Old D/C Hustle Stuff Mechanical 6 Pack 4782/4783 carb build

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EL5DEMON340 said:
anyone interested in a filter for the norms Tri Power air cleaner if i make a few extra?
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Maybe depending on cost.

Simple green and a crock pot, never heard of that but it looks like it worked good.
Why did you not just use regular carburetor soak?
 
I'm going to try a ford fa48, if that don't work the baldwin pa632 filter. there is no filter for this cleaner, and even a 1 3/4" element might be close i took some pics of demons with this set up and it looked like they were running even shorter 1" maybe 1.5" tall k&n filters, i'm more into performance so if the filter holds back the car i will make a setup. The new carb soak is week and an old gallon i had leaked through the cheap can making a smelly mess!
 

I agree with the new carb soak being crap.
I just used a new can of it this week on 2 jeep carbs, worked ok but still alot of cleaning, my old can of the good stuff also started leaking.

Got my wife on the hunt for a used crock pot, last resort walmart has a 7 qt oval one for 24.00.

Going to try the simple green on a q-jet that came attached to a corvette I bought today.
 
Try goodwill or something like that, I mixed 50/50 with hot water then add it to the pot let it heat fully on hi for 30 or 40 min. Then add the carb and parts to the pot . I let mine soak for an hour and a half or so. Then rinse well in hot water and then let it soak in coll water for a minute and blow out with air.
 
Started it up yesterday !!!! started right up, adjusted timing, idle, and end carbs throttle position, vacuum came way up with the dual plane from 7.5 to about 12, idles nice and steady at about 950 in neutral.
still need to retorque everything and set floats. take care of some slight fuel weeps.
 
had to dump the log could not get it to stop weeping no-mater what i tried! took it out for a longer drive. when the secondary's open its like being shot out of a cannon!! very wicked!! only problem now is coming to a stop the idle dips down to 500/400 rpm or so it has not died. idles fine in park at 950 drive 850, timing is at 20 initial, float leval is just at bottom of sight hole.
 

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Nice job on the fuel line, way safer and better looking than that fuel log....great thread :glasses7:
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
had to dump the log could not get it to stop weeping no-mater what i tried! took it out for a longer drive. when the secondary's open its like being shot out of a cannon!! very wicked!! only problem now is coming to a stop the idle dips down to 500/400 rpm or so it has not died. idles fine in park at 950 drive 850, timing is at 20 initial, float leval is just at bottom of sight hole.
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Outboards like to be a touch higher, so might your center carb. Make sure your power valve is half the idle vacuum. Use an anti-slosh tube in all the carbs, small plastic Holley part. Check for ANY vacuum leaks. Are you running vacuum advance? If so be sure it is hooked to manifold vacuum. Insulate your fuel line around the motor with some kind of reflective heat sleeve. Are you running a thermostat? What temp is it? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on it? What is the fuel pressure?
 
Going to move them up to just under half way up the sight plug. Engine runs about 190, it's a MSD with no vacuum advance, 20 initial, 30 total. I'm pretty sure it's lean on stops, if I just blip the throttle it picks up and idles fine just the tiny bit from the squirter helps it
 
I love the looks of that fuel log, great idea!!! (although insulating it doesn't sound like a bad idea at all) but those VC decals gotta go, they look cheesy and ruin the ovrall look imho.
 
The fuel log is history, could not get the Chinese log to seal. It will have the stock type line and tee setup you see above. As for the decal I'm not feeling the love for them myself so I think I'm going to ditch them. I would like to run some old school pro/stock or cal custom type finned covers or something out of the ordinary !!!
 
Looks like this setup needs to idle at about 1,000 rpm in park and the idle screws about 2.5 turns out I dropped the float level to just dribble out the sight holes. Haven't drove it a lot but the plugs look like they are cleaning up from the single plane 4 corner idle 750 dp carb I had on there before . This setup is faster and more responsive than the old single plane 4 bbl setup. The V/C decals are history.
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
coming to a stop the idle dips down to 500/400 rpm or so .
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Many cars back then made use of a dashpot / dampener on the throttle to dampen (slow) the last bit that the throttle closed. You might keep that in mind. I think Ferd used to be "big" on those

throtledamper005.jpg


What is? I missed it? The rest of the build?

CID, head work, cam, compression?

Great stuff. You've put a lot of work into that
 
Basic 360 ..home ported j heads, 11.25 cr. 200 psi cranking pressure. Solid comp 244/252 @.050, 520/540 lift cam. Comp roller rockers. 727 4,400 flash 9.5" dynamic converter, 3:55 gear tall nitto drag radials 275/60/15
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
Basic 360 ..home ported j heads, 11.25 cr. 200 psi cranking pressure. Solid comp 244/252 @.050, 520/540 lift cam. Comp roller rockers. 727 4,400 flash 9.5" dynamic converter, 3:55 gear tall nitto drag radials 275/60/15
Click to expand...

What are you burning for fuel? Mine has 225 psi cranking, run 22 initial and 36 total timing, and it's got to have the 101 unleaded they sell at the pump out here.....at $7.87 a gallon. That's still cheap by race gas standards, but there's no replacing high compression for that snappy throttle response and that sound!

I only usually burn less than a tank or less a month(30 gallon tank), so the price difference between the good stuff and premium at $4.35 a gallon is not that drastic.
 
93 from one of the good company's Shell ... Mobil. If I was to race I would mix or run 100 for sure.
 
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