famous bob
mopar misfit
It can, and has. A stock hemi could pump a stock pan dry at drag racing revs, in 10 seconds. Tom Hoover pointed that out to me.
Oil pump hell.
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justinp61
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The OP either has oil sucking to the intake ports due to mis matched intake/heads or has lost ring seal. Smoking going down the road is not from valve seals, some guys don't run them on race engines and they don't smoke going down the track.
I have never had a HV pump suck a pan dry, however I did have a 440 that I built and used a stock pan and a high pressure pump and had to run an extra quart of oil as the pressure would fluctuate other wise. On cold start up it would go well past 100 psi until it warmed up.
I have never had a HV pump suck a pan dry, however I did have a 440 that I built and used a stock pan and a high pressure pump and had to run an extra quart of oil as the pressure would fluctuate other wise. On cold start up it would go well past 100 psi until it warmed up.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
That wasn't from a HV pump. The pans were too small on all the big blocks. They will retain that much oil just around the crank. A standard volume pump will do the same thing.
The symptom is there, but the cause is not the pump, the pump pumps exactly what the engine demands to maintain oil pressure set by the relief. The engine demand
doesn't change because You bolted a HV pump to it. BUT, if the pump has too much excess capacity, it will bypass a lot more oil thru & back to the sump. This can result
in too much aeration and contribute to increased oil wrapped up in windage around the crank. Poor drain-back can plague other brands as oil gets trapped in the heads and
valley, but that is not one of Mopars weaknesses.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
I've never seen an OEM pump that puts lil back to the pan. All of them I've seen by pass back to the suction side of the pump.
I still would like to see a picture, of his knowledge of crankcase ventilation.,It's that damn simplistic.
famous bob
mopar misfit
"A pump will pump what the engine demands" ? LOL A pump will pump what it`s going to pump, no matter what the engine needs, one way or another !
I've ran HV HP pumps on my DD's for years and haven't sucked the pan dry...
I hope you read this and understand that others have indicated what the possible problems are. So far, you want to waste time & money replacing a oil pump. Which is not the problem.
Smoke out of the exhaust, dirty spark plugs, oil film IN the exhaust pipes, are the listed problems. The possible causes are already listed.
Bad piston ring sealing
Bad intake to cylinder head sealing
Oil getting past the valves by way of the guides which is due to the valve seals allowing oil past them. They are most likely dry rotted from sitting.
I have NEVER heard of pressure waves created from an oil pump, much less issues from that.
Now, go and pull your valve covers and intake. Check the cylinders for poor wear & scores. Take note of the intake manifolds runners at the cylinder head, look for black/blackened oil residue. Check the cylinder heads valves seals. Replace as needed. Reseal and have fun.
That would be true if the pump had no relief valve.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Not to hijack this thread Rusty...but how is little Pooter doing? Got any new pictures????
Growin like a weed. I will find the thread I posted and put some updated pics there later today.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Back to the original problem..... OP, yes, the pressure relief valve could be an issue. The pumping of oil when in the vat may occur even with an open pressure relief valve since you don't have any back pressure with the pump out of the engine, but once in the engine with some back pressure, an open relief valve would come into play.
The filter only has a bypass valve that opens and allows oil to bypass the filter element when pressure drop in the filter element exceeds approximately 8-10 psi.
Is your drill running at around 400-500 rpm? And you ARE turning CW, right? (I suspect you are but...) When the pump pressure builds in the engine, then the drill will load down noticeably.
The filter only has a bypass valve that opens and allows oil to bypass the filter element when pressure drop in the filter element exceeds approximately 8-10 psi.
Is your drill running at around 400-500 rpm? And you ARE turning CW, right? (I suspect you are but...) When the pump pressure builds in the engine, then the drill will load down noticeably.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
You might lightly snug the pump bolts then drop in the intergear then torque the pump bolts. this'll give a better hex alignment. it is a good plan to in addition install the dist & its clamp to lock in the intergear in case you forget that the intergear can drop out & hit the floor if you flip the eng to tighten the pump bolts. I hate stupid mistakes.
No, a pump delivers the volume needed to reach the pressure the relief valve is set at, after that it bypasses....it's that simple. If putting a higher volume pump increases
the volume actually used, it means the stock or previous pump was inadequate for the engines demand, if the result is an empty oil pan...You have either poor return, too
much windage, or the pan is too small for the job. The engine may have a high demand by design, wide tolerances, or a operational/conditional problem. The HEMI return
system leaves a bit to be desired in stock form, even in some modified forms.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
And or about 10 other things.
I went to sell a Coronet that smoked starting about 2 minuets after fire up and smoke like a pig for about 10.
The valve cover gaskets were seeping down between the heads and manifold and getting the inside of the manifold wet.
There are actually a lot of possibilities is the point.
Especially with modern thinner oils like synthetics for example.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
There are questions that need to be answered to have a decent diagnostic, like exactly when and under what conditions does it smoke?
All the time right from cold fire up?
For the first 10 minutes?
After 10 minutes?
Only cold, or warmed?
Only at light cruise?
Just a couple little things.
All the time right from cold fire up?
For the first 10 minutes?
After 10 minutes?
Only cold, or warmed?
Only at light cruise?
Just a couple little things.
famous bob
mopar misfit
I agree w/ this post, but the hemi has return holes for the oil going back to the pan, along w/ overflow around the intake runners and pushrod openings. the 440 has only the overflow around the pushrod openings .
Which is great, but this is a 273.
famous bob
mopar misfit
the hemi pans came 1 qt bigger, stock.
famous bob
mopar misfit
still isn't going to pump what the engine needs unless everything is co ordinated to work together/ example, worn out pump on a hi h.p. engine . How did we get on big blocks anyway ? LOL
Right, the upshot is,...had lots of oil pressure......replaced oil pump..........can't get new pump to prime or build pressure.......either the relief valve is stuck or the pump
is screwed somehow. Even some "crazy misalignment issue" would still be developing pressure even if it was bleeding some off, it would have to be drastic to not. And
since it is not a B-RB-Hemi, it's not a D'oh!! moment not using a reversible drill. The only things left are His drill is ssloooow, or engine ain't crankin' fast either, but He
ran/primed it in oil out of the car and said it pumped like mad. Bypass valves in oil filters just bleed oil past the filter media when it becomes an obstruction to flow, &
anti drain-back valves are for just that, & I've not seen one stay glued & hold back oil pressure ever. Unless something is wrong w/the pump body casting that is keeping
the pump far away from seating face to face on the mounting surface, shouldn't be hard to spot that......
is screwed somehow. Even some "crazy misalignment issue" would still be developing pressure even if it was bleeding some off, it would have to be drastic to not. And
since it is not a B-RB-Hemi, it's not a D'oh!! moment not using a reversible drill. The only things left are His drill is ssloooow, or engine ain't crankin' fast either, but He
ran/primed it in oil out of the car and said it pumped like mad. Bypass valves in oil filters just bleed oil past the filter media when it becomes an obstruction to flow, &
anti drain-back valves are for just that, & I've not seen one stay glued & hold back oil pressure ever. Unless something is wrong w/the pump body casting that is keeping
the pump far away from seating face to face on the mounting surface, shouldn't be hard to spot that......
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
Probably not related to your problem but I would definitely get rid of that POS Fram filter and use at least a Purolator or Wix.
Or the best option... order some industrial-grade Baldwin filters from your local Grainger supply. I think they run $7 a piece and are made in USA.
Or the best option... order some industrial-grade Baldwin filters from your local Grainger supply. I think they run $7 a piece and are made in USA.
Make sure the oil pump is seated correctly on the main cap...sometimes they can end up cockeyed...(LOL)...and went tighten down it will crack the housing on the pump and no oil pressure....
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