovered my oil pump driveshaft is galled causing the distributor to wiggle around while cranking. Is it possible to remove the bushing and replace with the 340 still in the car? If not, anyone have a 12 gauge shotgun or some C4 I can use? I am ready to put this '69 Cuda to rest. I can sincerely say this car has been the biggest pain in the *** I have ever worked on.
Click to expand...
 
Rocky_JS said:
I think the melling IS72 comes with the shaft and bushing for about $35.00. Your local parts stores will likely carry it. I do not think i've seen a bushing so worn the car wouldn't run! A first for me....
Click to expand...
I am just guessing that is my problem. The distributor literally wobbles back and forth as the motor cranks over. I am thinking it must affect the signal as the distributor rotates. I sure hope this is it because it does have fuel and fire.
 
yes all small blocks are the same


with the distributor out, in your hand, holding the case and spinning it , does it wobble? even a little? can you physically move the distributor shaft side to side? the only other thing it can be is the oil pump drive. the drive runs off the cam, the cam cant be bent . in all my years ive never seen the drive bushing worn to the point the drive itself is coming out of the gear drive on the cam. not even on 200,000 mile engines. are you sure the distributor is fully seated in the block? do you have oil pressure?

sorry if ive missed everything already

take a flashlight or whatever and take a look at the bushing, does it looks oblong or wallowed out? if you had a pic of the oil pump drive it would tell us a thousand words
 
73AbodEE said:
yes all small blocks are the same


with the distributor out, in your hand, holding the case and spinning it , does it wobble? even a little? can you physically move the distributor shaft side to side? the only other thing it can be is the oil pump drive. the drive runs off the cam, the cam cant be bent . in all my years ive never seen the drive bushing worn to the point the drive itself is coming out of the gear drive on the cam. not even on 200,000 mile engines. are you sure the distributor is fully seated in the block? do you have oil pressure?

sorry if ive missed everything already

take a flashlight or whatever and take a look at the bushing, does it looks oblong or wallowed out? if you had a pic of the oil pump drive it would tell us a thousand words
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Due to the extreme galling on oil pump shaft I am thinking the bushing is extremely worn. I have 60 psi while cranking the motor. Is it possible to post pictures using an iPhone? Anyone in the Texas/Houst
 
back to the galling on the shaft. I think you're chasing a ghost as to your no start problem.

The distributor itself should compensate since it's bushed. If there is play (not up and down but left and right) in the distributor then it is bad.

you have spark
you have fuel
do you have good compression?
do you have fouled plugs?


VonCramp said:
Due to the extreme galling on oil pump shaft I am thinking the bushing is extremely worn. I have 60 psi while cranking the motor. Is it possible to post pictures using an iPhone? Anyone in the Texas/Houst
Click to expand...
 
I have seen someone forget to install the bushing altogether, you can bet that caused some walk around.
 
Rocky_JS said:
back to the galling on the shaft. I think you're chasing a ghost as to your no start problem.

The distributor itself should compensate since it's bushed. If there is play (not up and down but left and right) in the distributor then it is bad.

you have spark
you have fuel
do you have good compression?
do you have fouled plugs?
Click to expand...

^^Totally agree^^. No matter how loose the bushing and oil pump drive shaft are it won't cause the dist. to wobble around like you say it's doing Von Cramp. The dist. has bushings in it and the tolerance to the dist. shaft and bushings are only a couple thousandths at the most to the only way you will see the distributor wobble is the bushings in it are completely shot or the shaft is bent. I have seen several rebuilt distributors with bent shafts to that wouldn't surprise me.
 
understood in that case the distributor was the bushing and likely in a new motor,

His issue - is a galling of the oil pump drive shaft, which is fairly normal to a degree. Nor do I believe the source of his problem. I do not see him spending money and the effort in removing the bushing/ shaft to come to the same result. If in fact the oil shaft bushing is worn to the extent that the distributor is rocking then the distributor IS also bad.
The reluctor air gap off the top of my head is about 6 thou checked with a brass feeler gauge. But he also claims he has good spark which kind of negates this scenario to a point.


eightaxles said:
I have seen someone forget to install the bushing altogether, you can bet that caused some walk around.
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fishy68 said:
^^Totally agree^^. No matter how loose the bushing and oil pump drive shaft are it won't cause the dist. to wobble around like you say it's doing Von Cramp. The dist. has bushings in it and the tolerance to the dist. shaft and bushings are only a couple thousandths at the most to the only way you will see the distributor wobble is the bushings in it are completely shot or the shaft is bent. I have seen several rebuilt distributors with bent shafts to that wouldn't surprise me.
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I ordered the distributor from a reputable shop. I really wish I wasexaggerating the wobbling, but it's there. My Mallory Unilte did the same thing too. I am at a loss as to what is going on. Really sucks because the car is so close to being on the road after 20 years, maybe longer.
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VonCramp said:
I ordered the distributor from a reputable shop. I really wish I wasexaggerating the wobbling, but it's there. My Mallory Unilte did the same thing too. I am at a loss as to what is going on. Really sucks because the car is so close to being on the road after 20 years, maybe longer.
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I am more than happy to make videos of anything y'all would like to see that may help in tracking down my problem. The only obstacle is this sight doesn't let my iPhone post them, or I can't seem to figure out a way. I would gladly email videos if anyone is interested in viewing my crazy 340. I love this car, but I am getting to the point where I jussi don't think it wants to live.
 
Ok with the wobble you say is present. Is the reluctor gear hitting the pickup in the dist when cranking it over? I also just sent a PM reply back to you.


VonCramp said:
I ordered the distributor from a reputable shop. I really wish I wasexaggerating the wobbling, but it's there. My Mallory Unilte did the same thing too. I am at a loss as to what is going on. Really sucks because the car is so close to being on the road after 20 years, maybe longer.
.
Click to expand...
 
Rocky_JS said:
Ok with the wobble you say is present. Is the reluctor gear hitting the pickup in the dist when cranking it over? I also just sent a PM reply back to you.
Click to expand...
Here's a thought... Since my other Barracuda was hit so hard from behind and totaled, is it possible that the cam plate or thrust plate (not sure what it is called) has busted and the cam is somehow shifting in the motor? I pulled the intermediate shaft and it doesn't appear to be bent. Definitley galled up, but no visible bend. I rolled it on the edge of a very straight 4x4 block of wood. It didn't lift or walk at all.
 
extremely doubtful pretty thick steel with 4 bolt holding it in close proximity. If that happened you would more likely have broken block. I would remove this from being your problem and check it off the list as Ok.
 
I set the timing again and dropped the int. shaft back in. Installed my old original electronic dist. back from when it was in the 68. It worked fine in the car even after it was totaled. I installed the plug wires and the #1 plug. Turned the key and car fired right up. I gave the carb another squirt and it kinda fired and then died. Distributor is back to wobbling when I crank it and the car isn't even trying to fire now. I did notice the gear is halfway past the slot on the shaft sticking up. In other words it is not flush with the top of the shaft but actually a little above it. Is the shaft perhaps climbing the cam gear as the motor rotates knocking everything out???
 
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