Okay, I can’t get my 360La engine to start

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So then, brand new means charged and good? Don't assume anything.
 
Tyler West said:
How do I test it?
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Well, you might be able to find a parts store that can bench test it for you and see what it is drawing for power.

It would probably just be easier to buy a new replacement starter and go from there.

It the battery is good and you are sure of it, then the starter is defective and it is drawing to much power to operate and needs to be replaced.
 
Ddaddy said:
Well, you might be able to find a parts store that can bench test it for you and see what it is drawing for power.

It would probably just be easier to buy a new replacement starter and go from there.

It the battery is good and you are sure of it, then the starter is defective and it is drawing to much power to operate and needs to be replaced.
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If it’s drawing too much power, that would allow it to turn over but to slowly? And when I turn it over more than 3 times the battery doesn’t have enough power to turn it over and just buzzes or makes a high pitch noise. I have to then recharge the battery then Try again. And nothing every time. I get 2 or 3 cranks and it’s done. Took the battery to autozone, even they said it was good. When it does start it’s after that battery was fully charged and I get lucky and it fires up the first or second try. I’m losing my mind.
 
Tyler West said:
If it’s drawing too much power, that would allow it to turn over but to slowly? And when I turn it over more than 3 times the battery doesn’t have enough power to turn it over and just buzzes or makes a high pitch noise. I have to then recharge the battery then Try again. And nothing every time. I get 2 or 3 cranks and it’s done. Took the battery to autozone, even they said it was good. When it does start it’s after that battery was fully charged and I get lucky and it fires up the first or second try. I’m losing my mind.
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Yes, your starter is shot. Get a new one.
 
get a jumper cable and run it from the starter to the negative battery post

try that ones

(i was helping a buddy with a hot rod that had the same issue, and it turned out to be lacking ground wires)
 
I deal with goofy electrical problems all the time on the job. Old school basic mechanical logic is often the answer with basic tools. Start eliminating variables. Load test the battery, not just a voltage test. If you are 100% sure the battery is good move on to the next option. I would pull the starter away from the mounting location and use a set of jumper cables to offer it another ground. Crank the system and see if it functions without it having to drive the flywheel. If it functions fine, consider the possibility of a binding problem at the starter drive flywheel contact point. If it does not function, disconnect the power source going to the starter and use a jumper cable again to energize the starter. By doing this you are eliminating the cars factory high amp power source. If the problem goes away look for a partially grounded power cable or pinch or cut in the cable. If you are lost call me @ 847-323-8186 and I can talk you through the steps and help you trouble shoot it over the phone.
-Dan
 
Tyler West said:
If it’s drawing too much power, that would allow it to turn over but to slowly? And when I turn it over more than 3 times the battery doesn’t have enough power to turn it over and just buzzes or makes a high pitch noise. I have to then recharge the battery then Try again. And nothing every time. I get 2 or 3 cranks and it’s done. Took the battery to autozone, even they said it was good. When it does start it’s after that battery was fully charged and I get lucky and it fires up the first or second try. I’m losing my mind.
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Hook up a volt meter to the battery and crank the engine... If the voltage drops below 9.6 volts, then the starter is drawing too much power if your battery has been tested and good....
If the voltage drops below 9.6 while cranking, the starter is bad...

Also make sure all connections are clean and tight...
 
Ive bought several new batterys that were junk. Test good but under load not. Otherwise starter/solenoid or relay.
 
And then there's paint and/or oxidation.
The electrons have to get back to the battery. The electron-flow is; battery to cable-clamp,clamp to cable, cable to relay-stud,new cable with 2 ends, to starter-stud, thru the starter to the bellhousing,bellhouse to engine, thru the engine and out the ground cable,to the ground-clamp, and back into the battery. I count 13 connections. I have seen oxidation and paint between the starter and the bellhouse drive a mechanic crazy.

diymirage has a great idea,
except I would add use both cables; one from battery positive to starter stud, and the other like he says from starter case back to battery negative; now you have eliminated all but the 4 cable connections.

And then there is the switched side
 
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