Oil pump driveshaft bushing replacement

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If the engine block wasn't busted in the wreck there isn't a problem with the cam plate from the wreck. Sounds like you have a couple junk distributors to me. No way should they ever rock like that. You have tested the ballast resistor or tried bypassing it altogether, right?
 
back to the galling on the shaft. I think you're chasing a ghost as to your no start problem.

The distributor itself should compensate since it's bushed. If there is play (not up and down but left and right) in the distributor then it is bad.

you have spark
you have fuel
do you have good compression?
do you have fouled plugs?


I agree but why bother--sometimes its best if folks learn stuff the hard way :glasses7:
 
If the engine block wasn't busted in the wreck there isn't a problem with the cam plate from the wreck. Sounds like you have a couple junk distributors to me. No way should they ever rock like that. You have tested the ballast resistor or tried bypassing it altogether, right?
There might be a good reason it hasn't ran in 20 years
 
I am more than happy to make videos of anything y'all would like to see that may help in tracking down my problem. The only obstacle is this sight doesn't let my iPhone post them, or I can't seem to figure out a way. I would gladly email videos if anyone is interested in viewing my crazy 340. I love this car, but I am getting to the point where I jussi don't think it wants to live.
good luck dont give up yet. when you get her done she will treat you well
 
naaa the dist keeps it from doing that (climbing) and at the most it would be a few degrees not enough to make a difference. is it still getting spark? or just not starting?
You did get it to start so heading in right direction. Have you checked ballast, coil, ign module and wiring?



I set the timing again and dropped the int. shaft back in. Installed my old original electronic dist. back from when it was in the 68. It worked fine in the car even after it was totaled. I installed the plug wires and the #1 plug. Turned the key and car fired right up. I gave the carb another squirt and it kinda fired and then died. Distributor is back to wobbling when I crank it and the car isn't even trying to fire now. I did notice the gear is halfway past the slot on the shaft sticking up. In other words it is not flush with the top of the shaft but actually a little above it. Is the shaft perhaps climbing the cam gear as the motor rotates knocking everything out???
 
There might be a good reason it hasn't ran in 20 years
That might be funny if u actually knew what I meant. The car I bought ('69 'Cuda) had been stripped of everything before I bought it by the previous owner. I have had the car almost a year now. When I brought it home it was barely a rolling shell. No doors. No wiring. No interior. No fenders. No hood, etc. The only bolts on the car were the ones for the u bolts on the shackles and anything holding the front suspension together. So, having never put one of these cars together I completely assembled this car down to every last nut and bolt in my driveway while only earning twelve bucks an hour. So, forgive me if I have had some issues with the motor. If you doubt anything I have said here I can put you in contact with the original owner, not that I need to justify myself to you. People like you are the reason more people build Chevys. I would appreciate it if you would just not bother commenting on my threads, but instead of doing something constructive I am sure you would much prefer to be a faceless, witty, no fact checking hero of the a-body forum.
 
good luck dont give up yet. when you get her done she will treat you well
Hopefully better than some of the people with their clever insults have here. My best friend who is literally a master certified ASE mechanic has been scratching his head after trying to sort this thing out. Fixed the intermediate shaft. That was the wobble problem. Now I have to figure out why my brand new Mallory ballast resistor didn't hold up. Thanks for the words of encouragement. I am not going to give up. I think DodgeFreak is just jealous because my factory big block 'Cuda is rarer than his ride.
 
If the engine block wasn't busted in the wreck there isn't a problem with the cam plate from the wreck. Sounds like you have a couple junk distributors to me. No way should they ever rock like that. You have tested the ballast resistor or tried bypassing it altogether, right?
I think you were right on the money with the junk distributors. One was a used Mallory. The second was my el cheapo imitation HEI off of eBay. However it was a bad intermediate shaft. The only thing I haven't sorted out is why the new ballast resistor seems to have gone bad. 15 volts in and only 5 coming out. I know there is a drop, but that seems really low. Am I just crazy? How much voltage should be at the positive side of the coil? I am sorry if these are obvious questions, but the wiring in my 'Cuda seems to be tempermental. I just want to do it all the right way. Thanks for taking the time to offer your help!
 
I agree but why bother--sometimes its best if folks learn stuff the hard way :glasses7:
Some folks also just take the easy way and offer smart-assy comments instead of actually being constructive. Even if it is an answer to a seemingly obvious question. When I do get this car on the road I will remember the folks who did try to help and will pass that knowledge along to other new Mopar enthusiast. At the very least I will not spend my time trying to make someone regret seeking out answers to questions that may or may not be obvious. BTW... My 340 came out of a totaled Barracuda that was hit so hard the car ended up 30 feet away in my neighbor's yard. That is why I have ruled nothing out on this motor, nor hesitated asking questions, dumb or not. This 'Cuda being one of 300 and something big block a-bodies for 1969 I am trying to be as well informed as possible. If you don't have anything to offer but dumb comments to my dumb questions then who's the one really wasting their time here?
 
I think you were right on the money with the junk distributors. One was a used Mallory. The second was my el cheapo imitation HEI off of eBay. However it was a bad intermediate shaft. The only thing I haven't sorted out is why the new ballast resistor seems to have gone bad. 15 volts in and only 5 coming out. I know there is a drop, but that seems really low. Am I just crazy? How much voltage should be at the positive side of the coil? I am sorry if these are obvious questions, but the wiring in my 'Cuda seems to be tempermental. I just want to do it all the right way. Thanks for taking the time to offer your help!

There are all kinds of different ohms ballasts. You're right, 5v out is crazy but the 15 in - that's crazy too... Where are you measuring it? Normally (engine running) you've got around 13-14 at the battery adn maybe a little higher at the stud of the alternator. But - with the great Mopar wiring it's ususally down to around 11 at the keyed hot side fo the ballast, and around 8-9 on the coil side. This is normally because of the bulkhead connector. Unless yours is brand new (I'm thinking distinct possibility) it's a good idea to pull the connector appart and clean the male and female sides, and put it together with some dielectric grease. That will minimize the voltage drop accross that connection. You will want to find a ballast with somewhere around .5-.7 ohms. That should knock downt he battery voltage down to around 9v. When a resistor goes bad, it doesnt get more resistance. It simply fails and there's infinate resistance. Otherwise it's good but the ohms are too high.
 
There are all kinds of different ohms ballasts. You're right, 5v out is crazy but the 15 in - that's crazy too... Where are you measuring it? Normally (engine running) you've got around 13-14 at the battery adn maybe a little higher at the stud of the alternator. But - with the great Mopar wiring it's ususally down to around 11 at the keyed hot side fo the ballast, and around 8-9 on the coil side. This is normally because of the bulkhead connector. Unless yours is brand new (I'm thinking distinct possibility) it's a good idea to pull the connector appart and clean the male and female sides, and put it together with some dielectric grease. That will minimize the voltage drop accross that connection. You will want to find a ballast with somewhere around .5-.7 ohms. That should knock downt he battery voltage down to around 9v. When a resistor goes bad, it doesnt get more resistance. It simply fails and there's infinate resistance. Otherwise it's good but the ohms are too high.
Sounds good. I was measuring it at the feed side post on the resistor with my voltmeter on the 20 setting. I am using an optima red battery mounted in trunk if that helps. Thanks again!
 
Seems even less realistic a reading given the battery is in the trunk and the cables are so long. Assuming that is accurate you probably have a 1.0-1.2 ohm resistor there. If you go to a parts store like a Napa or Car Quest (a jobber store - not an Advanced or Auto Zone) you can look through the catalogs for one. There are a few that are much lower resistance and won't take so much off.
 

Seems even less realistic a reading given the battery is in the trunk and the cables are so long. Assuming that is accurate you probably have a 1.0-1.2 ohm resistor there. If you go to a parts store like a Napa or Car Quest (a jobber store - not an Advanced or Auto Zone) you can look through the catalogs for one. There are a few that are much lower resistance and won't take so much off.
Will do. The one I have installed is a Mallory resistor. It came with my Mallory Unilite I was using til it quit. Just pulled the resistor and found two small cracks running up across the resistor. Time to replace!!!
 
Sounds like your volt meter may be off too cause like Dave said there's no way you should be seeing 15 volts with the engine shut off and the battery all the way back in the trunk. If the meter is reading too much that 5 volts it's telling you at the coil may only be 3'ish volts. I believe Mallory resistors are 1.0 ohm and it's apparently got pretty hot if the ceramic on the back is cracked. I think you'll be well off doing what Dave said and find a correct resistor. While your at it you might as well buy 2 and stick the spare in the glove box cause them dang things will just die sometimes without warning. Usually when your 40 miles from home.
 
You may also want to run a 10gage wire from the alternator stud directly back to the battery's positive terminal through the cutoff switch.
 
I really just dont get it. The distributer housing has or should have very little clearnce in the hole it sits in. If the thing is bolted down it shouldn't move. Since there is a small clearance there and a rubber O ring, if it wasn't bolted down it might move. Still, if the entire distributer is moving it may not be changing the air gap.
Heck maybe the keeper is bent so its not hoding the distributer down tightly.
again, I just dont get it.
 
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